Jay see 1997 GU build up

[Hodge]

Sorry to gatecrash JaySee.
@Ben-e-boy Whats your thoughts on them Autoreset breakers, from Jaycar from example?
Where would you apply them ( if at all) , instead of your regular reset-able breakers?



https://www.jaycar.com.au/chassis-mo...12vdc/p/SF4102

I have 2 in 2 different circuits. Each circuit also has a fuse with same rating as the breaker (30A).
And I've tested them with current and direct to ground contact and they trip instantly, and kick back in when fault clears. Fuse does not blow, these breakers trip faster than the fuse-out.

[Ben-e-boy]

Sorry to gatecrash JaySee.
@Ben-e-boy Whats your thoughts on them Autoreset breakers, from Jaycar from example?
Where would you apply them ( if at all) , instead of your regular reset-able breakers?



https://www.jaycar.com.au/chassis-mo...12vdc/p/SF4102

I have 2 in 2 different circuits. Each circuit also has a fuse with same rating as the breaker (30A).
And I've tested them with current and direct to ground contact and they trip instantly, and kick back in when fault clears. Fuse does not blow, these breakers trip faster than the fuse-out.

I'm not the biggest fan. If stuff is tripping out, its doing it for a reason. Even at work we generally dont auto reset anything. There is always the possibility of it frequently trying to close in on a fault without anyone realizing until something is completly rooted.

If I was to use one it'll be on a compressor or something not regularly used, but worked hard when it is. If for whatever reason you need to pump up the tyres of multiple rigs and work it pretty hard it'll trip when its had enough and reset when it's good and ready

[Mickhead]

How much current you can continuously run through a cable depends on 1. Is it cu or al. 2. What is its cross sectional area. 3. How is it routed? Eg.Under the carpet? 4. What material is the insulation made of?
Look at the Olex cable handbook.
Personally if I had 4ga cable running in my car protected by a 120A breaker, I would not stress unless I was pulling 120A thru it for hours on end.On a hot day.
But that is my opinion, make your own mind up.

[jay see]

Next little project is to permanently fit this.

The $5 shovel will live in the back of the patrol.

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[jay see]

With all the shut downs I've got a few free weekends. Soccer is off for at least 4 weeks and my nephew's wedding was meant to be today.

This has given me the opportunity to fit my console fridge.

Using the existing bracket at the back of the console, I cut about 10mm off where my finger is. Made up two blocks to raise it 20mm so it will sit level. The gray plate is made out of 3mm and the top is screwed down under where the ashtray was. This also holds the gear shift surrounding down. Cut slot with a cutting disk and brought a strap from Bunnings.

So far $479 for the fridge and $6.60 for the strap.

I've got enough room between the drivers seat and the fridge, so I'll relocate the 12v plugs that were behind the console with some 1.6mm that will run from the handbrake to the back of the fridge.

I want to have it permanently wired to a switch and then to my fuse block. Will cutting off the 12v cig plug and rewiring work.

Other thing is I'll end up with 6 rocker switchs how difficult is it to run a bank where the sunglass holder is? I know that there is a write ups, but has anyone done it and how hard was it?


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[jay see]

Made up some templates today. Will see if I can make them out of 1.6 sheet at work.

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[rusty_nail]

Made up some templates today. Will see if I can make them out of 1.6 sheet at work.

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looking great mate, i had the same setup in my patrol. fyi, under the fridge there are some grub screws for permanent mounting. not sure if your design allows for access to those screw holes but one thing i did notice is the seam between the top and bottom part of the fridge started to seperate when i had the strap firmly tightened.

edit: i can see yours is already separating in the last pic.

[jay see]

looking great mate, i had the same setup in my patrol. fyi, under the fridge there are some grub screws for permanent mounting. not sure if your design allows for access to those screw holes but one thing i did notice is the seam between the top and bottom part of the fridge started to seperate when i had the strap firmly tightened.

edit: i can see yours is already separating in the last pic.

Thanks Nic. What fridge have you got. I had a good look underneath when I got it because that's how I wanted to fit it, but didn't see any screws at all. I might see if I can get some 10-20mm thick form from work and sit it between the plate and the fridge. Maybe that way I can back off the strap a little.

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[rusty_nail]

Thanks Nic. What fridge have you got. I had a good look underneath when I got it because that's how I wanted to fit it, but didn't see any screws at all. I might see if I can get some 10-20mm thick form from work and sit it between the plate and the fridge. Maybe that way I can back off the strap a little.

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Same one mate, cdf11 I think. Now that I think of it i probably just screwed into the the bottom of it. I'll have a look underneath to clarify bud

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[jay see]

I'm a bit hesitant to do that.

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