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Thread: DIY CV and Swivel Hub Rebuild Thread

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    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    DIY CV and Swivel Hub Rebuild Thread

    OK So one of the big maintenance items that we may attempt at home is a CV swap or Swivel Hub Rebuild. I have done this a Few times and have had these pics ready to go for ever!! I have referenced them a few times to members and thought it was time i actually did this thread so here it is!

    A Comprehensive Swivel Hub Rebuild Thread (Hopefully)

    So firstly THE MOST IMPORTANT Information!



    Screen shot 2015-02-16 at 12.16.25 PM.png
    In the pic above you have all the info you need to get the job done.

    The numbers below each of the tightening points are read like this N-m. kg-m. ft-lb
    i.e.Lock nut - 167 - 196 (17 - 20, 123 - 145) = 167-196Nm, 17-20kg-m, 123-145ft-lb

    The Black Circle Dot with the white X indicated the item should be replaced every time the hub is stripped.
    The Grease gun symbol indicates to pack the seal lip with the recommended grease.



    I have always used Nulon Extreme grease for all my jobs but recently changed to LM grease for the bearings after we did Healys front end.

    You will need a Heap of Rags. Lots of them. I also use paper towel as it can get really messy and you will waist a heap of rags.

    You will need a clean place to work if you can and jack stands.

    Tools will include:a
    • 1/2" Metric socket set
    • Metric Allen Keys
    • Pointy Nose Pliers
    • Vice Grips
    • Multi grips
    • Brass Drift or Cold Chistel
    • Soft face Hammer
    • Big Hammer
    • Vice would be bloody handy!


    Things i have purchased and rate very highly are the following:
    • Lip seal remover
    • Seal/Bearing Insert Kit
    • Bearing grease press


    I also recommend a couple of trays to lay stuff out in and somewhere to put all the bolts and nuts as you take it all off. Stay organised and you will do this easily.


    Lip seal removal tool (less than $20)
    SP56.jpg
    MECHANICS-SEAL-PULLER-REMOVER-REMOVAL-HAND-TOOL



    The Bearing Driver kit Less than $50 and Highly recommend one of these to everyone!!)
    10PC-AUTO-BUSHING-font-b-BEARING-b-font-RACE-AND-SEAL-font-b-DRIVERS-b-font.jpgrt9139.jpg
    Bearing-Race-and-Seal-Driver-Set-10-PCS-
    Cant believe how handy these kits are!!



    and the Ducks Guts!! The bearing Grease Packer!! HELL YEAH!!
    orly_34550c.jpg
    There are a few different types that will do the same job. I love mine and it was about $50.
    Search eBay HERE for Bearing Packer
    Once you have used one of these you will Never go back!!


    I have used the Terrain Tamer swivel hub rebuild kit a few times and am very happy with the quality of the kit.

    As a rule i have always done the Swivel Hub rebuild, wheel bearings and King Pin bearings all at the same time. Doing this rebuild will transform how your front end feels and you will feel the difference through your steering wheel as soon as you drive.

    Good Luck and dont hesitate to ask for help if you need it.

    Let the Photo Bomb Begin!!!
    Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 16th February 2015 at 12:49 PM.
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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  3. #2
    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    First crack the wheel nuts and then jack the front of the car up and put it on jack stands. You can do one side at a time if you like though and if you just jack up one side then likely you will get away without having to drain the front diff as all the Diff oil will be down the other end.

    If you have smashed a CV or it s time for a change then drain the front diff oil before you jack the car up.

    For the rebuild featured in this thread i had some company and my good friend Danny from 4WDTV was doing the drivers side while i did the passenger side. Cheers Danny!







    in this case i had smashed a CV the weekend before so the whole lot was coming out and cleaned and rebuilt. the Oil was contaminated by broken CV so was out of there.





    The diff drain plug told the story!



    A comfortable chair for the win!



    So the brakes need to be taken off and put out of the way. from memory a 22mm socket will get this done. a couple of zip ties to tie it up out of the way works too.







    undo the allen keys holding the locking hubs on and it can simple be dropped off. a slight tap with a rubber mallet might be needed if they were glued on before.







    Cir-Clip pliers are also very very handy and $15 from Bunnings will get you a good set to do the job.

