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Thread: Jay see 1997 GU build up

  1. #671
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    Quote Originally Posted by jay see View Post
    Okay brainiacs need some help here.

    How can I mount the fridge securely. It's going to sit on the gray plate so even if it's securely mounted to that, it's only two bolts at the front to remove the whole thing.

    The case only has the four eyelets on each corner and the handles are molded.

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    A few of us, led by @MudRunnerTD, have utilised old rear seat frames that mount to the existing points in the car, then put the plate you show welded to the frame. This gives you an air gap under the fridge for further storage and opens up the range of mounting concepts. I would use a thimble with a threaded male extension - can get them at Bunnings for a couple of dollars each - I think the M8 units are rated at 230kg each point. Simply drill a hole in the sheet steel and bolt them in, nuts accessible as well, rather than on the floor and rubbing holes in the carpet. You should be able to buy an old crappy seat off gumtree and strip the base and back off it, @AB might be able to post up his solution, recently completed. I have platforms made for both sides of the GQ.

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  4. #672
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    Here's the stand I use for my Engel. The stand connects to a mount in the floor underneath it and the shelf behind it.

    I use straps through the handles which go around the frame of the strand.

    engel-stand-1.png

    engel-stand-2.png
    ..

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    BrazilianY60 (9th April 2024), jay see (8th April 2024), PeeBee (8th April 2024)

  6. #673
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10G View Post
    If the fridge has handles, tie it down with them. You could connect the strap you use to connect to the 2 bolts at the front and someplace at the rear. If you just tie down the front you may find the fridge bounces up and down fron those 2 front bolts.

    I wouldn't trust the tie downs on the bag, the bag will just rip I reckon.
    The handles are moulded and pretty flat 1st pic.

    Thinking of something like 2nd pic screwed into the handle area and then 3rd pic into the plate.



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  7. #674
    Legendary jay see's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10G View Post
    I'm pretty sure in the past I used a similar setup protecting a similar load and my main cct breaker was only 60 amps.

    And as BrissieBoy said, keep all your fuses as close to the battery as possible.
    I've changed the breaker to 60 amp and 5 amp fuses in the block (charging ports)except for the console fridge 10 amp and radio 10 amp as stated in the original car fuse.

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  8. #675
    Legendary jay see's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 10G View Post

    And as BrissieBoy said, keep all your fuses as close to the battery as possible.
    Should I bring the fuses closer to the breaker, it's about 200mm at the moment.

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  9. #676
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    Quote Originally Posted by jay see View Post
    Should I bring the fuses closer to the breaker, it's about 200mm at the moment.

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    No. That is good solid cable and not exposed to potential damage so it is OK as is.

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  11. #677
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brissieboy View Post
    No. That is good solid cable and not exposed to potential damage so it is OK as is.
    Good to hear that I got it right.

    Thanks for the reply..

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    Yep, the thing to look out for is whether the cable between the battery and the fuse is likely to interfere with anything else and cause a short. You could have the two seperated by a mile if you know that nothing is going to cause a short along that mile of cable, or in other words, between the battery and fuse.
    ..

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  15. #679
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    You kinda get the idea. The hook in the 2nd pic is screwed in from the top because I wasn't sure how the self tapping screws would go. If I need to I can drill out the holes and nut and bolt it. It's pretty tight with the water tank, but it all fits.

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    Cool tank, what brand is that & capacity?
    ..

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