Sheared off all 6 Wheel Studs Last Night…not happy

[nissannewby]

While we are talking studs'n' nuts, What brand of replacements would you trust, Matt?

I haven't really used many but genuine items seem to hold their integrity better than the aftermarket items (studs). As for nuts the enclosed (acorn style I think) are good as the keep most of the crap out. Also the tapers in some wheels can be different and I believe this is why allied supply new nuts with their wheels apart from looks.

[PMC]

I just bought a full set to replace the LHS but will pull them tomorrow.

Couple of pics of the studs a bit closer up.





I tend to think they were over-tightened, and if that is the case, it is entirely my fault. I tightened the nuts by hand with a normal wheel brace. This morning, I checked the nuts on the rest of the vehicle and they were all fine. Not hard to get off, but not loose either. Nice and firm

G'day Ben,

Chev power was to blame mate. lol

The only other thing i can see is the thickness of the steel rim V your alloy rims, ie, the overall length of thread. The extra thickness of the alloy rims would only allow so much thread into the nut, over tightening the nut would cause extra stain on the thread, heat,friction and a bump in the road would then cause the appropriate catastrophic failure of the thread. that is only my opinion!

PS, as what nissannewby and other have suggested check all the other wheels.

Regards,

RLI

[happygu]

While we are talking studs'n' nuts, What brand of replacements would you trust, Matt?

Mudnut,

I went through this very same dilemma when I purchased some spare studs for our Simpson Desert trip....

Patrolapart had genuine and non-genuine wheel studs, and I asked for their advice on which ones to carry, and despite the OEM ones breaking, thus causing us to carry spare studs and nuts, they recommended the genuine articles as they perform better in the long run.

You can carry a single rear wheel spare set, and use these for fronts and rears, even though the studs are too long for the front wheels and need to break through the end of the nut itself, so that the stud sticks through the end of the original captive nut....and actually tightens up against the rim.

Mic

[BigRAWesty]

Gotcha! Might replace studs all around then. Got to have confidence in the vehicle when away from the bitumen for good periods of time.

Yes I think if you have only used a brace I'd be changing em all..
Does look like a stretch snap not a sheer..

Not overly expensive hay.. At half a million k's I might do mine to..

[FNQGU]

Do you use the same nuts for the 2 sets of wheels? I know the allied nuts that are supplied with their wheels have quite a deep taper.

Yes, same set of wheel nuts. Should I be getting a second set for the steel ROH rims? Do different rims have different tapers?

[FNQGU]

Yes I think if you have only used a brace I'd be changing em all..
Does look like a stretch snap not a sheer..

Not overly expensive hay.. At half a million k's I might do mine to..

I think your right mate. Time to change them all out. Just for peace of mind if nothing else, and it aint a hard job, or overly expensive, so I have no excuses.

[nissannewby]

Yes, same set of wheel nuts. Should I be getting a second set for the steel ROH rims? Do different rims have different tapers?

Mate I am not 100% sure but it would be something I would look into. I know myself that the nuts on my old genuine alloys didn't quite sit right on steel wheels. I now have a full set of allied with there supplied nuts. The tapers might not be different but if they are (depth angle etc) they could put added strain on your wheels, nuts and studs.

[nissannewby]

I think your right mate. Time to change them all out. Just for peace of mind if nothing else, and it aint a hard job, or overly expensive, so I have no excuses.

Yeah even the fronts on the gu are a little easier as they have cutouts in the rotors for the studs. GQ you have to remove the rotor from the hub

[Cuppa]

I believe that the nuts for alloys DO have a different taper than those for steels.

Is there any elongation of the holes in your alloys. (Maybe put up a pic?).
I’m wondering if the nuts loosened off a bit allowing the wheel to move on the studs resulting in them shearing. I have heard of this occuring on caravans.

After you have replaced all studs (If it were mine I’d do all 4 wheels) I’d suggest different nuts for alloy & steel.

[BigRAWesty]

I believe that the nuts for alloys DO have a different taper than those for steels.

Is there any elongation of the holes in your alloys. (Maybe put up a pic?).
I’m wondering if the nuts loosened off a bit allowing the wheel to move on the studs resulting in them shearing. I have heard of this occuring on caravans.

After you have replaced all studs (If it were mine I’d do all 4 wheels) I’d suggest different nuts for alloy & steel.

It's the company who change tapers, not so much just steel to alloy. So yes is you run multiple sets of rims ensure you have the correct nut to suit..