    Take off the Cir-clip off the end of the stub axle. You can see the Cir-Clip on the end of the stub axle in the pic above

    So using some multi grips take off the Drive Clutch and you will expose the lock nut. In the pic my locknut had undone and came out too..... Not ideal!! Glad i was stripping it.



    using some pliers grab the edge of the "Egg Ring" spacer and remove.



    i had to use 2 pair of pliers to remove this as it was a little stubborn.





    next remove the lock nut from the top. If you have a GU then you will be looking at a Round Lock nut with 2 x phillips head locking screws. undo the screws and remove the lock nut.

    underneath the lock nut on a GQ is the brass locking ring you bend to limit the movement on the nuts. (this is what did not work and allowed my top nut to undo in the other pic.)





    Out comes the retaining plate and the outer wheel bearing.



    Off comes the whole disk. Note that the inner wheel bearing is inside the disk housing.



    Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 3rd July 2017 at 10:40 AM.
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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  5. #3
    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    I am pretty certain there is not supposed to be Oil there!!! So this is a result of a blown inner axle seal! the Swivel Hub is full of Diff oil!





    remove the 6 bolts and set aside. remove the seal and the disk guard.



    Now if your front end has never been stripped or the last guy took extra effort and used a sikaflex sealer to try and keep the water out the next item (Knuckle Spindle) might be glued on with a Gasket sealant of some description. a soft head mallet is your friend.





    off it comes and what have we here........ Its a CV!



    Note the Brass washer on the face of the CV at the end of the Axle. Grab the CV by the Axle and pull towards you. there is a Long or a Short Axle attached to the other end going to the Diff centre. completely remove this as a single item and set aside.

    And inside you have an inner axle seal





    Now you need to remove the Tie rod from the back of the swivel hub on both sides and the Drag link from the front of the left side too. You need to split the Tie rod ends. a couple of very good Hits with a steal hammer in the sweet spot should pop them out without too much trouble or grab yourself one of these from Supercheap. (mine is now broken and i just use a hammer but this worked a treat.)





    they will be off in no time







    Remove the rear scraper seal from the back side of the hub.



    NOTE*** One of these bolts is the Steering Lock set bolt. Note which it is and try not to adjust it. it has a double locking nut on it.



    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    Next is the top and bottom King Pin Bearings. These hold the whole swivel hub on.



    remove all 4 bolts and them lift out.



    Yeah i think mine was contaminated!!! Glad i was stripping it out!!



    Repeat for the bottom 4 bolts and them you should be able to take it off completely!!



    note the parts laid out on the Tub Lid on the ground. The tub is full of degreaser and was a bit of a Parts washer.





    Danny has been busy too Thanks Danny!









    All Cleaned up and ready to go!

    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

  8. The Following 8 Users Say Thank You to MudRunnerTD For This Useful Post:

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    Now disappointingly!! I did not get any pics of removing teh king pin bearings from the caps. They are a bit of a bugger to do but there is a trick to it!. Next time i do a set i will grab some pics and add them to this thread.

    Edit 25/3/2019. Here is the missing pics

    Quote Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD View Post
    Ok so i took these pics last year and thought i had uploaded them but did not.

    Here are dome pics for removing the king pin bearings 2 different ways.

    Option 1 needs a bearing removal clamp and a vice.









    Install in vice loosely so it is just sitting in there hanging from the clamp

    Punch and hammer.











    Easy job.

    Lmm grease is great for the wheel bearings and CV



    Option 2 is to use a pair of pointy nose pliers and a flat screw driver. 3 points of contact make light work of it



    Remove the lip seal under the bearing. Just wreck it and rip it out. This makes space for the pliers











    The taper on the pliers will do the work here. Wedge in and work it.



    Screw driver from the other side.





    Wahlah.








    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

    Basically put the cap in the vice with the bearing facing up. rip off the rubber seal from under it and stick a pair of pointy nose pliers in there. with a flat blade screw driver create 3 points of contact and lever it off. it will come off pretty easily. The taper of the pliers will add to the wedge and it will have it off quickly.

    OK Clean everything up and clear off your work space. you have completed the strip.



    Danny's side had been the one that smashed a CV and there was a fair bit of damage to the inside of the swivel hub there. nothing a dremel and some sand paper did not fix though.







    OK Time to put it back together again!

    Scraper seals.





    Over the knuckle end.







    Line it all up.



    If you still have them then install the grease cups. Dont be too worried, the 80 series Toyota does not even run them!. If they are wrecked dont worry about replacing them. they are pretty pointless.





