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I run that exact meter on all my Solar installations.
I'v used them now for over 2 years and yet to have one fail. Extremely handy little meter and I wouldn't be without them.
My only criticisms are that they have no mounting provision (velcro on the back works a treat) and the fly leads are a tad short.
I hard wire mine but they will adapt to Anderson or any other plug application equally well.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
I have a 50amp Anderson on the bull bar to my AUX battery.
Now I can plug this unit in line with my Panel and see whats happening ,
don't you love gauges.
Last edited by threedogs; 23rd April 2014 at 02:19 PM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
We use an exact same unit called a watts up meter for the rc..
150A rated for low to high (50v) usage..
Most common brand is turnigy, and more than half that price.. Just need plugs
They are good little meters provided those buying them recognise the meters’ limitations & have the understanding of how best to use them. They will tell you, depending upon where they are connected how many amps are coming in or going out .... in real time, as well as solar voltage &/or battery voltage in real time. This is useful info, but for those who want a meter to give a relatively accurate reading of a battery’s State of Charge an ammeter with a shunt is needed. The difference is that this will record amps in & amps out & with the capacity of the battery dialled in by the owner will calculate the battery’s SoC. There is no 100% accurate means of monitoring a battery because chemical reactions are affected by a number of variables, but such a monitor is the best anyone can do. However as I said, & for a lot less money, those little meters can be quite helpful once the user knows how & when to interpret the readouts with familiarity. They can also be bought far cheaper without the Anderson plugs attached. .... (Ah, I see TD has found those).
The cheapest battery monitor with a shunt that I am aware of is the one I have in my Patrol. They are available in Oz, but can be bought from the UK for less, including postage. I bought half a dozen as a group buy on another forum & got them for $140 each delivered about 18 months ago. (saved on postage & paid no VAT/GST) http://www.foxsonline.com/cgi-bin/sh...R#aNNBM1C_2dGR Not suggesting that everyone should have one, but I do think it worthwhile to counter some of the advertising I have seen, particularly aimed at unwary 4wd’ers, selling volt meters as battery monitors. (Advertisers who have no connection to any posters here I hasten to add.)
Cuppa
Ps. By coincidence I have written about the exact same thing to a forum member here via PM in the last day or two).
Last edited by Cuppa; 23rd April 2014 at 11:50 PM.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare) A Nomadic Life (Blog)
Originally Posted by threedogs
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