Jay see 1997 GU build up

[jay see]

Oh I forgot.

The inspection guy didn't pick up on the steering damper being completely gone. I have ordered a new efs one..

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[jay see]

Well I'm done.

Trailing arms and a/c are getting done next week. I managed to do everything else.

Fired it up and once it got to temp I now have the low oil pressure light on, bring the revs up to about 1200 rpm and beyond and it goes out. I can hear tappet noise when the light is on.
I changed my oil with 20 50 and filter no difference. I've had the air intake off, changed the oil pressure switch and the rocket cover gasket over the last few days.


I've never had that light come on before.

Any ideas.

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[mudski]

Oh I forgot.

The inspection guy didn't pick up on the steering damper being completely gone. I have ordered a new efs one..

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Haha mine fell off during my recent trip up to SW QLD. I drove another 2000ks without it on. Couldn’t even tell.


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[mudski]

Well I'm done.

Trailing arms and a/c are getting done next week. I managed to do everything else.

Fired it up and once it got to temp I now have the low oil pressure light on, bring the revs up to about 1200 rpm and beyond and it goes out. I can hear tappet noise when the light is on.
I changed my oil with 20 50 and filter no difference. I've had the air intake off, changed the oil pressure switch and the rocket cover gasket over the last few days.


I've never had that light come on before.

Any ideas.

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Take the rocker cover off and start the engine up. If oil squirts everywhere you have a dodgy switch. Or put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge in and go with that.


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[jay see]

Now I'm pretty sure that this is wrong and now is the time to fix it.

I have a 10 blade fuse box and a 120amp breaker with 4 awg cable.

You can see that everything is pretty close.

At the most I'll be running 2 fridges, a freezer, the little 12v oven (while the car is driving)and then it's lights and charging points. If I was to assume 10 amp per slot = 100 amp breaker. I know that I'm not at 10 amp for every slot, so will a 70 amp breaker work and what size cable should I be using.

While I'm on the topic, sort of..

Is this worth it. It pwm not mppt.

[Brissieboy]

You need to make sure that a short circuit at the end of the run is sufficient to trip the breaker. With a 12V supply and a 70A breaker that means a total fault circuit resistance (battery + to battery -) is less than 0.17 ohms (Ohms law R = E/I). It is the resistance that drives what size cable you should use, but bigger is usually better where 12V is concerned. The low value fuses will protect individual circuits (assuming similar principles are applied) but that big breaker needs to protect the main power buss. And it should be as close as possible to the battery.

[jay see]

You need to make sure that a short circuit at the end of the run is sufficient to trip the breaker. With a 12V supply and a 70A breaker that means a total fault circuit resistance (battery + to battery -) is less than 0.17 ohms (Ohms law R = E/I). It is the resistance that drives what size cable you should use, but bigger is usually better where 12V is concerned. The low value fuses will protect individual circuits (assuming similar principles are applied) but that big breaker needs to protect the main power buss. And it should be as close as possible to the battery.

Cheers mate.

I do understand what you're saying to a certain extent. I know how it should all work, just don't understand the values. Your equation of Ohms law went flying over my head..

Thanks for your input..

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[jay see]

Okay brainiacs need some help here.

How can I mount the fridge securely. It's going to sit on the gray plate so even if it's securely mounted to that, it's only two bolts at the front to remove the whole thing.

The case only has the four eyelets on each corner and the handles are molded.

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[10G]

If the fridge has handles, tie it down with them. You could connect the strap you use to connect to the 2 bolts at the front and someplace at the rear. If you just tie down the front you may find the fridge bounces up and down fron those 2 front bolts.

I wouldn't trust the tie downs on the bag, the bag will just rip I reckon.

[10G]

Now I'm pretty sure that this is wrong and now is the time to fix it.

I have a 10 blade fuse box and a 120amp breaker with 4 awg cable.

You can see that everything is pretty close.

At the most I'll be running 2 fridges, a freezer, the little 12v oven (while the car is driving)and then it's lights and charging points. If I was to assume 10 amp per slot = 100 amp breaker. I know that I'm not at 10 amp for every slot, so will a 70 amp breaker work and what size cable should I be using.

While I'm on the topic, sort of..

Is this worth it. It pwm not mppt.

I'm pretty sure in the past I used a similar setup protecting a similar load and my main cct breaker was only 60 amps.

And as BrissieBoy said, keep all your fuses as close to the battery as possible.