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Thread: Injector issue, maybe, I think.

  1. #11
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    Cheers guys. We have swapped injectors around and it hasn't followed the injector. We have done a leak down test which is suppose to be more accurate than a compression test. The 4th cylinder has tested to be better than some other cylinders..

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  3. #12
    Expert Shaunous's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ned Fisch View Post
    Cheers guys. We have swapped injectors around and it hasn't followed the injector. We have done a leak down test which is suppose to be more accurate than a compression test. The 4th cylinder has tested to be better than some other cylinders..
    Yeh, normally you do a standard compression test dry, then a wet one (adding a small amount of oil to seal the ring gaps, but that'll only tell you is you have ring or bore wear), but yeh what you have done is basically the same thing if you got the gear.

    If you crack the injector line up at the injector with the engine running, like you were bleeding the system, does the 4th Cyl line seem to spray the same amount of diesel if you were the crack any other cylinder?
    How hard is it to remove the line and blow compressed air through it to make sure its 100% cleared, diesel pressure from the pump should clear it, but not if its running/blocked by the top of the injector.

    Basically make sure the fuel line to the 4th cylinder isnt blocked or damaged

    If the line is OK, your looking at a pump problem.
    1998 GU - RD28t > TJM Bull Bar > Dual Batteries > Boost & EGT Gauges > Turbo Timer > Minor Engine Mod's.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaunous View Post
    Yeh, normally you do a standard compression test dry, then a wet one (adding a small amount of oil to seal the ring gaps, but that'll only tell you is you have ring or bore wear), but yeh what you have done is basically the same thing if you got the gear.

    If you crack the injector line up at the injector with the engine running, like you were bleeding the system, does the 4th Cyl line seem to spray the same amount of diesel if you were the crack any other cylinder?
    How hard is it to remove the line and blow compressed air through it to make sure its 100% cleared, diesel pressure from the pump should clear it, but not if its running/blocked by the top of the injector.

    Basically make sure the fuel line to the 4th cylinder isnt blocked or damaged

    If the line is OK, your looking at a pump problem.
    Thanks mate, dad has actually done that, didn't realise that and the lines are all clear and are not damaged. It does seem to spray a little less fuel than others it seems..

    We have a normal/glow plug compression tester which we will use tonight. Gotta stay hopeful now.

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    Expert Shaunous's Avatar
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    You know how to do a correct compression test Yeh?

    Wind it over say 3 revolutions, and do that exactly the same for all cylinders, consistency is what your looking for. Don't keep winding until it finally gets up and up in pressure, if it's down compared to the rest, add a few mls of oil and see if the pressure comes up to spec or not. Write everything down everytime u do it, and let us know how u go. U can keep winding and winding the engine over until it, if at all comes up to spec, but it's good to try both short wind and long wind if your not getting a clear result.

    I didn't read your original post properly, are u positive the smoke is white/grey? Is there any tinge of blue in there?
    1998 GU - RD28t > TJM Bull Bar > Dual Batteries > Boost & EGT Gauges > Turbo Timer > Minor Engine Mod's.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shaunous View Post
    You know how to do a correct compression test Yeh?

    Wind it over say 3 revolutions, and do that exactly the same for all cylinders, consistency is what your looking for. Don't keep winding until it finally gets up and up in pressure, if it's down compared to the rest, add a few mls of oil and see if the pressure comes up to spec or not. Write everything down everytime u do it, and let us know how u go. U can keep winding and winding the engine over until it, if at all comes up to spec, but it's good to try both short wind and long wind if your not getting a clear result.

    I didn't read your original post properly, are u positive the smoke is white/grey? Is there any tinge of blue in there?
    Thanks very much Shaun.
    We just completed the test. Cylinders 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 tested from 420-470. Cylinder 4 tested at 210 dry. We tested the 4th a few times wet, starting with a thin oil, than a thicker oil, and the highest it went was 230. We wound it over 3 revolutions for each one.
    No mate, it doesn't seem to have any blue tinge to it at all.

    Now with that test done, a top end rebuild is in order. Is it possible to buy just a top end rebuild kit?

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    Expert Shaunous's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ned Fisch View Post
    Thanks very much Shaun.
    We just completed the test. Cylinders 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 tested from 420-470. Cylinder 4 tested at 210 dry. We tested the 4th a few times wet, starting with a thin oil, than a thicker oil, and the highest it went was 230. We wound it over 3 revolutions for each one.
    No mate, it doesn't seem to have any blue tinge to it at all.

    Now with that test done, a top end rebuild is in order. Is it possible to buy just a top end rebuild kit?
    Glad you have now found a result mate, might not be a good one, but at least you have narrowed it down to something.

    Remove the head and inspect first before u go buying anything, may get away with a new valve and grind, or the head or piston may be buggered all together. You Won't know until you remove the head and inspect. Remember don't clean anything when u remove it either, if you yourself is removing it that is. As the engine shop will use stains and markings to determine the problem, if you clean these off it could be impossible to diagnose.
    1998 GU - RD28t > TJM Bull Bar > Dual Batteries > Boost & EGT Gauges > Turbo Timer > Minor Engine Mod's.

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    That isn't great news Ned, but as Shaun says, at least you now have a reason.

    Definitely pull it apart first before getting any bits - you can organize stuff so you know where you would source the bits, but it could be in the bottom end ( even though they are usually pretty tough, but you may have had a dribbling injector that has hot spotted a piston so it is best to check )

    Mic
    GU PATROL 2011 Ti, with goodies...

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    Thanks very much guys.
    Found that the problem is that a conrod is shorter for some reason, haha.
    Rebuild on the way I think.

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    Hey mate. Didnt realise it was the same person as facebook. I have those rods if your interested.

  11. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dales300exc View Post
    Hey mate. Didnt realise it was the same person as facebook. I have those rods if your interested.
    Hey mate, cheers for that. You're located in Victoria correct?

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