At a loss with spotties up front

[SonOf]

If you have a couple of alligator clips then fit them to the spottie and hook direct for the battery and see how they operate individually to check their operation. A nice strong connection to the battery will limit the likelihood you are getting a bad connection during your test causing them to flicker.

Will give it a second go tomorrow -I did wire them to the battery via their leads - that is when the positive wire got hot, though I did both at the same time - I will do one at a time tomorrow and see how it goes - if still the same issues then I will swap em out.

[fracster]

Just a thought, why not connect your old lights up to the new wiring, if they work OK, then the problem is with the new lights.

[SonOf]

Will try that as well, shall report back once done.
cheers

[the evil twin]

The relay coil needs to be high beam + ve to pin 86 and a seperate earth to pin 85 of the relay so I don't get why the hi beam indicator is also wired to your switch

To get the relay to activate you have a choice
a) wire from the high beam +ve or the indicator to the Driving light switch then to pin 86 then a wire from pin 85 to earth (if you use the headlamp socket this requires two wires into the cabin to the switch)
OR
b) wire from high beam +ve to pin 86 then a wire from pin 85 to the switch and then earth the other side of the switch (in the cabin is fine and only needs one wire thru the firewall)

The switching circuit will carry bugger all current so 3mm is waaaay big for that purpose. It will work but must have been a pain to strip and connect.

Either way the relay will only pull in if both the high beam positive is available and the switch is on.

[the evil twin]

Sorry for the split posts but....

You say teh HID's are hesitant to turn on when you hook them direct.
Depending on how good the ballasts are it may take as much as 5 to 10 seconds for the HIDs to come up.
In the interim they may initially flash a time or two and come on dull.

If that is all that is happening then it is probably normal

[the evil twin]

In the piccy you posted up the relay you purchased is a "changeover relay" not a dual output relay. Narva make both types and they will look the same physically from the pins

In a changeover relay...
When the relay is energised then pin 87 is powered from pin 30
When the relay is de-energised then pin 87A is powered from pin 30.

If you hook the changeover relay up like your schematic then one HID will always be on and when you select high beam the relay will activate and the HID that is on will turn off and the other HID will come on... switch it fast enough and you can have a disco

To do it like your schematic you need a relay with two pin 87's not an 87 and an 87A

It's no biggee for you. all you need do is power both lights from pin 87 and leave pin 87A vacant

[SonOf]

Well I have finally got around to working on this again. Been out of action since Boxing day with the ongoing argument with my back.

Anyway Santa alos gave me a Repco voucher so after some thought I went and grabbed a Narva wiring harness for spotties. Result is spotties are working fine, no shaking, no hot wires etc. So in the end, I cannot wire for sh#t it would appear and should not be allowed to play with electricity or electronics!

Again thankyou all who offered advice and help.