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Thread: Aluminium rear drawers - no welding!

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    Patrol Guru rkinsey's Avatar
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    Aluminium rear drawers - no welding!

    Hi Guys,

    Found this on Youtube (while I was looking for fridges believe it or not)

    Looks very easy for us novice DIYers...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaYrMPE9Td0

    Cheers,

    Rob
    Just about to jump into my next Patrol. A 2001 GU II TB45E .

    WARNING!: Do not ever use a towball as a recovery point. They are not rated and can become a deadly projectile during a recovery if they snap off, and they have done so with tragic results in the past.

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    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    I have a mate that has built 2 slip-on type campers for his Hilux using that system. Very strong, light and effective.
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    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    Yeah very handy items cant remember the alloy suppliers that sell it down here .
    I use some of the tubing when I made sand flags,

    Edit::: Smart Aluminium is the mob for all things aluminium or alloy stock

    @MR would think way much better than using pop rivets which would
    rattle themselves to bits in no time flat
    Last edited by threedogs; 16th December 2013 at 02:46 PM.
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    Patrol Freak lhurley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by threedogs View Post
    Yeah very handy items cant remember the alloy suppliers that sell it down here .
    I use some of the tubing when I made sand flags,

    Edit::: Smart Aluminium is the mob for all things aluminium or alloy stock

    @MR would think way much better than using pop rivets which would
    rattle themselves to bits in no time flat
    I was thinking about that too, i was thinking maybe use a rivnut to hold the tops and sides on, and then some big arse pop rivets to hold the joins together. Maybe some stainless bolts to hold the draw runners on.
    1999 GU DUAL FUEL 4.5 - 2" OME - 33's KM2s - SNORKEL - CUSTOM DINTS.... Goes by the name Candy (the car not me )

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    Patrol God BigRAWesty's Avatar
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    So how did it cost him??

    It was not a bad idea but I honestly do think it'll handle well once loaded?? I'll take a stab and say the bottom of the draws will fall away once loaded and will need pinning, then you plastic wears..

    And 18mm ply??? 12 is way more than enough to cover 600 gap spans..

    Good concept I give him that, but I still think a 12mm ply system is a better option, and is now weld..
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

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    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    All my mates are in the aviation industry and know all about pop rivets,
    they rattle loose too quick, they don't like movement let alone
    corrigations
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    Patrol God BigRAWesty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by threedogs View Post
    All my mates are in the aviation industry and know all about pop rivets,
    they rattle loose too quick, they don't like movement let alone
    corrigations
    Yea I dont like rivets on steel On steel where flex and vibrations are a given all the time..
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

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    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    From memory those connectors aren't cheap, but they make up with that with versatility.
    Would be ok for verticle divider and top shelf as well. I like em.
    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

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    He said the connectors are a dollar or two each in the video and i count around 70 of them and he used 6x6m of the alloy at 19$ a length and 60$ for ply no mention of price he got the runners for he only mentions the cost of the bearings he didnt use, so not including runners it would be around $314.

    What he didn't mention is the 90 deg angle used to reinforce the alloy on the sides and base of the draws and no mention of carpet price.
    And personally I would have put the base of the draws on top the frame to take the full load not under.
    i do like the idea of this system over using ply.

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Agree that 12mm ply would be plenty for the top. To hold the sheet metal on I reckon that sikaflex would do a great job, & use just a few rivets to hold the sheets in place whilst the sikaflex goes off. 3mm ply would probably be as good as the sheet aluminium as all it is doing is giving a bit of 'bracing' to the aluminium tube to help keep things square, & I'd reckon it might be a bit quieter too.

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