My soundproofing job on doors.

[BigRAWesty]

I'll have to look into this flashtac?

Is it butyl or bitumen based?? I've read most house building items are bitumen based??

[04OFF]

Bitumen.

This is what a roll looks like (48mm x 10M)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BEAR-FLAS...31071910675%26

[04OFF]

I should add, I installed flashtac in some car doors in the same method as previously mentioned, i inspected inside the same doors over 13 (yes, thirteen) years later, and it was still sweet, it was a dark coloured car that lived outside 24/7 too !

[BigRAWesty]

Ok, not to stir pots but my question has been answered. It is a bitumen based rubber.

But also that stuff works out to be $63 ish/m2.
The butyl mat I bought is $33/m2
Hell even dynamat works out cheaper if you buy it at $200 for 3,5m2..

[04OFF]

Ok, not to stir pots but my question has been answered. It is a bitumen based rubber...

No probs whatsoever bud

Flastac is a Bitumen based product with a thin metal backing, i don't know if it has any rubber content, or any more info about the make-up/properties , but i guess you could contact Bear (manufaturer) if you need to know more ?

But also that stuff works out to be $63 ish/m2.
The butyl mat I bought is $33/m2
Hell even dynamat works out cheaper if you buy it at $200 for 3,5m2..

Yeh for sure, like i said, i moved on from car audio into home theatre some time ago, (and since moved on to Pro Audio), the principles are still the same, but obviously prices of things have changed.

Id still concider flashtac myself, as i know it works and have real world tested the product for the application, and coming in strips sure makes installation inside a door cavity easy.


I encourage people to try new products, thats how i learned and discovered some great stuff, if you can get something cheaper you think will work in your doors, go for it, as long as it waterproof of course !

[BigRAWesty]

No probs whatsoever bud

Flastac is a Bitumen based product with a thin metal backing, i don't know if it has any rubber content, or any more info about the make-up/properties , but i guess you could contact Bear (manufaturer) if you need to know more ?





Yeh for sure, like i said, i moved on from car audio into home theatre some time ago, (and since moved on to Pro Audio), the principles are still the same, but obviously prices of things have changed.

Id still concider flashtac myself, as i know it works and have real world tested the product for the application, and coming in strips sure makes installation inside a door cavity easy.


I encourage people to try new products, thats how i learned and discovered some great stuff, if you can get something cheaper you think will work in your doors, go for it, as long as it waterproof of course !

Yea it's all rubber, Its the compound that changes. They call it bitumen as its similar to the stuff they build roads with.
It's not actually road with gravel and all..

It's amazing how much difference this foam makes. I wonder if it will aid or hinder sound??
Sure Its adding thickness to the pannel but how much is it absorbing

[04OFF]

Yea it's all rubber, Its the compound that changes. They call it bitumen as its similar to the stuff they build roads with.
It's not actually road with gravel and all..

So your saying i should not re-do my driveway with it then (lol)

It's amazing how much difference this foam makes. I wonder if it will aid or hinder sound??
Sure Its adding thickness to the pannel but how much is it absorbing

I think you need to look at what each product does, the dynamat type products "block" or stop sound, the foam type products "absorb" or control sound, two different things.




You can of course obtain good results with foam inside some speaker enclosures, but generally its to make the box "appear" larger to the speaker, the problem is, as i see it, most people put small (6 inch) speakers in car doors, IMO, the standard door enclosure is not sealed properly and so already too big, it almost could be compared to a infinate baffle configuration IMO.


I would suggest the "last thing" your 6 inch speaker needs, is a huge unsealed enclosure, so "if" foam may make this enclosure appear even bigger, i doubt it will make things sound better, as a big a speaker box can make mechanical damping poor, and the sound may lack some definition, also power handling of the speaker may be less, since the infinite baffle type enclosure provides little control over cone excursion (speaker travel/movement).

Think of it llike a car engine with no load, it can free rev very easy, but its easy to go past its limits and do damage, a speaker can, over heat, things start clipping, this destroy amps and speakers all in the one go (ive had it happen)

Just my opinion, every car/speakers are different, so happy to be proved wrong.

[BigRAWesty]

What you say makes sence. I added quilt stuffing to the rear doors to add depth to my 6x9's but am moving them to the middle doors as the draw system blocks the rear doors.
The stuffing a good bass line, but with the Windows in the middle doors this ain't an option.
I'll see how they preform, and the decide if I need extra rubber to seal the door in.

Im hoping the setup I'm doing helps hold sound in, with the alloy film it should do something..

[threedogs]

So Kallen 2 thumbs up on this product??
I'll wait till its all back together and you crank up the tunes.
As 4OFF says its about clear tunes not road noise where ppl get confused

[BigRAWesty]

I'm going for a quieter ride, not audio.
I'll expect some audio gain, but I won't be double skinning it..