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29th November 2013, 10:01 AM
#61
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
AB
12 hour report...
Main = 12.85
Deep cycle = 13
Do you have a wet starter & an AGM deep cycle?
I reckon those readings are ok.
You can double check each of them by connecting a small load . eg. A headlamp globe for say, 15 minutes. Whilst connected you should expect the voltage to drop. After disconnecting the load, let the battery sit for at least 30 minutes & then check the voltage again. If it has come back up to 12.7V+ the battery is good & not the problem.
Rewiring the gauges to only be powered once the ignition is on seems like a good idea. Very small current drains add up when occurring 24/7.
Once all that is done & back together, think about buying, borrowing or asking Santa for a clamp meter. They are useful tools to have in your arsenal. Cheap clamp meters available on eBay will be sufficient provided they have a DC current measuring capability ( not all do). With ignition turned off, put clamp meter around one of the battery cables ..... You should get a zero amp reading. Any reading means your search for a phantom drain is not yet over.
Cuppa
Last edited by Cuppa; 29th November 2013 at 10:03 AM.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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The Following User Says Thank You to Cuppa For This Useful Post:
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29th November 2013 10:01 AM
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29th November 2013, 01:26 PM
#62
Patrol God
My son is auto lek and asking him about wire going to start battery and his answer was "WHY" ,
My thinking is it would go to ignition as you think , can see why it would need to be live at anytime,
unless it had recall function
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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The Following User Says Thank You to threedogs For This Useful Post:
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1st December 2013, 12:03 PM
#63
Administrator
Crap forgot about this...
Main: 12.7
Deep cycle: 13
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1st December 2013, 12:08 PM
#64
Patrol God
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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1st December 2013, 07:08 PM
#65
Administrator
Originally Posted by
threedogs
So still good to go eh.
Yeah it might of been a lot slower drain than I thought.
My car can sit for a fortnight before I start feeling guilty and take it for drive to keep it chugging along.
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2nd December 2013, 07:30 PM
#66
Administrator
Originally Posted by
AB
Crap forgot about this...
Main: 12.7
Deep cycle: 13
Same results today. Not sure what's happening now but seems its not as bad as what I thought.
I won't drive it this week and see how it is come Friday.
After that ill re wire the pyro and most likely that will fix it.
Thanks again for everyone's advice.
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2nd December 2013, 09:51 PM
#67
Just out of interest - what is your crank battery? Some handle minor discharges a lot better than others when sitting for weeks at a time.
I go away for 4 weeks of work at a time, and was experiencing flat batteries when coming back. The drain was the stereo and the immobiliser, and even though it was a very minor drain, which if the vehicle was being used regularly wouldn't have made a difference, 4 weeks would see the battery flat.
I have changed my crank battery recently to an AGM (Optima Blue Top D27, as I had it handy) and am in the process of fitting a BMS to manage my Aux battery (for other reasons), but am looking forward to how it goes handling the minor drain. My reckoning is that it should be fine or at least a whole lot better. The previous battery was an Optima Red Top, which while it is a fantastic crank battery, it had virtually no capacity to handle a constant load, even if minor, over any period of time.
Between Patrols ATM. Had a beaut GU with 6.5 Chev TD. Next is a GU ute with a 4.5 litre Cummins conversion and a camper on the back.
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3rd December 2013, 04:46 PM
#68
Administrator
Sorry Cuppa and Ben, missed this post...
My cranking is
N50ZZLMF 600CCA
- Size (mm) 261x173x225
- Size Code 10
- Weight (kg) 19.8
- CCA 600
Delivering high cranking power for quick starts. Superior vibration resistance for extra long life.
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Deep Cycle
Stowaway (ED5 Replacement)
- Size (mm) 304x174x225
- Size Code 12
- Weight (kg) 21.3
- CCA 680
- Amp/HR 95
Excellent cycling for long operating hours, built to withstand rugged recreational use. The choice for remote operation over extended periods in caravans, motor homes and camper trailers.
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3rd December 2013, 07:48 PM
#69
Administrator
Todays report...
Crank = 12.6
Deep cycle = 13
Seems that the Piranha system is working keeping the drain isolated and seems the drain from cranking so far is very very slow.
I'm going to have to drive the car this weekend, so after Saturday's report I will re wire the pyro and most likely that will fix the issue anyway.
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15th January 2014, 07:46 AM
#70
Beginner
Last edited by Faisal; 15th January 2014 at 04:01 PM.
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