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Thread: Patrol GQ auto convertor lockup

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    Patrol GQ auto convertor lockup

    hi, I found this link with information about manual torque convertor lockup on a GU Patrol. Is the wiring the same to the GQ patrol TCU? (Same pins/wire colour)
    http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Locku...s%20Switch.htm
    Thanks
    1981 Nissan Patrol MQ SWB, 3.3TD, West Melbourne.

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    Hi Boggy,
    No it's not the same. I think from memory the Y60 used pin number 21 on the TCU for the lockup solenoid. You would need to check it with your manual because some other models were different also. The circuit will work on a Y60, but you can't lock your converter in 1st gear unless you use a GU valve body. In some ways thats better because you don't have to worry about the brake pedal release to unlock it unless you have the HOLD switch on.

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    boggy2006 (4th February 2011)

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    hi, that's great thanks, I'll look into it.

    When you say that it can't be locked up in 1st, does that mean if I try to it will break it, or it just won't lock up even if the lock up solenoid is active?
    1981 Nissan Patrol MQ SWB, 3.3TD, West Melbourne.

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    Hi all
    Does this prevent run away on a steep down hill,
    If so can you do this to a 1999, 4500 auto bow?
    Cheers
    Cadbury

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    Quote Originally Posted by boggy2006 View Post
    hi, that's great thanks, I'll look into it.

    When you say that it can't be locked up in 1st, does that mean if I try to it will break it, or it just won't lock up even if the lock up solenoid is active?
    It just wont lock up in first, it wont damage anything.

    Tony

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cadbury View Post
    Hi all
    Does this prevent run away on a steep down hill,
    If so can you do this to a 1999, 4500 auto bow?
    Cheers
    Cadbury
    Yes it does reduce runaway and yes it can be done on a '99 4.5 auto.

    Tony

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    That's good, thanks. I guess it means it won't stall the engine then when stopping in 1st with it locked up. What happens if you try to drive through the gears normally (with it in D) with it locked up all the time? Would it work? Do I have to try it ;-) ?!!

    ps. according to the workshop manuals on here, it looks like pin 22 for the GQ. Pin 21 is the overun solenoid with only activates in 1st, 2nd, 3rd which I beleive is why the revs drop and it virtually free wheels when you take your foot off the accel in 4th. Might be nice to have that operating in 4th too.

    I'm also wondering if there's anything that can be done with my sloppy 2nd-3rd change. Firstly checking the shift A and shift B solenoid coil resistances and when they operate during the 2nd-3rd shift, if they are PWM'd etc.
    Last edited by boggy2006; 4th February 2011 at 11:49 AM.
    1981 Nissan Patrol MQ SWB, 3.3TD, West Melbourne.

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    Quote Originally Posted by boggy2006 View Post
    That's good, thanks. I guess it means it won't stall the engine then when stopping in 1st with it locked up. What happens if you try to drive through the gears normally (with it in D) with it locked up all the time? Would it work? Do I have to try it ;-) ?!!

    ps. according to the workshop manuals on here, it looks like pin 22 for the GQ. Pin 21 is the overun solenoid with only activates in 1st, 2nd, 3rd which I beleive is why the revs drop and it virtually free wheels when you take your foot off the accel in 4th. Might be nice to have that operating in 4th too.

    I'm also wondering if there's anything that can be done with my sloppy 2nd-3rd change. Firstly checking the shift A and shift B solenoid coil resistances and when they operate during the 2nd-3rd shift, if they are PWM'd etc.
    Hi Cobber,

    I did this mod to mine and subsequently a couple of others and it was one of the best things I did to the old girl.

    To clear up a few things...

    Firstly... the TC will lock in first gear but unlike the GU's that will stall if you come to a complete stop the GQ has a lower pressure valve body and will "buck" a little bit but not stall however still not a recommended practice. Braking to a complete stop with it engaged that is.

    Second... ECU pins. You are correct it is pin 22 for all the GQ's I have done but the wire colour code changes between a few models. See my posts here: patrol4x4.com/forum/nissan-patrol-gq-y60-ford-maverick-11/94-gq-auto-tranny-lock-up-switch-8860

    NOTE: Direct link removed as patrol4x4 are currently experiencing virus / malware issues, view the link at your own risk.....Regards, Forum management

    Third... there are pics floating around that have the Engine and Tranny ECU locations mixed up. The Tranny ECU is behind the passengers kick panel in the LH side of the Pass footwell, well, again at least in all the GQ's I have done. The best spot to put the relay IMHO is above the ECU so do that while you are in there

    Now for the advantages/disadvantages

    Advantages and a couple of them are BIG ones IMHO
    1. Heaps better engine braking in downhill descents off road.
    2. Significantly lowers Gearbox Temps when towing as the TC slippage is one of the main heat sources
    3. It sort of gives you split gears between Drive TC locked and Drive TC unlocked (esp when towing) and same for O'drive so makes the hills easier to negotiate on the open road.
    4. Better fuel economy on-road in daily driving if you do a lot of 70 to 80 KPH stuff.

    Disadvantages only minor IMHO
    DON"T lock up the TC under power IE lift the pedal and lock it or lock it prior to descent.
    When locked you drive it like a manual tranny and again just lift the pedal momentarily as you change gears. There is no need to disengage the TC lockup if you do that, you can just leave it locked and only disengage when stopping.

    ET's thoughts
    I reckon it is a cracking mod and can be done for under $20 depending on how "techo" you make it with brake realys speed sensors etc adding to the cost. It totally changed my truck and I did the best part of 100,000 K's touring, towing the Camper and 'wheeling with no issues whatsoever

    I just had an old floor mounted "dip switch" for the left foot to engage/disengage, a single pole switch on the dash to "arm" the floor switch and a 12 Volt LED under the switch to tell me if it was "locked"

    Finally... Kudo's to Chaz for putting the idea and original circuits up.
    Last edited by NissanGQ4.2; 28th April 2012 at 04:57 PM.
    Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.

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    Thanks for the info. It would be great if it was possible to detect a shift then release lock up for the shift, I wonder if shift solenoid A and B could be monitored and used to detect a shift, if they are responsible for the shifts. Also need vehicle speed below a certain value eg. 15kph, then remove lock and revs above a certain value eg. 1800rpm, to engage lock, how about a paddle shift!! Might as well make another ECU whilst I'm at it LOL!! Could do it as I'm an electronics engineer, but it's just finding the time (screaming wife/kids, full time job, not enough holidays etc etc!!).
    1981 Nissan Patrol MQ SWB, 3.3TD, West Melbourne.

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    Quote Originally Posted by the evil twin View Post
    ET's thoughts
    I did the best part of 100,000 K's touring, towing the Camper and 'wheeling with no issues whatsoever
    Old thread I know, but were you towing the camper in D or 4th?
    Just trying to work out how much weight you can safely tow in OD.
    1989 GQ LWB Wagon, TB42 Petrol/LPG Auto. Bought Dec 2010

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