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31st July 2014, 12:57 PM
#1
Gq clutch issue
Hey fellas have a gq ute 42td lately the clutch feels funny, have to release fully before acceleration not much pedal left, replaced slave cylinder few months back but is using a bit of fluid so thinking replacing master and bleeding it? Seems to be down on power too clutch just feels odd, is due for service so gona do that when I get home next week but clutch hasn't actually slipped yet, and I Duno whether to bite the bullet and buy a new clutch or squeeze life out of current one, opinions appreciated thanks.
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31st July 2014 12:57 PM
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31st July 2014, 03:29 PM
#2
Legendary
check the flexible hose that goes to the slave cylinder this went on mine and i had to replace it while i was there i put a new clutch and slave cylinder on it
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31st July 2014, 07:39 PM
#3
Expert
G'day Mark,
reckon if you're loosing fluid that's pretty sure to be where your problem is. It's really a matter of following all the lines/rods from your replaced slave back to the pedal. Pedal because i've had a knackered master which leaked invisibly back down the push rod through the fire wall onto the pedal.
Once that's fixed, if there's still a problem, look elsewhere.
Sold my old 4.2diesel at over 400K (with a lot of 2.0t caravan pulling) without a sign of clutch trouble. Numerous masters and slaves though.
Luck,
Col
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31st July 2014, 10:47 PM
#4
Cheers fellas will degrease everything and check when home there is noticeable fluid in bay and it's never leaked much of anything so will check all lines. Cars done 580k but everything is unknown bit of a bitser so who knows how many ks clutch is on I do like a very heavy clutch so upgrading may work in my favour anyway just don't like fixing things if not broken
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19th August 2014, 10:38 AM
#5
Advanced
I have a sim5 problem but no obvious leaks. Wat could be this cause?
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19th August 2014, 11:24 AM
#6
Patrol Guru
Originally Posted by
gooch
I have a sim5 problem but no obvious leaks. Wat could be this cause?
G'day Gooch,
Just like the responses in this thread, you will need to check the condition of your master and slave cylinders along with the condition of the hoses and connection points for leaks and wear.
The clutch plate face is designed to wear and over time will need to be replaced at some time in its life. The more stress you put on your driveline with offroading and towing will wear the clutch out faster. Depending on the clutch installed depends on the life of the unit.
If you have a high KM unit and havnt had the clutch looked at in a while (or never like most of us) then its probably a safe bet that you need to have the clutch replaced and in doing so you should have a new clutch kit installed including the spigot bearing, thrust bearing, rear main seal (for the crank shaft) have the fly wheel machined (or replaced would be my recommendation)
Replacing a clutch isn't all that difficult in itself once you understand how they work and what components are involved. The tricky part is having the correct tools to be able to do the job with. Like a gearbox jack stand to support the gearbox as you have to remove it from the car to do this job.
If you are going to do this yourself or have someone do it for you, I would also suggest to have the uni joints on the drive shafts (Front and rear) replaced as well. Seeing that they will also be off the car.
Cheers,
Rob
Last edited by rkinsey; 19th August 2014 at 11:27 AM.
Just about to jump into my next Patrol. A 2001 GU II TB45E .
WARNING!: Do not ever use a towball as a recovery point. They are not rated and can become a deadly projectile during a recovery if they snap off, and they have done so with tragic results in the past.
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19th August 2014, 06:19 PM
#7
Advanced
Thanks for the info. Ill have to check the clutch when I pull the motor out to replace the rear welch plugs
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19th August 2014, 11:13 PM
#8
Legendary
What ever you do don't do it alone as the gearboxes in these things weight close to 300kg or more
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20th August 2014, 08:00 PM
#9
Advanced
Gonna use a chain block to lift the engine out
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21st August 2014, 10:22 AM
#10
i used to have the same problem, ended up being the clutch master had spat the rear seal leaking into the booster. tell tail sign was missing paint on the booster where the brake fluid was leaking
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