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4th April 2014, 07:31 PM
#21
should have got a ctek ... connect 4 wires and your done lmao
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4th April 2014 07:31 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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4th April 2014, 07:38 PM
#22
I am he, fear me
Originally Posted by
megatexture
should have got a ctek ... connect 4 wires and your done lmao
ROFL... now you tell him
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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4th April 2014, 07:56 PM
#23
Originally Posted by
the evil twin
ROFL... now you tell him
I'm not ROFL'ing...
You have explained how to switch between chargers, Cuppa's enligtened me on switching between dc-dc and solar on the BCDC. The only thing now thats got me is how to get the ignition wire over to the relay.
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4th April 2014, 08:52 PM
#24
Does your vehicle already have the charge circuit wired down the back? If so how is this wired? are you currently using a smart solenoid? do you have a second battery under the bonnet? if so how is this wired regarding the smart solenoid?
Are pins 2 & 5 used in your trailer plug?
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4th April 2014, 09:22 PM
#25
I am he, fear me
Originally Posted by
mudski
snip...
The only thing now thats got me is how to get the ignition wire over to the relay.
Wireless?
Blutooth?
Wormhole?
Sorry, couldn't resist...
The reason for the Changeover relay is to stop the BCDC from discharging the Cranker.
Put a VSR in place of the Relay, more expensive than a changeover relay but no ign wiring req'd.
Vehicle running - VSR allows circuit to the BCDC
Vehicle stopped - VSR will drop out when Cranker voltage drops below set point and BCDC will have no input other than Solar if connected
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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4th April 2014, 09:27 PM
#26
Travelling Podologist
mudski my old fruit, sorry if i 'sounded' frustrated, words alone are not the best medium for conveying mood. I assure you there was no frustration, i was just trying to explain the reason for the changeover relay in Redarc's diagram.
Yes, i did mean fixed, as in permanently mounted. As you are not intending to have permanently mounted panels, the automatic switch over would not be of much value to you. Therefore you don't need the relay at all.
With the bcdc mounted in your camper all you need is a two way switch instead. (Essentially you become the 'human changeover relay' )
From BCDC the red wire goes to the andersen plug. (Crank battery +ve)
From the BCDC the Black wire goes to the andersen plug (crank battery -ve)
When driving, the car is connected to the camper's andersen plug.
When camped the car is disconnected & instead the solar panels are connected to the camper,s andersen plug. So then solar +ve is connected to the red wire & solar -ve is connected to the black wire.
A two way switch is required in the camper on the BCDC's blue wire. When charging from the car the switch connects the blue wire to the red wire. When charging from solar the switch connects the blue wire to the black wire.
two issues with this setup.
1. If you forget to switch over your batteries don't get charged.
2. You should always flick the switch when nothing is connected to the andersen plug just to be safe (ensuring you are not switching with a load connected)
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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4th April 2014, 09:30 PM
#27
Originally Posted by
the evil twin
Wireless?
Blutooth?
Wormhole?
Sorry, couldn't resist...
The reason for the Changeover relay is to stop the BCDC from discharging the Cranker.
Put a VSR in place of the Relay, more expensive than a changeover relay but no ign wiring req'd.
Vehicle running - VSR allows circuit to the BCDC
Vehicle stopped - VSR will drop out when Cranker voltage drops below set point and BCDC will have no input other than Solar if connected
Great minds think a like hey.
He would still need to use the change over relay if he does decide to use the VSR. The blue wire going to the BCDC needs to change from a positive when charging via the vehicle to a negative when charging via solar.
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4th April 2014, 09:45 PM
#28
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
the evil twin
The reason for the Changeover relay is to stop the BCDC from discharging the Cranker.
In mudski's camper once switched to solar a different 'earth' is being used, so i can't see how there would be a circuit to discharge the cranker. The relay is only to provide 'automatic' switching between inputs.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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4th April 2014, 09:48 PM
#29
Originally Posted by
Yendor
Does your vehicle already have the charge circuit wired down the back? If so how is this wired? are you currently using a smart solenoid? do you have a second battery under the bonnet? if so how is this wired regarding the smart solenoid?
Are pins 2 & 5 used in your trailer plug?
Ok. The setup on the car is simple. One cranking battery and one aux battery connected via a Redarc Sbi12 (I think its called). I have an anderson plug down the back connected to the cranking battery. All the seven wires are used in the trailer plug as I have electric brakes on the trailer.
Currently, or how the trailer setup was, is I would connect the solar up directly to the trailers anderson plug, as my current panels have the contoller on the back of the panel. This part I am changing when I get another 12v panel or modify my 24v panels.
Last edited by mudski; 4th April 2014 at 09:54 PM.
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4th April 2014, 10:04 PM
#30
So can I assume that I still need the relay for the switching between the mains charger and DCBC??
And, as per Cuppa's comments I don't need the relay to switch between solar and car charging? Just a manual switch? Which I dont mind doing.
I really appreciate all this info from you guys. I could easily just pay an auto lecky to do this but then i wouldn't know how it all works. I still don't, lol but it would be great to actually have a write up with diagrams as a sticky here for others to use.
Thanks.
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