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These are the upper components of the Thermal Vacuum Valve (TVV). It is positioned next to the yellow arrow which points to the cooling system bleed screw in the second picture. You access the valve by simply unscrewing the valve cap.
As posted by Dom, this valve is open to atmosphere while the engine is cold. It stops the vacuum feed to the vacuum advance diaphragm on the distributor so that the engine timing remains retarded. It also affects the operation of the EGR valve until the engine is warm.
Once the engine coolant reaches a pre-determined temperature, the valve closes and the vacuum advance is allowed to operate normally.
I found that the components were caked in fine dust, which is sucked into the valve.
I will endeavour to work out a way of stopping water and mud from sitting in the valve intake. I also want to filter the air which is sucked into it. I think raising the intake via a hose to a cheap fuel filter next to the diff breathers will be an easy solution.
You may have noticed that my TVV has a hose clamp around the base. It there because I accidently snapped off the bottom hose barb while bleeding the air from the cooling system. The hose clamp holds a 3/16 15mm long pop rivet on as a replacement.
The hose clamp has a hole drilled through it to hold the rivet and I used silicon to seal the rivet to the valve body, (I was very careful not to get any silicon into the valve).
Last edited by mudnut; 2nd March 2016 at 03:13 PM.
This is the TVV with an old distributor lead as a connector. I have stripped out the High Tension lead and used a hose clamp to secure the rubber to the valve cap. I have glued a piece of vacuum hose into it and ran it up to the firewall, next the diff breathers.
I used a cheap in-line fuel filter with the inlet pointing down to stop water from entering.
Last edited by mudnut; 23rd February 2016 at 01:20 PM.
This is the TVV inlet filter, cable tied to the breathers. All up to do the mod it cost just under $20. I haven't gained much height from the original position, but at least water, mud and dust shouldn't enter the engine via the valve.
Last edited by mudnut; 23rd February 2016 at 01:21 PM.
CARBY REBUILD: Had my carby rebuilt and set-up yesterday by an experienced bloke. Had done 320,000kms so time for a freshen up. The Patrol ran fine, smashed other 4bys on the sand... but niggly problems constantly running lean, wouldn't idle until fully warmed up, stalled after braking down hills etc. The full gamut.
PROBABLY THE BEST $300 I've spent on the car yet!!! Its almost a different vehicle hahaha! Idle's 10000000 times smoother, quieter, perkier acceleration, lots more low end torque and can slide around corners at 3,000rpm. The bloke said it had a blocked idle jet... so no more cold idle or weird vacuum problems either.
Wish I'd done it sooner. Just waiting to see how fuel economy turns out (previously 14L/100 fully loaded highway)...
CARBY REBUILD: Had my carby rebuilt and set-up yesterday by an experienced bloke. Had done 320,000kms so time for a freshen up. The Patrol ran fine, smashed other 4bys on the sand... but niggly problems constantly running lean, wouldn't idle until fully warmed up, stalled after braking down hills etc. The full gamut.
PROBABLY THE BEST $300 I've spent on the car yet!!! Its almost a different vehicle hahaha! Idle's 10000000 times smoother, quieter, perkier acceleration, lots more low end torque and can slide around corners at 3,000rpm. The bloke said it had a blocked idle jet... so no more cold idle or weird vacuum problems either.
Wish I'd done it sooner. Just waiting to see how fuel economy turns out (previously 14L/100 fully loaded highway)...
Ok that's it, I've been thinking about having mine done for a while now, that's sold it for me, I'm getting mine done!
Mine also runs great, although a little thirstier (could be my driving), but it's done about 340,000 so maybe I'll get a bit better power / acceleration, can never have too much of that :-)
Where'd you get yours done?
93 GQ wagon, RB30, extractors, 2 inch tough dog lift, 5 spd, A/T KO2 32's, steel winch bar, rated recovery points, red arc dual battery set up, rhino roof racks, UHF etc etc. Slow and steady might not win the race but it gets me there eventually...
This is the link to an RB30 Patrol Auto Choke problem that I've come across and fixed.
I think it will be useful to anybody with RB30 Patrol, if not any vehicle.
Hey Guys,
It took me some good time to work out the reason behind the auto choke failure.
For a while now, the auto choke flaps weren't opening when the engine's warm enough, obviously costing me
extra fuel every time I drive it, as well as performance issues.
I checked the power to the socket that takes the +12V to the auto choke heater unit, and it was fine. I checked the auto choke relay prior to that, and it was fine as well.
The real culprit was as in the pictures.
I has been eluding me for a while.
I wonder how many dodgy wires/connectors in the old wiring of the vehicle are like that, giving me all sort of trouble.
I gota similar problem with the Fuel Pump Control Unit which appears to be working only intermittently. I'm guessing it's a similar kinda issue.
Nissan R31 Skyline starter motor = RB30 Patrol starter motor
These two starter motors are interchangeable
Mechanically the R31 starter fits to RB30 Patrol perfectly.
However, the starter solenoid connector is different.
The way I fixed that issue was by wiring a brand new wire with a matching connector for the
R31 starter. I left the original Patrol starter solenoid connector plug/socket as it is.
The reason for that is that I can use both starters without having to fiddle with wiring or connectors when ever the need arrives(as one starter suddenly dies or I kill it by cranking on gear to get the car moving in a situation where I can't start the engine)
The starter solenoid wire from the starter solenoid connector plug is coloured black with a yellow stripe.
Follow that wire upward and it joins the plug/socket board next to the battery.
From there, you can tap a new wire to it by clearing the a bit of the wire and soldering it.
In my case, I didn't have to do too much other than opening up a tap that was already there and using solder
to join the new wire. The old joint was to get the ignition key power to LPG cold start solenoid(so the
cold start solenoid only activates when cranking)
I discovered that the R31 starter is way better than the stock stater(or rather the rebuilt replacement from the auto sparky)
R31 starter turns faster and has lot more grunt than the $200 rebuilt stock replacement from the auto sparky.
And not to mention R31 starter only cost me $25 including postage.
If I knew this earlier, I could've saved $175 and get a better starter delivered to my door step.
The reason for me to have a second starter is as a backup for long treks.
Last edited by dom14; 13th September 2016 at 02:12 AM.
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Originally Posted by CaptainNewman
