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Thread: RB30 Facts, Figures and Helpful Hints

  1. #21
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    When checking fuel economy you must take into account any modifications and accessories on the vehicle.

    A roof rack, winch, rock sliders, Dual Fuel, rear bar, second or even third battery, shelving, aux fuel tank and lift etc, all add to the weight or wind resistance of your Patrol

    Tyre size, type and air pressure must also be taken into account.

    How you drive is a big factor.

    My fuel economy has always been fairly consistent at around 14.7-15.5/100km.

    Off road and towing it can rise to 18-19 l/100 km, or even more, If I hammer it.

    I haven't tested it since the 2'' lift.

    Hopefully, someone with experience with vacuum gauges will be able to answer your question.
    Last edited by mudnut; 30th July 2014 at 06:05 PM.

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    Ta mudnut. Yes I have roof rack, second Battery, bull bar. Mickey T's 31/10.5r15. I usually run these at 38psi highway and lower as needed. I have a 2inch left with extractors. I usually sit on about 100ks highway or about 2800 on the tacho. Over this it's a toss up what is moving faster the tachco or the fuel gauge. Hence mY questIons about a visible vacuum gauge. Is it worth it?

  4. #23
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    Have a read of this thread, regarding vacuum gauges:

    http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...t=vacuum+gauge
    Last edited by mudnut; 12th August 2014 at 10:38 PM.

  5. #24
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    With 24 km of towing and 210 of mainly highway driving with four adults aboard, a winch and 2" inch lift I am getting
    15.64 litres / 100 klms.
    Last edited by mudnut; 9th November 2014 at 10:48 AM.

  6. #25
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    Testing for a blown head gasket.

    To test for a blown head gasket, you must take the fan belt off. This is to stop the water pump from agitating the water and creating a stream of bubbles which appear at the radiator when the cap is off.

    The engine can idle without the pump for 7-8 minutes (the engine must be cold at the start of the test), but no more or the engine will be damaged. I removed the sensor next to the head and made up a half bottle (similar to the bottle used to bleed the air from the coolant), with the right size fitting for the sensor hole.

    With the radiator cap on I revved the engine and watched as the coolant in the head was forced out of the bottle, by a stream of exhaust gasses.

    Once the head was removed I found two fire rings were split, because the engine had been subject to detonation.

    The fire rings are pressed into the head gasket and are sandwiched between the head and the top of the bore.

    When the engine is detonating for long periods of time, combustion runs hotter than normal.

    The fire rings harden and split horizontally, allowing pressurised gas to be forced into the water galleries.

    The sensor I removed is the black plastic one, with vacuum hoses attached, next to the yellow arrow. Be extra careful not to break the delicate hose fittings when removing and installing it. (It is repairable, but is a pain to do so).
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    Last edited by NissanGQ4.2; 20th June 2016 at 05:19 PM. Reason: Added information

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    Quote Originally Posted by mudnut View Post
    With 24 km of towing and 210 of mainly highway driving with four adults aboard, a winch and 2" inch lift I am getting 15.64 litres / 100klms. It worked out to $53.70 for 234 km at today's price, which is getting expensive. If I really wanted economy, I wouldn't have bought a Patrol. :P
    15.64 per 100? I'd be grateful for getting under 20l/100.
    Was running 33 but dropped em back to 31''s.
    Got rid of the roof rack but still have the 4 inch lift and snorkel.
    Retimed it to 12 deg on ignition after a new rotor button and distributor cap and getting about 17l/100 now.

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to CJ Burns Esq For This Useful Post:

    mudnut (9th October 2014)

  9. #27
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    I get about 16L/100km on the hwy - 3" lift, 35's, winch, bar, snorkel, draws. Recent trip to Walhalla, did 150km hwy, 100km low range, 150km high range, ended up with 19L/100km which I'm happy with. Was fully loaded with camping gear too!

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to Throbbinhood For This Useful Post:

    mudnut (19th January 2015)

  11. #28
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Throbbinhood View Post
    I get about 16L/100km on the hwy - 3" lift, 35's, winch, bar, snorkel, draws. Recent trip to Walhalla, did 150km hwy, 100km low range, 150km high range, ended up with 19L/100km which I'm happy with. Was fully loaded with camping gear too!
    So this is an RB30S or a converted RB30efi unit. Have you changed your diff ratios, as pushing 35' tyres will use a heap of fuel.

  12. #29
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    Before undoing the spark plugs, it is a good idea to clean any dirt, oil or sand from the hole. This is to prevent any from falling into the engine or getting stuck in the thread.

    I have made a tool out of thin walled pipe, so the vacuum cleaner can be used to make the job easy. The pipes inner diameter is 20 mm and the outer diameter is 23 mm so it can be slipped over the spark plug and have clearance to reach the bottom of the hole. I have used electrical tape to make a seal for the vacuum hose too. A piece of poly pipe would work just as well.
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    Last edited by mudnut; 10th November 2014 at 01:02 PM.

  13. #30
    Patrol God mudnut's Avatar
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    The main fuse board is located in the driver side kick panel. Since becoming a member of this great forum I have seen a few requests for the location sticker. This one is for a '94 RB30. If you have an earlier or later model, feel free to post up your sticker if it is different to this.
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    Last edited by mudnut; 10th November 2014 at 01:03 PM.

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