dawes and needle valve for common rail?

[patrolman123]

I think crd does need a small hole because they do have an extra sensor in the egr. It has to sense some sort of flow of air

[apalsson]

While I appreciate that people have had issues with high EGT in the past, especially in the early versions of the ZD30, I admit I'd be seriously reluctant to apply heavy handed fixes that we all agree are illegal too.
Are there any statistics available that show the percentage of these engines (year by year if possible) that actually have failed because of excessive EGT?
Even better, with the cars that blew engines, what was the configuration? (did they have bullbars without adequate openings at the front, high mount winches or other mods that might have contributed to overheating)

I guess being an engineer, I have limited imagination but like to go on numbers (facts and figures)

A blown engine is no joking matter but neither is voided warranty on a new engine or a defect notice from the boys in blue

[the evil twin]

While I appreciate that people have had issues with high EGT in the past, especially in the early versions of the ZD30, I admit I'd be seriously reluctant to apply heavy handed fixes that we all agree are illegal too.
Are there any statistics available that show the percentage of these engines (year by year if possible) that actually have failed because of excessive EGT?
Even better, with the cars that blew engines, what was the configuration? (did they have bullbars without adequate openings at the front, high mount winches or other mods that might have contributed to overheating)

I guess being an engineer, I have limited imagination but like to go on numbers (facts and figures)

A blown engine is no joking matter but neither is voided warranty on a new engine or a defect notice from the boys in blue

Also being an engineer...

Reliable figures? ... Hell no
Configuration? ... again Hell no

It is almost impossible to even find reliable sales figures of how many Patrols of a particular series have been sold.

Forums are probably one of the least reliable sources of information as regards statistics (I stress statistics) as well because they do not attract an untainted sample statistically speaking. Most people "find" a forum because of a personal interest over and above Joe Public or they have had failures... the old "search for shit and you will find it" syndrome

The vast majority of nomads, soccer mums etc tooling around in their Patrols wouldn't have a clue about blown engines, cleaning MAF's or whatever because while it keeps going they don't care.

The other BIG issue with forums is that a single post that is absolutely 100% wrong can get a cult following and become absolute concrete fact that an exponential number of people will swear is kosher purely because others have done so and it becomes almost impossible to contradict or correct.

I've seen it on other Forums and also here and I rarely even bother trying to correct it these days as you either get flamed, argued with or ignored

[patrolman123]

Agreed ^^^^^

[apalsson]

Also being an engineer...

Reliable figures? ... Hell no
Configuration? ... again Hell no

Excellent post! Must be because an engineer wrote it

Seriously, I have been trying hard to get some reliable data on this but it has been all but impossible. I have a good relationship with a Nissan Dealer Service Manager and discussed this with him. He obviously kept the Nissan hat on tight but told me in his time, he had seen two blown ZD30 engines, both from cars with modded fronts (as he put it). H was adamant that the ratio was low.
I suggested to him the NADS mods and he agreed with the gauges and a catch can but was mo ambivalent on the Daws/Needle Valve setup. He still agreed that und certain circumstances it wasn't a bad idea. Block EGR? His words were: "Why deliberately void your engine warranty and get the Cops on you?"

A local Diesel Service guy took a similar line but also suggested a fine extra fuel filter if you spend a lot of time Outback. H offered me a Provent and said he thought that was a good idea. He was also all in favour of the gauges.

It seems that for every two people you ask, you get three different opinions!

My old Patrol was a 2001 and was driven hard and used hard. I was diligent with the services and the car never let me down.
Because my current one is out of warranty, I don't have the same reservations against modding but as I said earli in this thread, everything in me wants data, figures and facts to go on.

I hope my rumblings make sense

[the evil twin]

What I have found is this (and my vehicles have been/are fairly heavily instrumented) but I stress it is just me and my opinions others are free to agree/disagree/plait their poo...

EGR blocking - illegal due to anti-pollution regs and has warranty implications
Gives great results in removing soot and particulates from induction and heaps less oil contamination.
On CRD's it WILL affect the spool up and you MUST adjust the VNT actuator.
If you do that adjustment you don't need a Dawes and Needle BUT you can fit them if you want some extra piece of mind and stuff to fiddle with

Bottom line - great for the engine, crap for the environment, escape clause for Nissan

Fine fuel filters -
I'm a fence sitter on this one, mainly because the CRD has no lift pump and is gobsmackingly tempermental about fuel but I reckon good idea as long as you keep a close eye on them and change regularly

Bottom Line - If they save some shit trashing the Pump, rail or Injectors which will cost you at least $5,000 then they are worth it

How many blow up?
Series 5 and up I reckon bugger all when compared to like vehicles.
My 'stock' work Ranger atomised itself at 101,500, my heavily modd'd Patrol WITHOUT NADS (just an EGR block) has nearly 160,000.
When the Ranger was in getting engine work etc there were two others the same but none of the above really proves anything.

