OUR VIDEOS GALLERY MEMBER SPONSORSHIP VENDOR SPONSORSHIP

User Tag List

Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: What to do..

  1. #1
    Patrol God BigRAWesty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Mount Gambier, SA
    Posts
    13,500
    Thanks
    15,769
    Thanked 4,664 Times in 3,125 Posts
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    What to do..

    Well this is eating me inside out..
    I have the turbo.
    I've sold some parts so now will have some cash for the manifold.
    Will do all the piping myself, will still need oil lines.
    Stock exhaust will stay for the moment, but I will remove the muffler to make it straight threw..

    My only draw back, my engines age..
    Half a million on the clock.
    Original clutch is also another draw back.

    Am only looking to do 10-12psi, but I want reliability and I'm unsure how long the motor has got.

    So, I need some direction..
    Help
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

  2. # ADS
    Circuit advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many

     

  3. #2
    Legendary 93patrol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Bunbury
    Posts
    2,983
    Thanks
    3,442
    Thanked 1,326 Times in 805 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    i would do a compression test on your motor and put a new clutch in it any way especially if your still planning on heading off on your trip

    on getting your compression results you can then decide whether to go ahead with the turbo or not.

  4. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to 93patrol For This Useful Post:

    BigRAWesty (16th February 2014), PMC (16th February 2014)

  5. #3
    Patrol God BigRAWesty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Mount Gambier, SA
    Posts
    13,500
    Thanks
    15,769
    Thanked 4,664 Times in 3,125 Posts
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yep, good call.. Should do that..
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

  6. #4
    Legendary 93patrol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Bunbury
    Posts
    2,983
    Thanks
    3,442
    Thanked 1,326 Times in 805 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    i would hate to see you get the turbo on only to blow up the engine and the clutch just after you've left home and then have to turn back because its cost you 15g to get it all fixed.

  7. #5
    Patrol Guru SonOf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Dover, Tasmania
    Posts
    504
    Thanks
    569
    Thanked 294 Times in 153 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Be worth sticking it on a dyno if all pans out, get the pump recallibrated so it doesn't under/overfuel. Adding an EGT would also be benaficial.
    Seemed like a good idea at the time

  8. #6
    Patrol God BigRAWesty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Mount Gambier, SA
    Posts
    13,500
    Thanks
    15,769
    Thanked 4,664 Times in 3,125 Posts
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yea have egt gauge and needle setup already. Would need boost gauge.
    Tune would be done if I turbo it.
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

  9. #7
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ballarat, Vic
    Posts
    6,749
    Thanks
    2,135
    Thanked 7,424 Times in 3,003 Posts
    Mentioned
    174 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I am no mechanical guru, most here probably know more than me.
    I may get howled down for this....... but feel I gotta say what I think.
    Even though I don’t know your car, there is no way known I would be throwing the sort of money you plan to ‘invest’ in your car, particularly as you hope to drag a van around the country with it. I reckon fitting a turbo to a motor which is by no means a spring chicken is just a false economy, likely to end up costing you a lot more when it ‘lets go’. I recognise that you know your own car better than most & that it is yours (& your wife’s?) decision which way to go with this.......... all I’m saying, having experienced the need to get a replacement motor in a remote area, that the experience is stressful & sure ain’t a lot of fun, & VERY expensive once freight & remote area hourly rates are taken into account.
    If I were in your shoes I would be looking at either making the car as unstressed & reliable as possible without spending any more than I had to with a view to leaving it & getting a bus home if it let me down in a big way somewhere, OR saving for something younger & with a lot less kms for the trip, postponing the trip until in a position to achieve this.

    Not telling you what to do, just sharing how I look at it.

    Cuppa

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

  10. #8
    Patrol God BigRAWesty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Mount Gambier, SA
    Posts
    13,500
    Thanks
    15,769
    Thanked 4,664 Times in 3,125 Posts
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    I am no mechanical guru, most here probably know more than me.
    I may get howled down for this....... but feel I gotta say what I think.
    Even though I don’t know your car, there is no way known I would be throwing the sort of money you plan to ‘invest’ in your car, particularly as you hope to drag a van around the country with it. I reckon fitting a turbo to a motor which is by no means a spring chicken is just a false economy, likely to end up costing you a lot more when it ‘lets go’. I recognise that you know your own car better than most & that it is yours (& your wife’s?) decision which way to go with this.......... all I’m saying, having experienced the need to get a replacement motor in a remote area, that the experience is stressful & sure ain’t a lot of fun, & VERY expensive once freight & remote area hourly rates are taken into account.
    If I were in your shoes I would be looking at either making the car as unstressed & reliable as possible without spending any more than I had to with a view to leaving it & getting a bus home if it let me down in a big way somewhere, OR saving for something younger & with a lot less kms for the trip, postponing the trip until in a position to achieve this.

    Not telling you what to do, just sharing how I look at it.

    Cuppa
    Yes, and exactly what's holding me back cuppa..
    The car will pull a van, just not at 110.. Which doesn't bother us..
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

  11. #9
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ballarat, Vic
    Posts
    6,749
    Thanks
    2,135
    Thanked 7,424 Times in 3,003 Posts
    Mentioned
    174 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    When you’re ‘on the road’ with no schedule to keep, speed becomes irrelevant. Cruising speed in our bus is around 80 -90kph on a good day, can get a lot slower if going up hills..... but it still gets there. Only time it feels slow is in heavy traffic but most of Oz doesn’t have heavy traffic & easy enough to avoid the bits that does.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
    A Nomadic Life (Blog)

  12. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Cuppa For This Useful Post:

    BigRAWesty (16th February 2014), Maxhead (16th February 2014)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •