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Thread: Confusion?? Help appreciated 2" Lift for 2002 GU II

  1. #11
    Advanced Ironman 4x4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tikashooter View Post
    1/ castor correction, would this be advisable to get and to negate any potential handling issues?
    No mate on a GU you shouldn't need castor correction until you go to a 3-4" lift.

    Quote Originally Posted by tikashooter View Post
    3/ steering dampener replacement, it probably is original.
    Always a good idea to upgrade this after the first 100,000km, especially if it's still factory. Whilst it may still be doing it's job, if you add muddies or bigger tyres it won't be as effective as an aftermarket unit.

    Quote Originally Posted by tikashooter View Post
    4/ I want to clarify what bushes that should be checked / replaced?
    Short answer. All of them. Longer answer. I'd start off with your bushes in the front. Tie rod, panhard, drag link, sway bar. I'd also get your wheel bearings checked and tightened if needed.
    On the rear, I'd get your upper and lower trailing arms checked for their bushes along with the panhard at the rear.

    Quote Originally Posted by tikashooter View Post
    5/ any recommendations to which lift kit I should be considering and from where?
    We do a range of lift kits for the GU's. Based off your stated needs and mods our constant load kits would suit you well. And you would have a choice between our foam cell and nitro gas shocks (I'd probably go Foam Cell if you plan to take it offroad much). We also do extra like steering dampers, adjustable drag links etc. A well matched kit of ours will provide an excellent ride, both on and off-road.

    Quote Originally Posted by tikashooter View Post
    6/ what is the maximum rated payload I can achieve with upgrade or is there no change?
    Your GVM won't change as a result of doing a suspension upgrade. A GVM upgrade is something different (essentially a suspension upgrade with an engineering certificate). What a suspension upgrade will do is allow you to carry that weight more easily, providing a better ride and control, without the sagging you would otherwise get with stock springs - plus you get better clearance and flex as a result of the lift!

    If you have any other questions I can help out with, give me a yell, either in the thread or via PM.

    Cheers,

    Matt
    Ironman 4x4

  2. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Ironman 4x4 For This Useful Post:

    MudRunnerTD (7th May 2014), threedogs (8th May 2014), tikashooter (7th May 2014)

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  4. #12
    Expert tikashooter's Avatar
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    Thanks Matt,

    Is it advisable to have the majority of my gear that I cart around when I'm off road in the patrol when I get "fitted" with an suspension upgrade, or
    just bring the patrol in and get the largest constant load kit that can be fitted.

  5. #13
    Advanced Ironman 4x4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tikashooter View Post
    Thanks Matt,

    Is it advisable to have the majority of my gear that I cart around when I'm off road in the patrol when I get "fitted" with an suspension upgrade, or
    just bring the patrol in and get the largest constant load kit that can be fitted.
    It's always more ideal if you get you fitting done with the gear on the vehicle. It assists the suspension fitters in being able to calculate loads (even better if you can go to a weight bridge and weigh every corner individually! But saying that if your loads vary and you have a particular ride that you wish to achieve or a particular type of driving you want the vehicle tooled to, then that is also the time to explain that to the suspension fitters so that they can optimise the kit choice based off your desires for the outcome.

    It's not always about just getting the heaviest kit. There are times where that is a bad choice as it will be too harsh a ride and too stiff. Correctly matched springs to your loads and also the type of drive you desire is important.

    For example I really enjoy a lightly heavier rated set of springs on the rear of my GU. It helps provide a more controlled ride on road (with less body roll than a really soft spring of equivelent ride height) and also helps force the front end to flex, plus when I go on extended trips the extra weight makes the high spring rate even more perfectly matched.

    Others on the other hand might perfer a more supple ride which may result in a little more dulation and body roll, but will be less harsh, especially offroad where it'll soak up the corrugations better.

    Hope that helps answer the question.

    Cheers,

    Matt
    Ironman 4x4

  6. #14
    Expert tikashooter's Avatar
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    Again thank you very much it certainly has helped I like the idea of slightly heavier springs on the rear.
    When the Boss gives me the ok to spend some more coin on the GU I will certainly be coming to you guys first.

    Cheers,
    Tikashooter

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