My soundproofing job on doors.

[BigRAWesty]

Have a read threw this one Winnie, there's a bit more info on what each product does..
http://www.nissanpatrol.com.au/forum...d.php?p=439470

[Winnie]

Wouldn't the weight of the bitumen stop the vibrating too?

[threedogs]

Brushable Pitch/bitumen is an old school sound deadener works a treat under your 4x4 , stinks for a while too
4OFF is the man for clear tunes

[04OFF]

What do you think of the paint on bitumen deadener? I'm thinking about doing a few coats in the cargo area floor and wheel arches before I put the drawers in. Are product like dynamat etc completely waterproof? I would hate to have to rip it all out one day if I go swimming. What about the bitumen type paint on the doors (with a little of the dynamat type to cover the holes) to help with audio? Would be so much easier to apply than the stick on stuff. Just like SD I am not after perfect sound just some kickin tunes.

Remember , as i explained before, im talking about improving your "car audio", NOT noise reduction, doing the cargo area will do little to improve your speakers directly, but you may reduce
external noises, which does in turn improve your overall listening experience.


With audio system in mind, you are looking to seal the door/s to make a enclosure, and reduce door panel harmonics and vibrations, so dense and rigid (like a MDF/timber box), is what we are aiming for, dynamat is made for this, personally i don't use the spray/brush on stuff, i never liked how it stays kinda soft and is just messy in general, but i can't comment on whats available now, or how it works, as ive not used it for years.


IMO, dynamat has the huge advantage of a metal backing , its easy to get it thicker, cleaner, easy to apply (no masking), and looks proffessional, and i believe would offer much better acoustic results with regard to your doors, (but have not personally tested the spray stuff in doors)

You can also use a cheaper product called Flashtac (its a roofing product) but its like a cheap version of dynamat, ive tested and used this succesfully in a number of cars (inc one of my own) and of course its also 100% waterproof and a great option (thats what id use if on a budget)


Again, do not confuse what i am saying, the aim in doing your doors, is NOT any sort of noise reduction , in fact it will most likley make more noise (bass)

[Winnie]

Roger that, might look into it some more for some budget stuff, don't wanna go all out on the dynamat, that stuff is expensive haha. Roughly how much do you think I'd need for 2 GQ front doors?

[threedogs]

Bugger all Winnie check Bunnings or local Reece outlet

[BigRAWesty]

Roger that, might look into it some more for some budget stuff, don't wanna go all out on the dynamat, that stuff is expensive haha. Roughly how much do you think I'd need for 2 GQ front doors?

Have a look at the link mate. 4.5m2 for $150.. Heaps cheaper than dynamat, and exactly the same stuff, just no brand name..

[Winnie]

Have a look at the link mate. 4.5m2 for $150.. Heaps cheaper than dynamat, and exactly the same stuff, just no brand name..

Would that do both skins of the GQ door ya reckon?


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[BigRAWesty]

Would that do both skins of the GQ door ya reckon?


Sent from my iPad using Motorculture mobile app

Doors I think are 900x700. So I'd say it would do 3.
But if you do the paint on stuff on the skin and Mat outter you'd be set..

[04OFF]

Roger that, might look into it some more for some budget stuff, don't wanna go all out on the dynamat, that stuff is expensive haha. Roughly how much do you think I'd need for 2 GQ front doors?

One roll of 75mm x 10M (under $40 from bunnings last time i bought it) should be a good starting point , it comes in various widths, but i tend to use 75mm as its easy to manage/cut, you can get layer to bridge the large holes on the internal skin (this adds more rigidity/density, where there is zero door metal at all)


a few tips if you go ahead...


Remove door trim, plus you need to remove the factory plastic water sheet, Spray grease/lube all the catches, window mech, moving parts inside the door (so you hopefully don't need to get in there for a while)

Wipe everywhere inside the door skin with wax and grease remover first (or wherever you intend to stick the stuff )

Cut with a razor blade or sharp knife on a bit of waste board, use a heat gun/hairdryer to heat the panels (or leave car to heat in the sun), and heat each flashtac strip before application (this will make it bond very well)

Start horizontally at the top of the panel, then the next strip overlap about 2mm, this will allow you to get the strips very tight to avoid any vertical bleed out later.



When you do the inner door skin,

Before application ,make sure you look at "lock rods" and opening rods and how they move (rods that move when you pull the handle to open door) you need to make sure these can still move even if you get a bit of tar bleed out over time.

The one easy way, is where you want to overlay rods with your flashtac, just put a piece down in reverse, so the metal backing will make a barrier/slide, and certainly dont install it hard up against any rods so its touching anyway, you can use plasic sleeve or garden hose to the same effect.

Try and seal as much of the door as is realistic, but don't block the drain holes in the bottom of the door.



If you have room to mount the speaker itself on timber/MDF (12mm+ is ideal) this will also help, make the MDF as large as practical (and will fit with the door trim)

Results will vary depending on what speakers you have and how they are driven, but i guarantee you will be happy with the difference, i suggest you do one door first, and test against the "bare" side before you do it, while your testing, knock on the outside of the door you have NOT done with your knucle, then do the same on the flashtac door, then you will hear exactly what i mean about the "wood" effect.