ZD30 Overheating....checked everything....now what?

[Taygz]

Ok here is the run down....

Car started to get warm (no more than 3/4 on the gauge) paticularly when towing. On a recent 600km round trip to tom price the car got warm with out towing but the it was 40+ out side. Turned the heater on and the temp went down. Travel slower and the temp went down....

Replaced the viscous coupling including water pump, thermostat and even wheel beerings.
Still over heated.......

Had radiator rodded out....still over heated.....

replaced thermostat again and still over heating.......


Car has intercooler fan, blocked EGR, boost lmited to 16psi, cleaned MAF....
ran ECUtalk and confirmed temps gtting to 109 degrees when gauge at 3/4.


ANY IDEAS?

[YNOT]

It could be a faulty temperature sender unit. ECUtalk gets it's information from the same sender as the cars temp gauge.

Tony

[Taygz]

Oh ok cool, i have a new one on the way and a new MAF too....fingers crossed!

[Taygz]

ok replaced the coolant temp sensor and hoses but its still getting warm

Any advice?

Could it be timing? and can it be changed/checked?

[Simon]

are you getting any water loss from the radiator OR is water getting into the oil in the motor OR are you getting water transferring to the overflow bottle when driving?

[Taygz]

No water loss, no water in oil and no oil in water.......

Overflow works as it should......fills up slightly when warm then sucks it back when cooling down.

NEXT?!?

[the ferret]

Timing won't have changed unless someone has had a go at it for some reason, yeah, I would start with the temp sender as said, and do a compression test urgently.

[Chops]

0208 Overheating Fault
Cooling Fan system failure, Engine coolant re-filling procedure not followed,
Cooling system faulty, Engine lubrication problem

[Taygz]

ok let me just go over what i have done again...

New coolant sensor
New MAF
New Radiator hoses
Radiator Rodded
Block fushed
New wheel bearings
Blocked EGR
Boost limited to 16psi
New Viscous hub and water pump.
Relocated number plate
Removed spot lights
Have Ecutalk...throws no fault codes
No water in oil
No oil in water
No coolant loss
Overflow system works as designed
Flushed engine oil with CEM
New air and oil filters

Is there anything i missed?


oops forgot about the new thermostats and the new radiator caps.....

[Simon]

Well firstly you only fushed your block... ha... okay so I take it your a little over this...

You could try replacing the radiator cap especially if it is an old one...

The radiator cap is designed to hold the fluid up to a pressure which allows it to heat past 100degrees at times. When this happens the radiator becomes more efficient at removing heat. If the cap is leaking it will not allow you to get any pressure etc etc...

that is not a likely cause but its possible...

Have you checked the thermostat in the block? If not I would suggest pulling it out, put it in a pot on the stove and heat the water till it boils. Just before it boils bubbles will appear on the base of the pot... That occurs at about 90 ish degrees. When that happens the thermostat should open. If not wait till boiling, if it never opens then replace.

After doing that fill the radiator with tap water to start and run the motor for a while until the temp comes up. The thermostat should open and as it does the radiator will become empty (if it does keep topping it up with water) if it doesnt it might be full. What you are looking for is that you should see a flow of water past the radiator cap. If you cant tell put in a cup full of radiator fluid it will pump around and you will see the water change colour as it moves around and mixes.

If you are not getting good flow or any flow you may find that there is a restriction somewhere in the radiator system.

It sounds to me from reading your posts that the radiator cap is the source of your problems though. Even if it looks good its probably not. A test is to get a new one and hold it back to back with the old one. crush the springs closed in your hands while they are back to back. The one that crushes first will be the old one. If it fully crushes and the other cap is still only half crushed then your spring is old and losing tension...

Try this and report back