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7th April 2014, 11:32 PM
#51
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
the evil twin
3. If only one charger is active IE you either have solar OR mains then there is no issue.
This was my assumption about mudski's intended use when I posted my uncharacteristally short post.
Even if mains & solar were connected to the camper batteries at the same time the worst that would happen is that some of the input would be wasted. The batteries would still get charged. Personally I see no real advantage in using a relay for the mains charger. Not having the mains charger permanently mounted gives a lot more flexibility. It can charge the crank battery alone, the crank & camper batteries together, or the camper batteries alone. It can also charge the mower battery, the motorcycle battery or whatever. If permanently wired with a relay as pictured in the diagram (i'm not sure if it's right or not btw mudski, i get confused about the pin numbers on relays) it could only charge the camper batteries.
Those earths shown would of course connect to the batteries neg terminal.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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7th April 2014 11:32 PM
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8th April 2014, 01:25 AM
#52
I didn't end up going that way anyhow with the relay. Seeing that I don't need it what is the point of putting it in...Anyhow, seems to charge via mains, just have to test out the BCDC tomorrow if I get sunlight.
Originally Posted by
Cuppa
Those earths shown would of course connect to the batteries neg terminal.
Yeah I just got lazy with the picture... 
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17th April 2014, 05:32 PM
#53
Just like to add that I have recently returned from a four day camping trip. The camper running two 105AH batteries were running a water pump, 75L Engel Combo fridge/freezer (kept at a chilly -11c) and four LED strip lights, it lasted the whole time without a top up charge. By the time we packed up and left the batteries were only down to 12.2V. Effing happy with that.
Thanks to all who had their input in this. I can't thank you guys enough. Now to get some real solar panels....
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17th April 2014, 10:12 PM
#54
Did you put a multimeter on your solar panels on the 3 points? I'm just curious to see what the reading were if they had a common earth and possibly the outers being positive.
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18th April 2014, 05:55 PM
#55
Originally Posted by
megatexture
Did you put a multimeter on your solar panels on the 3 points? I'm just curious to see what the reading were if they had a common earth and possibly the outers being positive.
Hahaha! Between last week and now there has been zero sunshine. Doesn't matter now. Sold'em and what I got for them has paid for the new panel in full. Win!
Last edited by mudski; 18th April 2014 at 06:00 PM.
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20th April 2014, 10:01 PM
#56
Hardcore
Im running same redarc on my car with 200w panel my batt stays full 99% of the time ive sat my car up for 3 weeks fridge running none stop at -1. I had an old panel that wasnt sufficient. You need to hit the redarc at a minimum of 18v vmp which is something thats not told in the book
IF ITS NOT BROKEN IT MUST BE A PATROL
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