DIY - TB45E turbo install

[Alitis007]

Cheers, I've already bought all the fittings and braided teflon hose. Using -4 for the oil, -6 for the water and -10 for the oil return.

Apart from the oil feed i used the same sizes of hose.

I look forward to the next installment mate, top notch work your producing btw!

[nissannewby]

Sweet, look forward to the rest of your posts then

Test & Tune at Willowbank before and after, will give you a great idea on how much more "overtaking" speed you will develop.

I have a nice td42 package I have recently completed could be a good comparison.

[jff45]

I have a nice td42 package I have recently completed could be a good comparison.

I can't imagine what you'd want to compare between the 2 different engines. Mine is a sub $4k project running 0.3 bar boost.. And it's an auto..

[nissannewby]

I can't imagine what you'd want to compare between the 2 different engines. Mine is a sub $4k project running 0.3 bar boost.. And it's an auto..

Just differences in setups etc. I'm not saying the td would win as a manual is very slow compared to the auto.

[jff45]

Just differences in setups etc. I'm not saying the td would win as a manual is very slow compared to the auto.

Win??
Were you talking about comparing them down the strip at Willowbank?
Mate, I'm a 68 year old grandfather. You'd be halfway down the strip before I'd even realised the lights had changed, LOL!
Apart from that, I can't think of much else that would interest me less than drag racing a Patrol

You win, no worries! LOL!

[jff45]

Some small details..

I had a small issue with the inlet pipe touching the cruise control cable so I decided to drop the cable a little but the front bolt of the bracket was under the cable.




I welded a small piece of flat bar to the original bracket so I could use the mounting hole further forward. This allowed me to file the fork down and gained almost 10mm.






Another small issue was the pipe leading to the throttle body hitting the injector connectors. Simple fix - turn 2 & 3 around 180 degrees.
The vacuum hose from the canister was also across the path of the pipe so rather than force it down under where it would rub against the pipe, I simply added a 1/8 BSPT M/F elbow - $5 from Masters.

[jff45]

Catch can..

Time will tell if this is really necessary on a reasonably low mileage petrol engine but I had to modify one the original PCV hoses anyway so why not run it through a device that could condense any oil vapour.
On top of that, it adds a bright shiny item under the bonnet

PCV mod is pretty easy to do on the 4.5. You leave the original rear hose to the PCV valve in place - although I did shorten the elbow for more clearance with the fan. The PCV valve will act as a check valve under boost.
The front hose on the rocker cover is routed to the catch can and another hose from the catch can to the intake pipe between MAF and turbo compressor.

Connected in this manner, the PCV valve works normally under vacuum while the intake air for the engine is drawn through the catch can from the intake pipe between MAF and turbo compressor where it has already been measured by the MAF.
Under boost, the PCV valve will close and any pressure building in the crankcase can exit via the air intake on the rocker cover where it will pass through the catch can and into the pre-turbo intake again.
As the meerkat would say, simples!

This is the $38 Ebay knock off I bought. It's cheap because it has nothing in it which also means it won't catch much because the vapour will go in and straight back out via the 2nd hole.
It does have a sight tube on the side and an oil drain plug.



Very easy to make this work a bit better. We need a baffle to force the vapour to take a longer route. I had some scrap stainless sheet offcuts from my DIY heatshield so I made this:



We also need some medium to condense any oil vapour. Don't listen to those who say use steel wool - it crumbles into fine steel dust that is easily airborne.
I had some Bunnings aluminium flashing left over so I cut a few pigtails with tin snips. These are big enough so they can't get sucked into the system and have enough surface area to condense the vapour - that's my theory anyway..







Almost forgot, this is where I fitted it..

[jff45]

As mentioned, I chose the low mount to ensure there'd be enough room for the larger IC. I'm thinking it should also result in less engine bay temps down there but I decided to make a heatshield for it anyway. Radiant heat could be significant when it needs to pull hard.

A stainless steel 'mini sheet' from Bunnings is just the right length. Cost $48.
It cuts easily with a hand nibbler and good tinsnips. I didn't want to weld it with the MIG so I just used a couple of 5mm stainless pop rivets on the corners. They're pretty strong - I had to put lengths of pipe on my pop rivet pliers to be able to snap the stalks.

I first welded some additional tabs onto the manifold for the heatshield. I had the manifold made in Tassie. $400 delivered. I doubt I could make it for that money.. and I could never weld that well anyway!




Heatshield pics and how it fits on the manifold:







I had some offcuts so I made up this piece that fits between the compressor housing and the manifold.
Not sure it will really do anything so no comments, please, on that one..
You can see where it fits in the above manifold pic.

[scottmeister]

The -3 feed line was recommended to me by another workshop and also recommended by the local Garrett dealer aswell after i enquired about it while i was installing a TO4Z On my toy but saying that i didn't run an inline filter. Those fittings are readily available at speed shops like Rocket and VPW and even hose and fittings specialists like Enzed and Pirtex

It would still be a good idea to utilise a restriction orifice. By supplying only just as much oil as is needed, you reduce bearing windage and thus experience significantly improved spool speeds. By all means -3AN is better than -4AN, but I imagine the bearings are seeing too much volume AND pressure than is required by some excess. It also reduces the risk blowing oil through the seals if a pressure spike is seen for whatever reason (i.e. cold start, new heavier oil, over-rev...).

[jff45]

Here are some different pics of the turbo itself showing how I'm doing the oil feed line and how it connects behind the turbo.

The oil feed can be taken from the block just under the 6th exhaust outlet. It's a 1/8 BSPT thread and the adapter for -4AN connector is easy to find.
I bought all my fittings and braided hoses from Ebay. Good quality and way less than the Aeroflow/Speedflow etc prices here.

Also using a Kinugawa wastgate actuator. They have adjustable length, replaceable membrane and a choice of different springs to set base boost level.
I made the actuator support bracket with a shock absorber washer and some flat bar welded to part of the original support.
As mentioned, I'm starting with 0.3 bar. If I want to go slightly higher later, I'll probably do it with a boost controller.

The water inlet feed can also be taken from the block. There's a 1/4 BSPT plug in the block for emptying coolant. I'm planning to 'T' into the heater return for the return flow.