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You can also cut few pieces of kitchen sponge cloth and glue it to the metal plate(the one with polyps), in between "polyps".Probably a quicker fix than the craftsmanship that I went for as above. Bit of trial and error with few pieces and add more as you go should work.
I've been suggested the below by the member "GeeYou8". I believe it's a better option for the material.
"A better choice might be the thin foam they put under floating floors, a hollow punch or wad punch will make nice neat round holes."
Tools:
14mm socket with longest extensions from the tool kit and the universal joint and ratchet.
14mm wrench/spanner.
Disconnect battery negative terminal
Disconnect the solenoid wire terminal to the starter
Unplug/disconnect the trigger wire to the starter
If it's RB30 EFI converted engine then there're more connectors to disconnect, so disconnect all of them.
Outside bolt is easily accessible from under the vehicle with the 14mm spanner/wrench
Inside one is hiding between the block and the starter motor, so you need to slide in the 14mm socket
attached extension under the inlet manifold from the front of the engine and use the ratchet to undo.
This is done by feeling rather than seeing, 'cos it's not that easy to see the bolt behind the starter.
Universal joint for the socket extension may be required at the ratchet end to get the access angle right.
Starter may drop after undoing the bolts so preparing for that may be necessary.
Overall, it's fairly easy and quick job to undo and fit the RB30 Patrol starter.
The bolts are usually not that tight to undo, unless somebody over tightened them previously. However, I recommend using a six point hex socket, rather than a common 12 point bi-hex socket.
Also be careful not to cross thread any of the bolts or else it will be big trouble due to the location.
Hand tighten the bolts before using wrench/spanner/ratchet.
This is not a bolt we can afford to accidentally end up rounding bolt head or damaging the thread of the hole.
I documented the process in this thread as well as all the dramas & precautions related to the installation in another thread.
All the links are in the main thread.
Below is the thread I opened up to deal with all the dramas I had while installing the uni joint.
It's a pretty handy thread for anybody to go through before installing a uni joint for the first time, as I've documented all the mishaps with detailed photos.
These are the diagram(s) of RB30 Patrol coolant flow. The second one is taken out of R31 Skyline(RB30 engine) coolant flow diagram and slightly modified to suit RB30 Patrol(carby) engine. Green indicates cooler water(low pressure) while the red indicates warmer water(high pressure) by the colour of the arrows.
Below is the link to the thread that lead me to investigate the coolant flow of the RB30 Patrol.
I'm quoting below post from another forum. It's about how to diagnose a fan clutch for any issues.
Fan Clutch test
First, lets discuss what the fan clutch does and why it is there. The fan clutch is just what the name says, it is a mechanism that will clutch the fan on and off depending on the need for more or less cooling air to flow thru the radiator. It is a thermostatically controlled device that when operating normally will vary the fan speed independently of the engine speed. When cruising down the road at freeway speeds, with outside temperature less then desert conditions, the fan should be merely be idling along, turning just fast enough to add a little air flow when needed, in this way the fan noise and drag on the engine is greatly reduced. When reducing speed, the fan clutch will sense higher temperatures thru the radiator and “clutch up” thereby increasing the fan speed to help maintain constant engine temperature. It may in fact, cycle as the temperature of the air thru the radiator changes depending on airflow. If the fan clutch operation is normal, when first starting the car, the fan clutch should “clutch up” and an increase in noise and airflow should be obvious. After about 60-90 seconds, the fan will un-clutch and the noise and airflow will drop. The fan will continue to turn but at a much reduced speed. As the engine warms and the thermostat opens to regulate the temperature, the air thru the radiator gets hotter and the clutch will sense this, thereby increasing the speed of the fan to maintain a normal operating temperature.
First signs of trouble:
A normal temperature indication at freeway speeds and an increasing temperature as the vehicle slows is one of the first indications of trouble. Many other things may give this indication but if the temperature seems to be stable at speeds but climbs in traffic or while stopped, this is a good indication that the fan clutch isn’t working correctly. As the temperature continues to climb, the auxiliary electric fan should start but may not provide enough air to keep the engine from overheating.
Another sign of trouble is if the fan noise is high and never decreases after starting, and is there anytime the engine RPM is higher then idle, this means that the fan clutch is “frozen” and is not releasing. Although this will not result in immediately serious trouble, it will load the engine continually and gas MPG will be reduced. Load on the fan belt(s) will be higher and shorten the life of that component also.
Fan modifications:
It has been suggested that other models of BMW fans can be substituted to reduce the noise and load of the fan. This is NOT recommended! If the fan clutch is working properly, there should be no need to replace with a lesser fan. The noise and load of the fan should only be there when it is “clutched up” and the fan speed needed to keep that big V-12 cool. BMW designed it this way and it is never a good idea to alter the cooling system and in particular where alloy engines would be effected.
Testing the fan clutch:
If you have reason to suspect that the fan clutch is defective, here is the recommended procedure to verify the condition of the fan clutch.
1. Start the car (cold) with the hood open and note if the fan is turning, increase the engine RPM and note if the fan turns faster and the noise increases, if it does, first good indication, if it does not increase speed/noise, clutch is bad and needs to be replaced. (Remember, this must be tested after the car has been off for and extended period, over night etc.)
2. Leave engine running and note if the fan starts to slow down after 2-5 minutes, speed/noise should diminish and even raising the RPM, the fan should not make as much noise as when first starting, if it does slow, this is the second good indication. If speed/noise does not decrease, clutch may be “frozen” and should be replaced.
3. Leave the engine idle and watch the temperature indicator. When normal operating temperature has been reached, some increase in fan speed/noise should be noted, in particular when the RPM is increased. If temperature is fairly stable and the fan noise/speed increases or cycles, third good indication. If temperature indication continues to increase, with no increase in fan noise/speed, clutch is defective and should be replaced.
4. After the engine is at normal operating temperature or above, is the only time that the “rolled up newspaper” test that many people talk about should be performed! Take some newspaper and roll it up into a long narrow tube. Be carefull, keep hands and fingers away from the fan while performing this test! With the engine at full operating temperature and idling, take the rolled up paper and insert it on the back side of the fan and try to reach the hub of the fan avoiding the blades until close to the hub. Push the rolled paper at the fan increasing the friction to the hub area of the fan. If the fan can not be stopped easily this is the fourth good indication, if it can be stopped the clutch is defective and should be replaced. Again, this test can only be performed when the engine is at or above full operating temperature.
Testing can be performed in any order but just make sure the conditions during testing are those that are specified for that specific test.
Do not continue to operate the engine if the temperature continues to rise and certainly stop if the temperature approaches “redline”.
After having fitted a Safari Snorkel, which connects to the standard dust separator, I have found some leaks in the system. A bit of silicon sealed the diaphragm housing.
The pre-heat flap was sucking a bit of air so using copper-based silicon, I glued a brass reducer that uses a brass plug, into the filter housing elbow. As you can see in the pictures below, it also fits into the stove pipe so appears stock.
This gives me the ability to take the plug out for the colder months. The reducer and plug only cost $5.40
Last edited by mudnut; 12th October 2016 at 07:52 PM.
I used Permatex Ultra Grey. I ffilled the groove on the rocker cover edge with the sealant
and squeezed in the rubber gasket. Then I also applied a layer of sealant on the cylinder head edge where rocker cover sits. I left it for about an hour to cure partially and get "tacky".
Then I fitted it and left it for couple of days to cure properly before starting the engine.
This is the link for Permatex Ultra Grey deal on ebay(pretty good deal).
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