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So I thought I'd post this in case any other RB30 owners were interested, I removed the heater element / grid thing from the carby spacer (finally, wish I'd done it sooner, easy as), and am so happy with it I thought I'd pass on the results. I did some k's today, and what a difference!
Lately I've been running somewhere around 18.5 litres per hundred, just filled up and only used 13.6 litres per hundred. Something like a 25% improvement in fuel economy and the difference in power and driveability is crazy. I was able to overtake up a hill, it sits comfortably or even in front of the pace of other cars off the lights (not hooning, too old for that, but before it struggled to keep up with the traffic from rest and now it doesn't feel laboured). I don't have to use as much throttle on the highway, it feels like a new car to drive, now when it revs it feels like there's a point to the revs, unlike before...
Awesome , I love my truck 😀
93 GQ wagon, RB30, extractors, 2 inch tough dog lift, 5 spd, A/T KO2 32's, steel winch bar, rated recovery points, red arc dual battery set up, rhino roof racks, UHF etc etc. Slow and steady might not win the race but it gets me there eventually...
Dug up this old article from 1990 - a 'first drive' when the RB30 Patrol came out in Australia. Good to see what they though about it then, a useful and interesting read.
In that very same issue of the magazine they reviewed the 'brand new' 80 series as being "Toyota compromise of the "Cruiser's rugged he-man conservatism of shape and engineering", and that the 80 looks "almost pretty, with its pooftah curves and soft edges everywhere" !!! Oh how the times haven't changed...
The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to CaptainNewman For This Useful Post:
4bye4 (24th September 2015), dom14 (28th September 2015), mudnut (16th October 2015), Ovadpatrol (7th August 2022), Throbbinhood (25th September 2015), Woof (24th September 2015)
Hey guys,
This is how I managed to repair the thermostatic auto choke of the RB30 Patrol Nikki carby.
It's a fairly easy and quick fix, but can be improved.
I did it in a hurry, but pretty sure this works well.
Basically, this was a bad design. Simply the factory way of attaching the heater element disk
onto the bi-metal spring assembly is not that good. It's a some kinda metallic conductive glue or a brazing method, but comes off over time due to heat and vibration. Once it falls off from it's location, it simply rattles inside and doesn't do anything. So, if you hear the plastic auto choke unit has a rattle when you remove and give it a shake, it's 100% sure that it is not working. I suspect it is the case for many RB30 Patrols auto chokes out there, and they are running rich and the fuel economy is suffering as a result of that. So, I reckon this post is useful to many RB30 Patrol Nikki carby model fans out there.
If anybody has any ideas of how to improve the way the heater element disk attaches to the bi-metal spring, do post some ideas, please.
Special thanks to Rodney(Yendor) for donating his valuable time with advice & tips during my effort to understand the mechanics+electrics behind the auto choke system in RB30 Patrol. Without his help, I would still be scratching my head.
Another method of gluing the heater disk to the bimetal spring assembly is using a paste similar to the factory silver paste as in the picture and as in the link below.
Then, if it's strengthened with epoxy glue, it may hold it. It's better to use longer curing time epoxy(like 24-48 hours) and not put it together and use it until the epoxy completely bond to the bi-metal spring.
Last edited by dom14; 12th November 2015 at 10:35 PM.
This is oil pressure sender unit test specifications from factory manual. This is for TB and TD engines, but I reckon its' the same for RB30 as well.
If not correct me.
Thanx
This is what I did to repair the Oil Pressure Sender of my RB30 Patrol.
BTW, I have to say, all these were required simply because I went to the trouble of opening up the sealed oil pressure sender to see what the problem inside.
When I opened it up, the interior was working fine.
It's basically the piston that pushes on the variable resistor coil, which has been getting stuck due to oil gunk that's been stuck inside the piston bore as well as the walls.
So, the best and easiest way to get this oil pressure sender to work again is to,
1)Spray carby cleaner or something similar from the oil entry hole and shake and shake off all the oil inside. Few high pressure sprays and few strong shakes will be required.
2) Attach a vacuum cleaner to the oil entry hole and suck all the gunk that's been stuck inside the bore over years.
Above two deeds alone will give new life back to your Oil Pressure Sender. The key is to remove all the oil grime inside the bore and walls. Once that's done, your old oil pressure sender will spring back to life. No more funny oil pressure readings on the dial on the dashboard.
All the trouble I went through wont' be necessary at all. I had to tear it down in order to understand the interior as well to investigate any possible electrical or mechanical issues inside.
New Oil Pressure Sender is sold for silly $130 or more. Even though it's a critical part of the engine oil warning system, fixing it like this when you can, makes sense to me.
And not to mention, it's damn fun exercise.
Cheers
P.S. Special thanks to Yendor(Rodney) for feeding me plenty of knowledge to understand the workings of this thing.
Last edited by dom14; 13th November 2015 at 10:57 PM.
Hey guys,
This is the setup I use to 'burp' a radiator.
All the thanks go to Mudnut(Craig).
I use the same setup to test for combustion gas leakage as well.
Hi Dom,
RE: Oil Pressure Sender Repair
How did you go about removing the sender from the block? I know its in a rubbish spot (next to the oil filter, right?)... Hands, monkey grips, filter wrench, stilson... !?
Cheers,
Chris
Hi Dom,
RE: Oil Pressure Sender Repair
How did you go about removing the sender from the block? I know its in a rubbish spot (next to the oil filter, right?)... Hands, monkey grips, filter wrench, stilson... !?
Cheers,
Chris
Hi mate,
Use a 17mm spanner. It's a tight fit, so I had to heat up the middle of spanner and bend it.
I used a LPG burner torch. You can also use an outdoor bbq burner. Attach the spanner to bench vice etc and then hit one end.
If you try to bend it without heating it is like to cause it to break.
Or if you have an arc welder, you can cut/break the spanner from the middle and weld it back in a bent shape.
Also grind the spanner fork ends to make it thinner, so it will go behind the sender unit easily.
So, basically you are making a tool.
You might be able to get in there with a short 17mm spanner if you have a one, without having to do all the above.
Give it a try. I used an el cheapo 17mm spanner to do the above, which I bought as a kit.
Last edited by dom14; 13th November 2015 at 11:46 AM.
I finally checked the economy since I had the headers fitted, the head plained, the carby heater grid removed, and disabled the Pre-Heat Flap diaphragm (warmer months only).
I got 13.4 lt/100km highway driving and 15.11 for light duty four wheeling. As a bonus for the extra ponies gained, it should only take 23500 km of highway driving to recoup the cost of the headers.
Originally Posted by Throbbinhood
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