    Inner Axle seal! This one is pretty important! BE GENTLE! BE STRAIGHT! A Little grease around the outside of it and into the seat will help it go in straight.





    This is where the Bearing Race Insert Kit comes into its own!!









    Happy Days!!
    Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 27th March 2019 at 09:11 PM.
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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    Rotaredom NissanGQ4.2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD View Post
    Now disappointingly!! I did not get any pics of removing teh king pin bearings from the caps. They are a bit of a bugger to do but there is a trick to it!. Next time i do a set i will grab some pics and add them to this thread.
    I think you really need 2 add these missing pics and I just happen 2 know where where there is a swivel hub that need redoing.

    I've done it once when I broke my CV never again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Great thread Daz
    Time is never wasted when your wasted all the time



    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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    Now its time to get all your bearings ready to go into the new front end.

    Did i mention the bearing grease press??? !!!





    Push the grease through the bearing until it comes out the top!!! Yep all done in seconds! Regardless of the size of bearing! OH YEAH!!!!





    Then press the king pin bearings back onto the cups with the vice. Nice and straight. Nice and tight. I used a socket to protect the bearing.





    I was doing all 4 at once so i matched the outer races with the bearings and sat them in to protect and stay together.





    So using the Bearing Race insert tool again (or a good sized socket) install the outer king pin race into the Knuckle.







    I use Anti Seize onto the bolts so i can undo them again next time.



    Install the top bolts loosely.





    Then fit up the bottom one too.





    Tighten all bolts





    bed in the rear scraper seal and install the cover plate. This can be a little confusing, take your time and it will bed in perfectly.





    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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    Great thread thanks for all the pics & build tips.
    This thread will give many confidence to tackle this job.
    Its not a hard job just time consuming agree some tools and patience is needed.
    Not being picky,(did I miss something) the swivel preload check is done before the rear wiper seals are fitted correct ?.
    Again, great pics n thread.

    Now I've read whole thread I see you go by feel,ok.
    When I did it the first time I did the same used original shims nice n smooth, but thought what the heck, check it any way.
    It was out and needed adjusting, so long ago cant remember how much but it was to loose.
    I think you've done a fantastic job, just putting it out there.
    I always read your input and consider your advice invaluable.
    Last edited by Robo; 18th March 2016 at 12:13 PM.
    IF IT'S NOT A NISSAN.
    THEN IT'S A COMPROMISE

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  17. #9
    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oddkid82 View Post
    Hey. I am wanting to do this rebuild in the next few months. What are good brands of kits to get and where to get them.
    Been looking on ebay, are the drivetech 4x4 ones any good. They use the toyo bearings.
    Hi mate, i like the Terrain Tamer Kit personally but as long as the kit you buy has ALL the parts you need then go for it. i'd recommend installing wheel bearings while your there too for sure.

    Quote Originally Posted by Robo View Post
    Great thread thanks for all the pics & build tips.
    This thread will give many confidence to tackle this job.
    Its not a hard job just time consuming agree some tools and patience is needed.
    Not being picky,(did I miss something) the swivel preload check is done before the rear wiper seals are fitted correct ?.
    Again, great pics n thread.

    Now I've read whole thread I see you go by feel,ok.
    When I did it the first time I did the same used original shims nice n smooth, but thought what the heck, check it any way.
    It was out and needed adjusting, so long ago cant remember how much but it was to loose.
    I think you've done a fantastic job, just putting it out there.
    I always read your input and consider your advice invaluable.
    Cheers Robo, yeah to be honest i just do the tension for the king pin bearing by feel. Not ideal, most comments you read online say refit the existing spacers back where they came from, I can clearly see the floors in this argument but do it anyway. As an exercise i should certainly set up the spring rate checker as described in the Manual and see where it all sits for sure. Have you by chance got any pics of when you did your check? keen to see how you did it.

    Cheers MR
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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  19. #10
    Expert oddkid82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD View Post
    Hi mate, i like the Terrain Tamer Kit personally but as long as the kit you buy has ALL the parts you need then go for it. i'd recommend installing wheel bearings while your there too
    I gave terrain tamer a call for a price, a bit more expensive than the ones I was looking at. Hmmm decisions decisions.
    Ps love the thread. Its going to help a lot ��
    Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 19th March 2016 at 09:33 PM.

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