OUR VIDEOS GALLERY MEMBER SPONSORSHIP VENDOR SPONSORSHIP

User Tag List

Page 1 of 8 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 78

Thread: twin e locker install

  1. #1
    Expert
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    106
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 19 Times in 18 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    twin e locker install

    beginning elocker install.
    here goes.
    my engine i out atm

    20131214_164628.jpg

    so it going to make access easy

    20131214_164635.jpg

    20131214_161931.jpg
    locker unpacked
    20131214_162802.jpg
    with new bearings
    20131214_163034.jpg
    all unpacked

  2. # ADS
    Circuit advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Posts
    Many

     

  3. #2
    Expert
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    106
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 19 Times in 18 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    i don't have the carrier bearing for the back yet still waiting on them so starting with the front.
    i'll try and do it step by step and in newby terms so anyone can follow and do it them self.
    however i do have a full work shop and rebuild motors and do conversions so you may need some special tool, eg. press, bearing puller etc.

  4. #3
    BIG & BALD MEGOMONSTER's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Western suburbs of Melbourne
    Posts
    13,274
    Thanks
    3,003
    Thanked 5,115 Times in 2,901 Posts
    Mentioned
    11 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by gqmoder View Post
    i don't have the carrier bearing for the back yet still waiting on them so starting with the front.
    i'll try and do it step by step and in newby terms so anyone can follow and do it them self.
    however i do have a full work shop and rebuild motors and do conversions so you may need some special tool, eg. press, bearing puller etc.
    I'm sure there'll be a few watching this with interest.
    2011 GU8 ST 3.0 CRD, ARB Bullbar with IPF spotties, scrub bars and side steps, Snorkel, Dual Battery system, Waeco fridge, Turbo Timer, ARB Roof Rack with 5 IPF spotties across the front, Custom full Leather Bucket seats, DPchip, 3" Taipan exhaust, ARE Intercooler & scoop, Autron EGT/Boost and dual volt gauges, ARB front locker.

  5. #4
    Expert
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    106
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 19 Times in 18 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    ok just yanked the first axle so ill stop for a beer and upload some pics

  6. #5
    Expert
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    106
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 19 Times in 18 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    ok remove the wheel and mark your hubs with a centre punch so you can put them back with the orientation and also using your centre punch put a little L and R on the left and right free wheeling hub respectively
    free wheeling hub bolts.jpg
    remove the free wheeling hub bolts with an allen key
    caliper 1.jpg
    remove the brake caliper
    caliper2.jpg
    wire up caliper.jpg
    and wire it up safe and sound DO NOT JUST LET IT HANG BY THE FLEXIBLE you will damage the line and it will split when your on the high way and you will die!!!!!
    look what found.jpg
    look what i found .... thats what happens when you travel around australia with 2 ton on the tow ball and do a few runs throw the desert, i'm up for new brake discs
    curclip.jpg
    there is a circlip in here you need to remove
    drive cliutch 1.jpg
    then you can remove the drive clutch
    52 mm nut.jpg
    you need to undo this nut with a 53 mm socket or a small chisel or screw driver and lightly tap it around they are not especially tight but there is a retaining washer behind it. so your a lead light to look for the little tabs and bend them back first. GU patrol ones are slightly different.
    tricky to remove.jpg
    this is the little retaining washer it can be a bit tricking to remove but you have gotten this far you will work it out ... use a little magnet on a stick thingy or do what i do as you can see in the pic.
    but wait theres more.jpg
    but wait there more .... YOU GET A SECOND BEARING RETAINING NUT FREE OF CHARGE!!!!!!!
    disk off.jpg
    slip the disk of and your left just with the stub axle like so
    remove brake guard bolt.jpg
    these bolts hold in place the brake shield and the stub axle
    tap tap.jpg
    very lightly just tap tap tap here until the stub axle moves away from the cv housing (cv = constant verlocity) DO NOT TAP ON THE MACHINED PARTS OF THE STUB AXLE YOU WILL WRECK IT.
    axle out 1.jpg
    remove the stub axle and your just left with the axle
    axle out2.jpg
    you only need to pop it out a little and leave it sitting in the housing
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 14th December 2013 at 08:40 PM. Reason: Language. Sorry mate. Family friendly. Google hates it too ;)

  7. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to gqmoder For This Useful Post:

    FNQGU (15th December 2013), Trolatron (14th December 2013)

  8. #6
    Expert
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    106
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 19 Times in 18 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    move to the other side of your truck and ....
    process repeat!

  9. #7
    Expert
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    106
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 19 Times in 18 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    ok second axle is out i just relised that i neglected to mention one of the first things you need to do is empty the diff oil use a breaker bar with an half inch drive to undo to bung in the bottom of the diff

  10. #8
    Expert
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    106
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 19 Times in 18 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    inspect everything as u go for wear and replace bearing if they have not been done. i did mine when i put my first locker in the front that i am now removing so i an not doing mine but i will still be putting everything thro the parts cleaner and re-packing it with grease.
    if you don't have a parts sleaner use those little cans of cheap stuff from supershit and a couple bags of rags and a tooth brush.

  11. #9
    Expert
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    106
    Thanks
    2
    Thanked 19 Times in 18 Posts
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    i am also planning on cleaning up my diff housings and rust using rust converter and coating them in chassis paint. i'm approaching the end of a worked 6.2 ltr chevy conversion for this thing so i'm going all the way because it's going to be coping some serious torque.i call it the chevtrol ... its going to be unstoppable!!!!
    Last edited by gqmoder; 14th December 2013 at 08:41 PM.

  12. #10
    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    15,394
    Thanks
    12,188
    Thanked 13,507 Times in 6,602 Posts
    Mentioned
    330 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Looks good mate. Can you tell us how much and where you got them from? Were they the same price front and back?
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
    Check out my Toy --> MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rogue Dung Beetle View Post
    Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
    The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
    WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.

Page 1 of 8 123 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •