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11th February 2011, 01:10 PM
#1
Beginner
GU Lift
Looking at getting a lift kit for my GU. was thinking 4". is it just a matter of putting in new springs & shocks or am I going to have to extend brake lines too ? is there any other problems i might run into ?
also are the springs and shocks the same as GQ as i have access to a 2nd hand kit that someone had on their GQ for about a year.
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11th February 2011 01:10 PM
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11th February 2011, 01:35 PM
#2
Banned
Originally Posted by
veeate
Looking at getting a lift kit for my GU. was thinking 4". is it just a matter of putting in new springs & shocks or am I going to have to extend brake lines too ? is there any other problems i might run into ?
also are the springs and shocks the same as GQ as i have access to a 2nd hand kit that someone had on their GQ for about a year.
Hey mate
For 4" you'll need the:
Springs
Shocks
Caster correction kit (3-4 degrees)
Extended brake lines
Panhard rods
Rear lower control arms (possibly upper also - not sure)
Extended sway bar link pins
Probably would want to get these also as your steering will be out of centre and you won't be able to re-centre etc:
Adjustable drag link
Adjustable steering arm
You may be able to keep the front radius arms, but will probably need drop boxes - probably better to get new ones and that may offset the need for caster correction also.
Others - have I forgotten anything??
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11th February 2011, 01:43 PM
#3
Beginner
ok...didnt realise all that would need doing :S not really keen on changing half the front end..... how high could i go with just a spring & shockie upgrade ??
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11th February 2011, 02:33 PM
#4
Banned
Originally Posted by
veeate
ok...didnt realise all that would need doing :S not really keen on changing half the front end..... how high could i go with just a spring & shockie upgrade ??
About 2 inches mate - that will still put a bit of strain on the sway bar links (just because the sway bars will be getting pulled upwards by the pins) and the steering wheel will still be off centre, but you shouldn't need casters or anything else.
You'll need an adjustable steering arm if you want to centre the wheel - don't just move the wheel on the steering stem splines as the box will still be off centre and you'll lose left lock (i.e. The steering will turn more turns to right lock than left lock as the box is off centre) - no biggie though for a 50mm lift - most people just live with it I guess.
Good luck whichever way you go!! Male sure you throw up some happy snaps of before and after!!!
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11th February 2011, 02:46 PM
#5
Beginner
great! thanks for that info.. gives me a heaps better idea of wat im up for.
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11th February 2011, 03:10 PM
#6
Expert
The cost starts compounding once you go over 2 inches!
I think 3 is a good happy medium, for this you will need
springs
shocks
caster correction (either offset bushes, radius arms or drop boxes, I will be getting the latter when I do mine)
longer lower rear trailing arms or the coils can rub on the shocks
extended rear sway bar pins (+ plus front of you just use bushes, pretty sure you cant run a front sway bar with drop boxes)
longer brake lines
All this can be had for under 2k delivered. I plan on getting the superflex kit
http://www.zordos4wdsuspension.com.a...d=49&Itemid=53
Best to get new panhards, draglink etc which I will end up doing but not essential to begin with
Last edited by GUte; 11th February 2011 at 03:25 PM.
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11th February 2011, 06:07 PM
#7
Originally Posted by
Bigrig
Hey mate
For 4" you'll need the:
Springs
Shocks
Caster correction kit (3-4 degrees)
Extended brake lines
Panhard rods
Rear lower control arms (possibly upper also - not sure)
Extended sway bar link pins
Probably would want to get these also as your steering will be out of centre and you won't be able to re-centre etc:
Adjustable drag link
Adjustable steering arm
You may be able to keep the front radius arms, but will probably need drop boxes - probably better to get new ones and that may offset the need for caster correction also.
Others - have I forgotten anything??
Settle down Scott, technical is my area mate! You answered that very well.
Tony
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11th February 2011, 06:42 PM
#8
Legendary
Originally Posted by
GUte
The cost starts compounding once you go over 2 inches!
I think 3 is a good happy medium, for this you will need
springs
shocks
caster correction (either offset bushes, radius arms or drop boxes, I will be getting the latter when I do mine)
longer lower rear trailing arms or the coils can rub on the shocks
extended rear sway bar pins (+ plus front of you just use bushes, pretty sure you cant run a front sway bar with drop boxes)
longer brake lines
All this can be had for under 2k delivered. I plan on getting the superflex kit
http://www.zordos4wdsuspension.com.a...d=49&Itemid=53
Best to get new panhards, draglink etc which I will end up doing but not essential to begin with
I agree with GUte, 3" is just a nice height without costs going through the roof..
I just a couple of days ago installed a 3" ridepro lift for about $1500..
That was:
Springs
Shocks
Longer Brake lines
Caster
Steering Dampner
Front bump stop extensions
Car rides absolutely beautiful, just need a Draglink to center steering wheel now..
Depends on what your budget is and how high you really want to go
Fletcha
Qualified Auto-Electrician
Apprentice Sparky
Dont own a Patrol or any 4WD at the moment, hopefully will change into the future
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11th February 2011, 07:07 PM
#9
Expert
Good thread. i was intended to ask the same question with my wishes to build the truck someday like that..
I have also some questions, and they better be joined with some pics.
But here my first question (it may be well explained in up posts, but i don`t see it):
When done lift axles should be go closer to the center of the car. This will lead up to kick the tires in the fender because of displacement. How do you solve this problem?
I can see at a forum in Bg that cut wings, which for me could not be solution.
I'll try to paint (or show in pics) what I described.
GR; Y61; 1998; RD28TDI; MANUAL TRANSMISSION;
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11th February 2011, 07:17 PM
#10
When you lift a Patrol the swing of the control arms does pull the axles towards the centre of the car (looking side on). As the suspension gets compressed the control arms will push the axles back torwards their normal position.
If you want to push the axles back towards their normal position with raised suspension you can fit adjustable control arms to the rear, and drop boxes or radius arms spacers on the front. The down side being that when the suspension is compressed up the axles will now be pushed further towards the ends of the vehicle than normal.
Tony
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to YNOT For This Useful Post:
big_fletch (11th February 2011), Clunk (16th February 2011), damianovdd (11th February 2011)