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Thread: GU Door Trim Removal (how to guide)

  1. #1
    Hardcore 04OFF's Avatar
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    Post GU Door Trim Removal (how to guide)

    Due to a few people asking about removing door trims in the past, I decided the next time I remove "my" door trim, id get some pics up with instructions.

    My GU (and so this guide) is a series 1 GU Wagon (1999) but this info may help others with later models as where to look/pull, but no guarantee as to what is the same tho.





    Ive started the instructions in a certain order, so the first few steps can be followed, even if you ONLY wish to remove the power window switch cluster, if you use a screwdriver or other metal tool to pry/lever (butter knife, scraper etc) , use a rag or wrap the screwdriver/tool in tape so you reduce damage to the plastic trim/s.




    What my door trim looks like......







    First step, pull up at the rear section of the elbow rest pad, this normally can be done by hand, if its very tight, you may need a paint scraper covered with a rag, or suitable tool that wont scratch into the plastic.








    As in the pic below, you can see underneath how the elbow rest pad has a tongue and groove at the front (red circle), as you lift the back end up, the front can now be withdrawn clear.








    Next remove the Philips head screw in the door handle cavity (blue arrow)







    Now removal of the window switch cluster panel, is the same as the elbow rest pad, lift up at the rear, tongue and groove at the front.








    The red circle below shows the tongue at the front of the window switch panel.

    Once you have exposed the window switch wires, you need to unplug the wiring loom from the window switch, you need to first push the locking tab with a screwdriver (red arrow), then withdraw the plug and wires in the direction of the blue arrows.




    The plug may be a little stiff, you can jiggle the plug a little, but don't use excessive force as you may damage the switch, and try not to pull using the wires themselves, get a friend to help hold it all if you find are struggling.



    Now remove the three large Phillips head screws you have now exposed, the pic below shows red crosses where the screws are located (screws not shown)






    Next you can remove the surround for the internal door release, it will unclip first from the rear, move you fingers/tool around underneath as you go and work it off, DON"T force it in one pull, as you may break the plastic.





    This pic shows how its clipped on








    Next remove the triangle shape door mirror bolt cover, it pretty much just pulls off, you may have a trim clip with a "push centre" to release, it will be visible in the lower left corner (mine is a push in xmas tree clip), remove this clip first before pulling the trim.




    Try to pull the trim off without twisting it, if you twist it the plastic tabs on the rear can snap off, this is the rear view, red circles showing plastic tabs..







    Now grab under the lip of the lower rear section of the trim, pull the trim toward you, (you may need someone to hold the door as you pull) you will feel/hear the trim clips move, once one is popped, work you way along the bottom of the door trim until the lower trim is free.

    Then do the same working up popping the clips that run vertical on each side (DO NOT pull the very top of the door trim where it meets the window)





    Once the clips are removed, the door trim should now be just hanging from the top, it is hooked over at the top of the door, and so needs to be LIFTED UP, hold the bottom of the door trim out a little so it can move freely, start lifting at the rear as shown below.





    This pic shows the behind the top of the door trim, and the hook shape at the top of the trim, it runs the full length of the trim



    If you struggle to get the trim unhooked at the top, It can often be easier to remove and refit the hook part, with the window glass in the fully DOWN position, (of course then you have to plug the window switch in again to move the glass up to get into the door cavity)


    If you are working outside (as I do) have a blanket/towel to put the trim on flat, if you stand them up against a wall/the car, they get blown over easy by wind, and are very easy to damage/scratch.








    Fitting is just the reverse, take note if any clips pulled off the trim and remained on the door itself, these will need to be refitted to the trim before installation of the trim.

    I find cheap crimp terminal pliers are great for removing clips left on the door, but long nose pliers can also work.

    To insert a clip back into the door trim, (look at the other clips for guidance), you insert clip into the big hole, and slide it over into the small hole side, thus trapping the head of the clip in place.




    Another thing to remember, is to poke the power window switch wires up through the door trim "before" you push all the door trim clips home.


    Hope this helps someone, BTW, the rear doors are almost identical in the way they are put together.


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  2. The Following 17 Users Say Thank You to 04OFF For This Useful Post:

    AB (14th January 2014), Bazhemps (17th January 2014), Bob (17th January 2014), Clunk (14th January 2014), FNQGU (15th January 2014), growler2058 (3rd March 2016), GUtsy ute (17th January 2014), Hodge (16th January 2014), jack (15th January 2014), janderson (16th January 2014), maasa2002 (4th October 2015), MudRunnerTD (15th January 2014), my third 256 (17th January 2014), Nick-o-larse (7th May 2018), NissanGQ4.2 (14th January 2014), the evil twin (14th January 2014), wolften (17th January 2014)

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  4. #2
    Administrator AB's Avatar
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    Great effort on the detailed DIY mate. I'm sure it will help hundreds in the future who don't reply to the thread either!

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    Dribble Master Clunk's Avatar
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    Jeez you've got hairy arms mate!!!!!!!!


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    Great, thanks for the tips. Just what I needed.

    I don't suppose you happen to be pulling off the inside panels in your cargo area and rear doors next by any chance….
    Between Patrols ATM. Had a beaut GU with 6.5 Chev TD. Next is a GU ute with a 4.5 litre Cummins conversion and a camper on the back.

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    Hardcore jack's Avatar
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    Great post, now I hope I can find it when I need to remove a door trim.
    Cheers
    Jack

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    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    Great write up 4OFF, I can highly recommend everyone buys a Trim Removal Kit like THIS for a couple of dollars on ebay of under $20 at Supercheap. I even got a set at Bunnings for a couple of dollars. Soooooo Handy
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  10. #7
    us poms are crap at cricket fracster's Avatar
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    Good write up and pics mate, thanks.
    It is now official, we are not quite so sh@t at cricket as we were! Rugby Union is a different matter.

  11. #8
    Patrol God
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    Thanks for writing this up mate! I have a minor grinding noise when window goes up and the glass it's self seems a bit loose, so this will come in very handy once I rip the door apart.
    2005 TD42TI

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    us poms are crap at cricket fracster's Avatar
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    Andy, would there be any mileage in putting threads like this in a dedicated section where they are easier t find. There are loads of great,helpful, threads like this on this forum. Perhaps create a section and sticky them all so they are easy to find.

    If not, then i`ll shut up and mind my own business..................
    It is now official, we are not quite so sh@t at cricket as we were! Rugby Union is a different matter.

  13. #10
    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Good timing. I’ll need to remove both my door trims in the near future to fit the new speakers which Mr eBay is sending me.

    Being a Dx it doesn’t have electric windows, just the old fashioned manual winder. Can anyone add to this thread with advice on how the manual winder is removed?

    Just bought one of the trim removal kits MR linked to. Might help me not to bust the clips like on previous occasions when removing door trims

    Thanks 04OFF & MR
    Last edited by Cuppa; 16th January 2014 at 11:29 PM.

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