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16th December 2013, 02:30 PM
#1
Patrol Guru
Aluminium rear drawers - no welding!
Hi Guys,
Found this on Youtube (while I was looking for fridges believe it or not)
Looks very easy for us novice DIYers...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaYrMPE9Td0
Cheers,
Rob
Just about to jump into my next Patrol. A 2001 GU II TB45E .
WARNING!: Do not ever use a towball as a recovery point. They are not rated and can become a deadly projectile during a recovery if they snap off, and they have done so with tragic results in the past.
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16th December 2013 02:30 PM
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16th December 2013, 02:31 PM
#2
Moderator
I have a mate that has built 2 slip-on type campers for his Hilux using that system. Very strong, light and effective.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!!
....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy -->
MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by
Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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16th December 2013, 02:39 PM
#3
Patrol God
Yeah very handy items cant remember the alloy suppliers that sell it down here .
I use some of the tubing when I made sand flags,
Edit::: Smart Aluminium is the mob for all things aluminium or alloy stock
@MR would think way much better than using pop rivets which would
rattle themselves to bits in no time flat
Last edited by threedogs; 16th December 2013 at 02:46 PM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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16th December 2013, 03:43 PM
#4
Patrol Freak
Originally Posted by
threedogs
Yeah very handy items cant remember the alloy suppliers that sell it down here .
I use some of the tubing when I made sand flags,
Edit::: Smart Aluminium is the mob for all things aluminium or alloy stock
@MR would think way much better than using pop rivets which would
rattle themselves to bits in no time flat
I was thinking about that too, i was thinking maybe use a rivnut to hold the tops and sides on, and then some big arse pop rivets to hold the joins together. Maybe some stainless bolts to hold the draw runners on.
1999 GU DUAL FUEL 4.5 - 2" OME - 33's KM2s - SNORKEL - CUSTOM DINTS.... Goes by the name Candy (the car not me
)
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16th December 2013, 03:54 PM
#5
Patrol God
So how did it cost him??
It was not a bad idea but I honestly do think it'll handle well once loaded?? I'll take a stab and say the bottom of the draws will fall away once loaded and will need pinning, then you plastic wears..
And 18mm ply??? 12 is way more than enough to cover 600 gap spans..
Good concept I give him that, but I still think a 12mm ply system is a better option, and is now weld..
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16th December 2013, 03:58 PM
#6
Patrol God
All my mates are in the aviation industry and know all about pop rivets,
they rattle loose too quick, they don't like movement let alone
corrigations
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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16th December 2013, 04:10 PM
#7
Patrol God
Originally Posted by
threedogs
All my mates are in the aviation industry and know all about pop rivets,
they rattle loose too quick, they don't like movement let alone
corrigations
Yea I dont like rivets on steel On steel where flex and vibrations are a given all the time..
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16th December 2013, 04:59 PM
#8
Patrol God
From memory those connectors aren't cheap, but they make up with that with versatility.
Would be ok for verticle divider and top shelf as well. I like em.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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16th December 2013, 06:57 PM
#9
He said the connectors are a dollar or two each in the video and i count around 70 of them and he used 6x6m of the alloy at 19$ a length and 60$ for ply no mention of price he got the runners for he only mentions the cost of the bearings he didnt use, so not including runners it would be around $314.
What he didn't mention is the 90 deg angle used to reinforce the alloy on the sides and base of the draws and no mention of carpet price.
And personally I would have put the base of the draws on top the frame to take the full load not under.
i do like the idea of this system over using ply.
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The Following User Says Thank You to megatexture For This Useful Post:
Bloodyaussie (17th December 2013)
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16th December 2013, 07:02 PM
#10
Travelling Podologist
Agree that 12mm ply would be plenty for the top. To hold the sheet metal on I reckon that sikaflex would do a great job, & use just a few rivets to hold the sheets in place whilst the sikaflex goes off. 3mm ply would probably be as good as the sheet aluminium as all it is doing is giving a bit of 'bracing' to the aluminium tube to help keep things square, & I'd reckon it might be a bit quieter too.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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