Chips -
Mine has a DP and goes ganbusters on 7. It also has a big exhaust

Warranty,
Mine is just out now but Nissan never blinked at anything including new intercooler etc. even with the Chip etc and yes they knew about the EGR block. We just chose not to ever speak of it. Other Dealerships may not be so uuuummmm accomodating

[teach]

I know this thread is a little old but I am in similar boat with my 2010 GU8 CRD. Just recently had intercooler replaced under extended warranty by Nissan (it was leaking after 4.5 years) so I am looking at the NADS etc and trying to put together in my mind a plan of attack. Here is my thinking thus far.

1. Install catch can. I have purchased Provent 200 already (still yet to install). Thought this will help engine etc run cleaner and less blockage.

2. Install boost and EGT gauges.

3. Install exhaust. Reduce EGT and some minor performance increase. Install Dawes valve (and needle valve??) as exhaust will change boost in engine.

4. Block EGR (in 18 months time when warranty over). Get ScanGauge to clear fault codes.

Now likely to do steps 1-3 at same time as I don't feel I am mechanically mined enough (used to work on my 186 motor in my Torana in younger days but CRD much different kettle of fish), don't have all the tools to do myself (esp. welding bungs in dump pipes etc), and the obvious time factor to do it myself, hence pay diesel mechanic to do it. Plus saves paying exhaust shop $120 to fit bung in the stock exhaust dump pipe to fit EGT probe if gauges fitted same time as exhaust.

So my questions I can think of are:
* Is this the way to attack the issue? Have I missed something?
* Who would be a suitable diesel mechanic (Brisbane Southside - I live at Morningside) to approach to install these bits and pieces
* Is Dawes and needle valve required for CRD? I know Dawes limits boost and needle works on spool up of turbo, but does CRD manage this much better than Di and makes them not required.

Thanks in advance for any useful advice I receive.

[mudski]

I know this thread is a little old but I am in similar boat with my 2010 GU8 CRD. Just recently had intercooler replaced under extended warranty by Nissan (it was leaking after 4.5 years) so I am looking at the NADS etc and trying to put together in my mind a plan of attack. Here is my thinking thus far.

1. Install catch can. I have purchased Provent 200 already (still yet to install). Thought this will help engine etc run cleaner and less blockage.

2. Install boost and EGT gauges.

3. Install exhaust. Reduce EGT and some minor performance increase. Install Dawes valve (and needle valve??) as exhaust will change boost in engine.

4. Block EGR (in 18 months time when warranty over). Get ScanGauge to clear fault codes.

Now likely to do steps 1-3 at same time as I don't feel I am mechanically mined enough (used to work on my 186 motor in my Torana in younger days but CRD much different kettle of fish), don't have all the tools to do myself (esp. welding bungs in dump pipes etc), and the obvious time factor to do it myself, hence pay diesel mechanic to do it. Plus saves paying exhaust shop $120 to fit bung in the stock exhaust dump pipe to fit EGT probe if gauges fitted same time as exhaust.

So my questions I can think of are:
* Is this the way to attack the issue? Have I missed something?
* Who would be a suitable diesel mechanic (Brisbane Southside - I live at Morningside) to approach to install these bits and pieces
* Is Dawes and needle valve required for CRD? I know Dawes limits boost and needle works on spool up of turbo, but does CRD manage this much better than Di and makes them not required.

Thanks in advance for any useful advice I receive.

To your questions.
*1 Your pretty much on the money....
*2 Can't help you there. I'm a Mexican.
*3 The dawes and needle isn't required for the CRD's or the Di's.
*3 pt.2 The CRD's does manage this better than the DI's but if you see a before and after shot of a dyno run. You will definitely put the two valves in. Just because the ECU in the CRD's handles things better than the Di's. Still doesn't mean its doing its job right. I'm not saying it isn't mind you. But every driver is different, every driver wants their car to perform to the way they like it. Running the two valves gives you the driver the opportunity to adjust things and make the car drive the way you like it. You want more boost? Sure! You want a quicker spool up rate? No worries!
Some people just don't care and like how the car drives out of the crate. Thats fine too. Its their car.
But in all honesty, there is no point in just doing the Dawes valve and NOT the needle valve. Thats like taking a dump and holding your pee back. Doing half a job. Its a hole half an hour longer to fit up the needle valve and really enjoy what you have just done and really benefit from it. Your are bypassing one part of the boost control solenoid with the Dawes. Why not by pass the whole thing? I have fitted countless valves to these donks, Di and CRD, and have seen in person the difference it makes.

Thats my 2c. Some will agree some will not. The beauty of the internet forum...

Cheers.

[teach]

Many thanks for the advice. It is greatly appreciated. Looks like it would best to fit catch can, gauges and exhaust. Drive the car for awhile and learn how it's performing with changes. Then fit Dawes and needle valve to suit.

[PerthGuy]

hi there, Im New to Patrols (searching for my first actually) looking for late model CRD.

My question (newbie) is what is the difference between installing an EGR block and a catch can? maybe im missing the purpose of the catch can, if you have the EGR block in place? Sorry if this is a newbie question