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Thread: DIY CV and Swivel Hub Rebuild Thread

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    DIY CV and Swivel Hub Rebuild Thread

    OK So one of the big maintenance items that we may attempt at home is a CV swap or Swivel Hub Rebuild. I have done this a Few times and have had these pics ready to go for ever!! I have referenced them a few times to members and thought it was time i actually did this thread so here it is!

    A Comprehensive Swivel Hub Rebuild Thread (Hopefully)

    So firstly THE MOST IMPORTANT Information!



    Screen shot 2015-02-16 at 12.16.25 PM.png
    In the pic above you have all the info you need to get the job done.

    The numbers below each of the tightening points are read like this N-m. kg-m. ft-lb
    i.e.Lock nut - 167 - 196 (17 - 20, 123 - 145) = 167-196Nm, 17-20kg-m, 123-145ft-lb

    The Black Circle Dot with the white X indicated the item should be replaced every time the hub is stripped.
    The Grease gun symbol indicates to pack the seal lip with the recommended grease.



    I have always used Nulon Extreme grease for all my jobs but recently changed to LM grease for the bearings after we did Healys front end.

    You will need a Heap of Rags. Lots of them. I also use paper towel as it can get really messy and you will waist a heap of rags.

    You will need a clean place to work if you can and jack stands.

    Tools will include:a
    • 1/2" Metric socket set
    • Metric Allen Keys
    • Pointy Nose Pliers
    • Vice Grips
    • Multi grips
    • Brass Drift or Cold Chistel
    • Soft face Hammer
    • Big Hammer
    • Vice would be bloody handy!


    Things i have purchased and rate very highly are the following:
    • Lip seal remover
    • Seal/Bearing Insert Kit
    • Bearing grease press


    I also recommend a couple of trays to lay stuff out in and somewhere to put all the bolts and nuts as you take it all off. Stay organised and you will do this easily.


    Lip seal removal tool (less than $20)
    SP56.jpg
    MECHANICS-SEAL-PULLER-REMOVER-REMOVAL-HAND-TOOL



    The Bearing Driver kit Less than $50 and Highly recommend one of these to everyone!!)
    10PC-AUTO-BUSHING-font-b-BEARING-b-font-RACE-AND-SEAL-font-b-DRIVERS-b-font.jpgrt9139.jpg
    Bearing-Race-and-Seal-Driver-Set-10-PCS-
    Cant believe how handy these kits are!!



    and the Ducks Guts!! The bearing Grease Packer!! HELL YEAH!!
    orly_34550c.jpg
    There are a few different types that will do the same job. I love mine and it was about $50.
    Search eBay HERE for Bearing Packer
    Once you have used one of these you will Never go back!!


    I have used the Terrain Tamer swivel hub rebuild kit a few times and am very happy with the quality of the kit.

    As a rule i have always done the Swivel Hub rebuild, wheel bearings and King Pin bearings all at the same time. Doing this rebuild will transform how your front end feels and you will feel the difference through your steering wheel as soon as you drive.

    Good Luck and dont hesitate to ask for help if you need it.

    Let the Photo Bomb Begin!!!
    Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 16th February 2015 at 11:49 AM.
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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  4. #2
    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    First crack the wheel nuts and then jack the front of the car up and put it on jack stands. You can do one side at a time if you like though and if you just jack up one side then likely you will get away without having to drain the front diff as all the Diff oil will be down the other end.

    If you have smashed a CV or it s time for a change then drain the front diff oil before you jack the car up.

    For the rebuild featured in this thread i had some company and my good friend Danny from 4WDTV was doing the drivers side while i did the passenger side. Cheers Danny!







    in this case i had smashed a CV the weekend before so the whole lot was coming out and cleaned and rebuilt. the Oil was contaminated by broken CV so was out of there.





    The diff drain plug told the story!



    A comfortable chair for the win!



    So the brakes need to be taken off and put out of the way. from memory a 22mm socket will get this done. a couple of zip ties to tie it up out of the way works too.







    undo the allen keys holding the locking hubs on and it can simple be dropped off. a slight tap with a rubber mallet might be needed if they were glued on before.







    Cir-Clip pliers are also very very handy and $15 from Bunnings will get you a good set to do the job.

