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23rd February 2014, 11:13 PM
#11
Patrol Freak
seems to me your car has to be wired wrong check the brake connection v the one on your wifes car if same hmm I would run a wire direct from the battery to your brake light wire on the trailer and see whats happening
07 crd,,bridgestone 697lt, 2.75 buedesert ex,
SOLD theres a lot of my blood, sweat and money in that troll.
92 gq ti tb42efi my brothers gq extractors dual batteries brake controller uhf alloy bullbar
SOLD with a heavy heart but gone to a nice young fella
13 y62 the beast that burbles
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23rd February 2014 11:13 PM
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23rd February 2014, 11:14 PM
#12
Expert
Originally Posted by
megatexture
Ye not earth pin if the other lights are ok .
Is the brake pin firm in the female end and ring on the male it could be getting pushed away when you plug it up, just try pushing on them... Its going to be something simple and you will kick yourself lol
Haha I hope it's simple but I'd still like to figure out what it is soon I have so much to do and running out of time. Their both firm and can't be moved.
2010 GU7, ZD30 CRD. ARB: bulbar, scrubbars, rock sliders, roofrack, front and rear air lockers, twin compressor. OME 2" lift, mickey T's ATZ P3 33" tyres x 6, opposite lock rear twin spare rear bar, Wurton 46" light bar roof mounted, draw system, clearview mirrors, redarc gauges: boost, EGt, engine pressure and temp, trans temp, battery. Dual battery system, 12,000lb warn winch, DYI sound/heat proofing.
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23rd February 2014, 11:16 PM
#13
Patrol Freak
seems to me your car has to be wired wrong check the brake connection v the one on your wifes car if same hmm I would run a wire direct from the battery to your brake light wire on the trailer and see whats happening and hopefully that wont work either then you will get an answer
07 crd,,bridgestone 697lt, 2.75 buedesert ex,
SOLD theres a lot of my blood, sweat and money in that troll.
92 gq ti tb42efi my brothers gq extractors dual batteries brake controller uhf alloy bullbar
SOLD with a heavy heart but gone to a nice young fella
13 y62 the beast that burbles
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23rd February 2014, 11:16 PM
#14
Expert
Originally Posted by
gaddy
Has it got those dumb a$$ scotch clips joining the plug to the the harness , they are renowned for failing to make a solid connection
Opps just saw mudnuts post
Nope looks like all connection are soldered. If it was a bad connection would I still get te 13.5v reading?
2010 GU7, ZD30 CRD. ARB: bulbar, scrubbars, rock sliders, roofrack, front and rear air lockers, twin compressor. OME 2" lift, mickey T's ATZ P3 33" tyres x 6, opposite lock rear twin spare rear bar, Wurton 46" light bar roof mounted, draw system, clearview mirrors, redarc gauges: boost, EGt, engine pressure and temp, trans temp, battery. Dual battery system, 12,000lb warn winch, DYI sound/heat proofing.
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23rd February 2014, 11:18 PM
#15
Expert
Originally Posted by
kevin07
seems to me your car has to be wired wrong check the brake connection v the one on your wifes car if same hmm I would run a wire direct from the battery to your brake light wire on the trailer and see whats happening
I've towed with my car before actually only 2 weeks ago and haven't ever had an issue. Checked the wiring already and all good at the plug
2010 GU7, ZD30 CRD. ARB: bulbar, scrubbars, rock sliders, roofrack, front and rear air lockers, twin compressor. OME 2" lift, mickey T's ATZ P3 33" tyres x 6, opposite lock rear twin spare rear bar, Wurton 46" light bar roof mounted, draw system, clearview mirrors, redarc gauges: boost, EGt, engine pressure and temp, trans temp, battery. Dual battery system, 12,000lb warn winch, DYI sound/heat proofing.
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23rd February 2014, 11:18 PM
#16
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As others have said, it is probably a bad connection where it is being tapped off, possibly with scotch lock (worst thing electrical ever invented).
You will probably measure volts fine until there is a load and then it will drop.
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23rd February 2014, 11:19 PM
#17
Patrol God
Are the trailer lights LED or globes. If it is globes, the high wattage brake lights draw way more current than the others. And yes voltage can be present with a high resistance joint, but when current is drawn, most of the voltage is across that joint instead of the lights.
You beat me to the punch, Tony
Last edited by mudnut; 23rd February 2014 at 11:23 PM.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
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23rd February 2014, 11:21 PM
#18
Expert
Originally Posted by
mudnut
Are the trailer lights LED or globes. If it is globes, the high wattage brake lights draw way more current than the others.
The light are LED
2010 GU7, ZD30 CRD. ARB: bulbar, scrubbars, rock sliders, roofrack, front and rear air lockers, twin compressor. OME 2" lift, mickey T's ATZ P3 33" tyres x 6, opposite lock rear twin spare rear bar, Wurton 46" light bar roof mounted, draw system, clearview mirrors, redarc gauges: boost, EGt, engine pressure and temp, trans temp, battery. Dual battery system, 12,000lb warn winch, DYI sound/heat proofing.
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23rd February 2014, 11:29 PM
#19
Patrol God
Yeah, they don't draw a lot of current, but need a good connections to work properly. You might have to measure the resistance between the socket and the brake lights by taking a light assembly off the car.
Last edited by mudnut; 24th February 2014 at 12:04 AM.
My advice is: not to follow my advice.
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23rd February 2014, 11:57 PM
#20
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If you take the cover off the plug and plug it in you can test the voltage while under load.
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mudnut (24th February 2014)