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Thread: DIY - Winch mount + winch install with alloy bumper

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    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    DIY - Winch mount + winch install with alloy bumper

    I bought a Supercheap Ridge Ryder 12000lbs winch when they were having one of their 35% off sales. Paid $565 for it.

    This thread is about how I made my own winch mount, installed the winch and made some 3mm plate protection under the radiator and extended it to replace the factory plastic air deflector.

    I did this to fit with the factory alloy bumper bar.

    I started with the idea that I wanted to use as much metal scrap as I could find in my shed.
    Main component is a length of 50 x 75 x 3mm wall RHS with bits of 6mm flat bar added to it.













    What I wanted here was to have the winch mounted 25mm lower than the usual universal mount plates that people often use which sit across the 2 chassis rails.
    I also needed a lower point to attach the underbody protection that is part of this excercise and the bottom of the RHS is ideal - as you'll see further down.




    The fairlead is mounted on a removable bracket because I have to be able to adjust it for the cutout in the alloy bumper.




    I welded on these tabs with nuts to fix the 3mm plate.







    While I had the front off I opened the LH chassis rail to insert a plate with 2 nuts for the LH recovery plate. I fed the 3rd nut in with a telescopic magnet




    I'll continue with the winch install tomorrow..
    Last edited by jff45; 23rd June 2014 at 02:18 PM.
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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    Advanced crazyenough's Avatar
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    Nice work.. Wish I was handy with the welder.
    2009 ST-L with a few goodies.

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    Legendary NP99's Avatar
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    Nice weld work mate....
    1999 GU 4500 dual fuel

    Il dado è tratto

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    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    Everyone seemed to think it was a good idea to check the grease in the gearbox before installing it so that's what I did. Happy to find that it was plentiful..







    Very simple to take apart..



    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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    Legendary my third 256's Avatar
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    great job mate cant eeight to see it all togeather
    2007 GU 6 /ST-L / MYO8 / DIESEL/AUTO /MOONSTONE /pro vent 200
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    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    This is how I did the protection for under the radiator and replaced the plastic air deflector.

    I wanted to copy the original plastic item as closely as possible, especially the angle, so I made a 12mm square frame first then gusseted the corners..













    Had to buy the 3mm steel sheet and cut it to size with my Ebay plasma cutter.

    This is my spray booth..




    Fits exactly as planned..







    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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    Clunk (24th June 2014)

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    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    Solenoid and cabling


    The collective wisdom says to get the solenoid up out of the weather. There's no room to clip it onto the winch rails anyway.
    Very simple to take apart and remove the controller plug.




    Part of the reason these winches are cheap is that the wiring is not real thick. If the winch is made to work hard, you'll get voltage drop and, consequently (Ohm's law, remember), increased current.
    Original wire appears to be 2 gauge (<35mm2). I went for 0 gauge (~50mm2) from my local Jaycar store.




    Got the lugs from Ebay, $26 for pack of 10 delivered. A lot cheaper than Supercheap but Jaycar prices are pretty reasonable.

    Got this 12 ton hydraulic hex crimper also from Ebay for $54.90 delivered.




    It worked well but only after I used the 35mm dies following the 50mm dies. The 50mm dies just weren't tight enough.
    I found this when I soldered the opening as corrosion-proofing and the solder wicked through the crimp. With the 35mm dies I have a good gas-tight crimp.




    I made up a small bracket and fitted the solenoid alongside the battery. I couldn't find a better place to put it. It's ideal for cable lengths and cable routing.
    I need to change it so it just clips in there in case I need quicker access to the relays.




    Had to make up this brass spacer to allow the cable to pass over the solenoid.




    Routed the cabling through the hole where the horn wire was. Added some loom tube to the hole over the original plastic ring. I made the bracket to pass the cables over the bumper mount and covered it with 3 layers of heatshrink.









    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    I ran the solenoid controller wires through the firewall and fitted the original plug under the steering with a small cutout switch.




    I also found a momentary rocker switch at Jaycar that's a replacement for the hand controller switch so I mounted it under the dash as a 2nd choice. Could be handy if I break or lose the hand controller.




    To finish off, I added a pretty bright LED to let me know if I've left the controller 'armed'..

    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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    Legendary jay see's Avatar
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    Like the solenoid set up near the battery.
    Very neat job looks great.
    12/97 GEE YOU
    4.5lt Gas blower. Lots of mods to come.....all in good time.

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    Patrol Freak jff45's Avatar
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    I discarded the original TI stainless barwork & bumper and found an alloy bar on Gumtree for $250.

    Now to fit the alloy bar and adjust the fairlead.

    I did the cutout for the fairlead with an air body saw fitted with a broken hacksaw blade.





    .. and no, the rope doesn't hang there now. It was just for the pic
    John

    2001 GUII TI 4500 - Now converted to TD42T auto with Nomad valve body

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