DIY CV and Swivel Hub Rebuild Thread

[MudRunnerTD]

Not sure if its been covered yet but how much grease should I be buying to do the full job? Will be doing it in a couple of weekends

Not a lot really. A tub of LMM grease and a tub of Bearing grease. You will have enough to do the job 5 times.

[scubasteve]

Ok so did the rebuild over the last couple of days. This write up was a great help and I knew exactly what needed to be done. Mind you I encountered countless issues that just needed a bit more technical know how and some proffesional equipment as I just couldnt get the bigger wheel bearing races in nice but in the end I got them all rebuilt. I also did the steering box change to a later model box (which was top entry instead of bottom entry for the draglink). This meant a new adjustable draglink which I was going to get anyway. I also did the front brake pads and found the driver side piston is seized. So all in all it was definately a learning curve and the car is finally back on the road but id mostly love to thank all the good info I got on here it made it all alot simpler

[Stropp]

Ok so did the rebuild over the last couple of days. This write up was a great help and I knew exactly what needed to be done. Mind you I encountered countless issues that just needed a bit more technical know how and some proffesional equipment as I just couldnt get the bigger wheel bearing races in nice but in the end I got them all rebuilt. I also did the steering box change to a later model box (which was top entry instead of bottom entry for the draglink). This meant a new adjustable draglink which I was going to get anyway. I also did the front brake pads and found the driver side piston is seized. So all in all it was definately a learning curve and the car is finally back on the road but id mostly love to thank all the good info I got on here it made it all alot simpler

steve thats what this forum is about, help each other out where possible and especially guys like MR who have heaps of knowledge and isnt a bad bloke to go with it

[Gettnstarted]

Great thread mate ! About to do a forced rebuild ! so was nice to get a run through and use as a reference as I can't access manuals yet due to being a newbie !

[OMFGITZDAV]

Hey guys, I was starting the same job today of replacing all the seals and bearings for my axle and I hit a problem straight up.
As soon as I took the hub lock off (the one with the Allen keys to it) I had a few broken pieces fall out. image.jpg
The car is a 92 GQ TB42E. We have automatic hubs (the ones that say lock and auto). Now can anyone tell me where can I get another hub kit to repair or do I need a whole new one? The are just 2 rings broken as you can see by the picture. One of them (the flatter wider one) I'm sure I have a replacement for as I think it comes with the kit I have, and the other I have no idea what it is and if I can get away with putting it back together without it. What is your advice on this guys?

[liftlid]

Get a set of manual hubs, much stronger and should be a direct swap

[OMFGITZDAV]

Yeah, the manual ones are a lot stronger for sure but it's not an option right now to buy new ones, so that's my dilemma. I've looked for parts and by the looks of things, you can only buy a whole thing not the pieces. I'm hoping I can put it back together to get me out of trouble for now. I'm not liking my chances though. It was driving just fine beforehand until I got to 100km on the highway then it started vibrating (not wobbling, just noise), but that could have just been because the axle seal was leaking and the whole thing was flooded with oil.

[OMFGITZDAV]

And by the way.... How do you separate the king pin bearings so I can put the new ones in?

[liftlid]

And by the way.... How do you separate the king pin bearings so I can put the new ones in?

Used a bearing puller under bearing, sat the puller on the open vice and tapped out with hammer

image-3013989533.jpg

[MudRunnerTD]

Alternatively if you don't have the separator Liftlid just posted (handy bit of kit but it needs to be a small one) you can use a pair of pointy nose pliers Nd remove the seal from under the bearing, this will give you some room to move under the bearing.

• Set the king pin base in the vice with the bearing facing up.
• Insert the pointy nose pliers horizontally under the bearing on each side.
• Using a large flat head screw driver insert under the bearing from the other side.
• You now have 3 points of contact.
• The taper of the pointy nose pliers helps.
• Leaver and wiggle.
• It will pop off fairly easily using this method. A second pair of hands at this point would be helpful but not essential.