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25th January 2014, 11:19 AM
#11
The idea is to control the length of time the glow plug stays on after starting the engine. With the Di engine it is a bout 5 minutes. The aim of using the timer is to reduce this. Some people reduce it to about 30 sec after startup.
The best references to this are here:
Glow plugs - why the missing tips ?????
and
Need Help Fitting Glow Plug Timer Please
Also
Need Help Fitting Glow Plug Timer Please
The first link has a lot of detail as well as the usual added trivia.
My suspicion is that the glow plug issue with the Di engine is part of the grenade issue. Nissan seem to have reduced the after start timing of the plugs with the CRD engine.
Also with any of the glow plugs the indications being they need to be physically checked about 80,000 Km after installing.
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Paule (25th January 2014)
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25th January 2014 11:19 AM
# ADS
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25th January 2014, 10:13 PM
#12
Expert
Thanks for that outback, I'll put it on the to do list, thanks 3 dogs for the pm. Ok so I've got my gauge kit and am keen to put it in. So I have question, to get the dump pipe out do I need to undo it where it joins onto the turbo, bellow the heat shield? because I can't get that heat shield out no matter what I try.
03 ST-L auto, Dawes and needle valve, provent catch can, 3' exhaust. I want more than I got
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outback (27th January 2014), threedogs (26th January 2014)
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26th January 2014, 07:45 AM
#13
Lol. You just gotta hold your tounge the right way bud. It will come out. This needs to be removed before you remove the dump pipe too.
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Paule (26th January 2014)
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26th January 2014, 09:04 AM
#14
Expert
What else has to be removed, I have got rubber heater hoses on the motor side off, the bracket holding the solid ones. The solenoid bracket above the turbo. I got it close once but the aircon pipes were gunna get chopped. So I slide back to where it started. Thanks for your help mudski
03 ST-L auto, Dawes and needle valve, provent catch can, 3' exhaust. I want more than I got
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26th January 2014, 10:27 AM
#15
Advanced
You shouldn't have to force it out, like mudski said just gotta get your tongue at the right angle . When you get it out, chop the corners down with a grinder to give yourself a bit more room.
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Paule (26th January 2014)
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26th January 2014, 10:33 AM
#16
Expert
I also struggled for hours, I then went inside for a coffee break and to read up more on how it comes, went out for another go and presto it came out in with no trouble at all. You just have to jiggle it in the right way.
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Paule (26th January 2014)
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26th January 2014, 12:21 PM
#17
Expert
Ok so Ive been tring for hours yesterday and all morning today, my patience is done, after searching the forum some more I can tell I'm having the drama is because it's a ST-L with rear aircon. Which is why I can get it so close but the rear aircon pipes get in the way. I'm gunna get the clamp set up for the egt which I reckon I'll be able to fit on without completely removing the shield. Efin thing, and sorry if I insulted any of my Japanese neighbors.
03 ST-L auto, Dawes and needle valve, provent catch can, 3' exhaust. I want more than I got
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26th January 2014, 11:52 PM
#18
Ahh rear air con too. Of course. I did read somewhere a guy attacked his with a dremel so it was easier to move around those pipes.
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28th January 2014, 05:23 PM
#19
Expert
Yeah the bloody rear aircon.lol I wish I had a dremal, I thought about pulling out the 6" grinder but was running out of time. I'll put it down to a practice run. Lol. Think I'll do the boost gauge first
03 ST-L auto, Dawes and needle valve, provent catch can, 3' exhaust. I want more than I got
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28th January 2014, 05:29 PM
#20
A Dremel is a must in my opinion. Not expensive and such a handy tool to have.
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