    Take off the Cir-clip off the end of the stub axle. You can see the Cir-Clip on the end of the stub axle in the pic above

    So using some multi grips take off the Drive Clutch and you will expose the lock nut. In the pic my locknut had undone and came out too..... Not ideal!! Glad i was stripping it.



    using some pliers grab the edge of the "Egg Ring" spacer and remove.



    i had to use 2 pair of pliers to remove this as it was a little stubborn.





    next remove the lock nut from the top. If you have a GU then you will be looking at a Round Lock nut with 2 x phillips head locking screws. undo the screws and remove the lock nut.

    underneath the lock nut on a GQ is the brass locking ring you bend to limit the movement on the nuts. (this is what did not work and allowed my top nut to undo in the other pic.)





    Out comes the retaining plate and the outer wheel bearing.



    Off comes the whole disk. Note that the inner wheel bearing is inside the disk housing.



    Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 3rd July 2017 at 09:40 AM.
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    I am pretty certain there is not supposed to be Oil there!!! So this is a result of a blown inner axle seal! the Swivel Hub is full of Diff oil!





    remove the 6 bolts and set aside. remove the seal and the disk guard.



    Now if your front end has never been stripped or the last guy took extra effort and used a sikaflex sealer to try and keep the water out the next item (Knuckle Spindle) might be glued on with a Gasket sealant of some description. a soft head mallet is your friend.





    off it comes and what have we here........ Its a CV!



    Note the Brass washer on the face of the CV at the end of the Axle. Grab the CV by the Axle and pull towards you. there is a Long or a Short Axle attached to the other end going to the Diff centre. completely remove this as a single item and set aside.

    And inside you have an inner axle seal





    Now you need to remove the Tie rod from the back of the swivel hub on both sides and the Drag link from the front of the left side too. You need to split the Tie rod ends. a couple of very good Hits with a steal hammer in the sweet spot should pop them out without too much trouble or grab yourself one of these from Supercheap. (mine is now broken and i just use a hammer but this worked a treat.)





    they will be off in no time







    Remove the rear scraper seal from the back side of the hub.



    NOTE*** One of these bolts is the Steering Lock set bolt. Note which it is and try not to adjust it. it has a double locking nut on it.



    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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    Next is the top and bottom King Pin Bearings. These hold the whole swivel hub on.



    remove all 4 bolts and them lift out.



    Yeah i think mine was contaminated!!! Glad i was stripping it out!!



    Repeat for the bottom 4 bolts and them you should be able to take it off completely!!



    note the parts laid out on the Tub Lid on the ground. The tub is full of degreaser and was a bit of a Parts washer.





    Danny has been busy too Thanks Danny!









    All Cleaned up and ready to go!

    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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    Now disappointingly!! I did not get any pics of removing teh king pin bearings from the caps. They are a bit of a bugger to do but there is a trick to it!. Next time i do a set i will grab some pics and add them to this thread.

    Edit 25/3/2019. Here is the missing pics

    Quote Originally Posted by MudRunnerTD View Post
    Ok so i took these pics last year and thought i had uploaded them but did not.

    Here are dome pics for removing the king pin bearings 2 different ways.

    Option 1 needs a bearing removal clamp and a vice.









    Install in vice loosely so it is just sitting in there hanging from the clamp

    Punch and hammer.











    Easy job.

    Lmm grease is great for the wheel bearings and CV



    Option 2 is to use a pair of pointy nose pliers and a flat screw driver. 3 points of contact make light work of it



    Remove the lip seal under the bearing. Just wreck it and rip it out. This makes space for the pliers











    The taper on the pliers will do the work here. Wedge in and work it.



    Screw driver from the other side.





    Wahlah.








    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

    Basically put the cap in the vice with the bearing facing up. rip off the rubber seal from under it and stick a pair of pointy nose pliers in there. with a flat blade screw driver create 3 points of contact and lever it off. it will come off pretty easily. The taper of the pliers will add to the wedge and it will have it off quickly.

    OK Clean everything up and clear off your work space. you have completed the strip.



    Danny's side had been the one that smashed a CV and there was a fair bit of damage to the inside of the swivel hub there. nothing a dremel and some sand paper did not fix though.







    OK Time to put it back together again!

    Scraper seals.





    Over the knuckle end.







    Line it all up.



