CRD overfuelling ?

[the evil twin]

Be a tad wary when trying to compare EGT's with other vehicles.
There are HEAPS of variables that will give different readings for different vehicles.
Someone else may simply have their EGT probe an inch or two further away from the turbo for example.

Your temps don't sound all that far off the mark really... what is your fuel consumption like?

Oh and of the 3 "rattly" Cats I've seen it has been the heat shield. Try temporarily jamming something between the Cat and Shield and see if that fixes it... if so then you can sort out a permanent fix, if not then continue to look at other issues

[threedogs]

As per your headline you say over fueling this to me would suggest belching black smoke.
The CRD can handle much higher temps than the DiD , and as ET suggests never compare two
Patrols as there are so many things that could be different. 650 degrees is not out of the question,

[Hodge]

G'day Jamie.
As others have suggested these temps aren't that drastic. I too have pondered the same mate. I have very similar results to you. But I have a 2 & 3/4 Beaudesert fitted and like you NO nads or EGR block yet.
I had a rattle which turned out to be the turbo heat shield slightly resting on something even though it was tight. I got the grinder out and cut like 5mm off the culprit side and now all is well.
I haven't taken a closer look at my exhaust around the cat area, but i there a heat shield above it ???? Maybe check that.

If the car temperatures behave that way on normal driving. I'm wondering what it'll like when towing and/or going up a hill ? I'd love to see it gunned up some tracks up the high country and watch the EGT go off the charts.

[Rumcajs]

High EGTs means there is more fuel going in or less air getting in. While everyone is saying sitting on 400°C at 100k/h cruising on flat road is normal that doesn't mean its OK. It isn't not on the flat road cruise, maybe climbing a moderate hill perhaps. Goal is to keep them (temps) down not hoping that engine was designed to cope with those. The hotter it gets the quicker it wears out.

This is good reading --> Why EGT is important

I also know I'd not trust Nissan with anything after the ZD30 debacle.
So if you have higher fuel consumption as well (averaging over 14 L per 100) than either the fuel system or induction system has an issue.

If the "cat" is rattling that means it is possibly causing restriction in the exhaust which will increase load on the engine and higher EGTs.

Alternative ways to keep EGTs down are not cheap but bigger/more efficient intercoolers (Nissan unit is a joke, a cheap mass produced barely sufficient minimum) better free flowing less restricting induction system will improve/lower EGTs.

Cheers

[Jamiepatrol]

Thanks again for replies. So if it is over fueling, and if boost is fine how can this be managed if at all ? Only way to intercept messages to injectors is a chip right ?

[NewDan]

Hey Jamie, those are the sort of temps I'm getting, and I've got a bigger intercooler and 3" exhaust (but no egr block) and at present running on 31s
Dan

[the evil twin]

Thanks again for replies. So if it is over fueling, and if boost is fine how can this be managed if at all ? Only way to intercept messages to injectors is a chip right ?

The Chips that I am familiar with will only add fuel not reduce it by either or increasing pressure or injector opening time... but there could be some that will allow you to take fuel away.

Having said that... I would still confirm that it is indeed over fueling and find out why. There is something wrong if it is and you need to find out what.

[Hodge]

Thanks again for replies. So if it is over fueling, and if boost is fine how can this be managed if at all ? Only way to intercept messages to injectors is a chip right ?

I've been wondering this my self. I often see people mention the DI's and CRD's getting dyno tuned. I mean, what the hell can you tune / adjust on these things, other than adding a chip?

Besides that Jamie I wouldn't worry about it too much. Just drive the bloody thing. I've got similar itches on my patrol, but I'm over it. I'm just gonna add the NADS, EGR block, and just drive it, because I bought the patrol, the patrol didn't buy me. If it blows up, it blows up.

[the evil twin]

I've been wondering this my self. I often see people mention the DI's and CRD's getting dyno tuned. I mean, what the hell can you tune / adjust on these things, other than adding a chip?

Besides that Jamie I wouldn't worry about it too much. Just drive the bloody thing. I've got similar itches on my patrol, but I'm over it. I'm just gonna add the NADS, EGR block, and just drive it, because I bought the patrol, the patrol didn't buy me. If it blows up, it blows up.

A Dyno is a tuning tool not a definitive yardstick in most cases (at least not without a whole heap of extra work to ensure repeatability).
Essentially it gives you a snapshot of before and after a mod or what happens when you tweak this or that.
Thats why the same vehicle on two different Dyno's won't necessarily give the same results.
For example setting a chip on a Dyno would be a breeze compared to the trial and error on the street but yeah, no point in dynoing just for the sake of.

I agree with the sentiment of "just drive it".
Mine has no NADS, an EGR block Chip 3 inch 'zorst etc whilst I don't give it shyte 100% of the time it certainly gets metalled and taken to yellow line often enough.
If something is wrong then yes, fix it but otherwise just give it too it.

[Hodge]

Thanks for the write up evil. Good post.

@ Jamie
What sort of revs, are you getting when you're cruising at 100km/h ?

And also, what revs should the power peak at? I don't remember the last time mine went over 3k. I don't believe I never really needed to since to me sweet spot is somewhere between 2200-3000 that I'm aware of.
Maybe I don't flog it like it's meant to be . LOL