    If you still have them then install the grease cups. Dont be too worried, the 80 series Toyota does not even run them!. If they are wrecked dont worry about replacing them. they are pretty pointless.





    Inner Axle seal! This one is pretty important! BE GENTLE! BE STRAIGHT! A Little grease around the outside of it and into the seat will help it go in straight.





    This is where the Bearing Race Insert Kit comes into its own!!









    Happy Days!!
    Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 27th March 2019 at 08:11 PM.
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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    Now its time to get all your bearings ready to go into the new front end.

    Did i mention the bearing grease press??? !!!





    Push the grease through the bearing until it comes out the top!!! Yep all done in seconds! Regardless of the size of bearing! OH YEAH!!!!





    Then press the king pin bearings back onto the cups with the vice. Nice and straight. Nice and tight. I used a socket to protect the bearing.





    I was doing all 4 at once so i matched the outer races with the bearings and sat them in to protect and stay together.





    So using the Bearing Race insert tool again (or a good sized socket) install the outer king pin race into the Knuckle.







    I use Anti Seize onto the bolts so i can undo them again next time.



    Install the top bolts loosely.





    Then fit up the bottom one too.





    Tighten all bolts





    bed in the rear scraper seal and install the cover plate. This can be a little confusing, take your time and it will bed in perfectly.





    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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    Now for the Big Bearings!! The Wheel bearings on a Nissan are a fair size. but my Bearing grease press eats them up! Love this thing!!











    Yep thats right!! Done and Dusted! Love it!
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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    So time to pack teh CV with Grease. I use Hi Temp Extreme grease here but i am impressed with the LM Grease that NissanNewby was using for Healy's car.



    Get Dirty! Get that Grease in there!





    Time to put this sucker In!! What out for that inner axle seal that you fitted earlier! this is the most critical stage! try not to place all the weight of the axle and CV onto the bottom of that seal or you may wreck it. DO NOT sit the axle on it and slide it in! this will certainly wreck the seal and you will be stripping it out again next week end.

    The CV does Not ned to be coated on the outside with Grease as it is floating in Air and needs No Lubrication. Do Not pack grease into the inner swivel Hub. It is Not required.





    The Long side is harder to refit than the short side due to shear weight of the length of inner axle.



    Gentle push down to lift the other end of the axle into the Diff Centre. slight turns. Gentle Gentle Gentle.





    and we are IN







    Next is the Brass washer. Note that the taper goes to the CV. Very important. get it wrong and you wont know until the final moment when it all wont fit and you strip back to here again!



    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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    Next is the Knuckle Spindle.

    Use a Brass Drift or bis screw driver to remove the old needle bearing and install the new one.





    Love that bearing insert tool..... Did i say that already?







    Prepare the Grease seal for the back of the Spindle and install it.





    We want to keep the water out of this so Gasket Maker is your friend. Seal it up as you go.









    On it goes.





    Dont forget the disk guard. (sux if you do then have to strip to fit later)



    On with the Dust seal from your kit.



    Line up the bolts and install







    Tension to spec.



    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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    DIY CV and Swivel Hub Rebuild Thread

    OK now for the wheel bearings.

    So you had to strip out the inner race from inside the Disk. Yes its a bugger of a job and a Brass Drift is your friend. I have used the old race to make a new insert tool for this job. I have ground 0.5mm off the outer face of teh bearing race making it a sloppy fit into the seat. This allows me to use it to install the new bearing race without damage and without it getting stuck in there too. Very handy!!





    Bit of grease to help us bed the new race into position.



    the new race in then the old race in on top.



    Its the right size

    Did i mention the Bearing Insert tool before??!



    a few good hits and she s in.







    other side needs to go in the same way. Flip the disk and grease up and good to go.



    Yep Love that Bearing Insert tool









    Grease seal on the inside of the disk ready to go.



    did i mention the Grease press before??











    ****EDIT 12th March 2017****

    Please note that I am advised that the grease seal in the pics below has actually been installed backwards. I note that I have installed many of these seals like this and never had an issue with Wheel Bearings or damaged seals but Nissan says it should be the other way.

    Please see the cross section image below showing the double lip seal facing away from the bearing



    Attention. The seal in the pic below is in backwards. Install with the double lip seal facing out. Apologies to all.



    using a small drift or driver with a mallet bed the grease seal.



    Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 12th March 2017 at 06:04 PM.
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

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