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21st January 2011, 03:12 PM
#11
Legendary
now then all you tail light junkies dont forget to change the fuses indicators/reverse/stop as there is a greater load on the system
also the hazard fuse aswell some under dash one in engine bay
it pays to change them believe me
just think when you tow something yes there is extra lights now add on the new ones you have just installed makes sence
stephen
2007 GU 6 /ST-L / MYO8 / DIESEL/AUTO /MOONSTONE /pro vent 200
OH LEATHER IS NICE
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21st January 2011 03:12 PM
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Circuit advertisement
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21st January 2011, 11:02 PM
#12
Advanced
My pleasure AB. I will take some more pics tomorrow showing how to remove the tail lights and of the lights on at night so you can see how bright they are.
Stephen you make a good point about the added load BUT as these cars come with all these lights as standard overseas...should they not be rated for the lights already? I have a digital manual for the GU that includes the OS models and the wiring diagrams all show the same fusses so I THINK it should be fine. That said, I'm not an auto electrician and would love to hear the opinion of one. If you are one Stephen or if there are ANY others here that read this, please feel free to fill us in. Once again Stephen, great point. Something I had not thought of! Thanks mate.
Shayne
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21st January 2011, 11:29 PM
#13
The easy way to find out if the fuses are up to the task is hook up a trailer and go for a drive.
Another way around it is to replace the bulbs with LED's to reduce current drawer.
Thanks for the step by step instructions.
Tony
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21st January 2011, 11:31 PM
#14
I am he, fear me
... not an Auto sparkie but very closely related.
Stephen has a point but there should be enough overhead in the existing fuses to handle the mod.
If in doubt use those nifty LED bulbs instead of incandescents... they should also last longer for those with Draw systems.
A word to the wise about fuses while on the subject. Automotive Fusing design is rated for the current capacity of the wiring not the equipment load.
Be very wary of "just" putting in larger fuses in a circuit. When a fuse blows it is telling you that the maximum design capacity of the wiring has been exceeded
Last edited by the evil twin; 21st January 2011 at 11:39 PM.
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22nd January 2011, 10:28 AM
#15
Legendary
inknow the wireing can handle it but just to be safe when towing with the extra current draw it is a safer to change than going the extre expence of changing the globes to led that amount to change the gloges could be expensive
stephen
2007 GU 6 /ST-L / MYO8 / DIESEL/AUTO /MOONSTONE /pro vent 200
OH LEATHER IS NICE
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22nd January 2011, 12:59 PM
#16
I am he, fear me
Originally Posted by
my third
inknow the wireing can handle it but just to be safe when towing with the extra current draw it is a safer to change than going the extre expence of changing the globes to led that amount to change the gloges could be expensive
stephen
You missed my point. I am saying that if you are blowing fuses it means the factory wiring design load has 'technically' CAN'T handle the current flowing in the circuit.
It is definitely NOT SAFER to arbitarily change the fuse. You can't just keep loading a circuit and upping the fuse value till they stop blowing as the fuse are the safety device telling something is wrong. Sure equipment that needs protection has a specific fuse for it such as say, Two Ways (2 amps maybe 5 if it is hi power) but we are talking vehicle wiring here
The quick and dirty way to determine if the wiring can handle it is...
1. Look at the existing fuse size and multiply it by 12 IE a 10 amp fuse X 12 equals 120 watts
2. Add up the wattage of the bulbs in the circuit.
3. If the total wattage is 100 or less then you will be fine
4. If it is around 120 to 130 then meah should be OK (fuses blow significantly above rating and vehicle voltage is normally better than 12 so less currrent flows in circuit)
5. If it is 150 or more definitely do it a different way
EG Brake lights (using values purely as an example) ... 2 x 21 Watt in the bar, 2 X 21 watt in the "new" lights, 2 x 21 watt in the trailer = 126 watts so just OK for 10 amp wiring.
In my case I have LED's in the repeaters on the vehicle and a couple of my trailers so only around 50 to 60 watts load so all is tickety boo
Why would you go to all the effort and expense of plumbing in a Christmas Tree and risk burning out a loom for a couple of bucks (well $20 a pair for B15's)
Last edited by the evil twin; 22nd January 2011 at 01:15 PM.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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24th January 2011, 02:24 AM
#17
Beginner
nice ive had a bit of a look at doin this myself but went in the anotherday basket, and now i know why they dont work i knew there must be some logic behind an other wise silly thing to do
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24th January 2011, 08:37 PM
#18
Advanced
On that note, about the wire rating...I was VERY careful to;
1/ Use the largest gauge wire possible for the earth.
2/ Match the wire I used to link the left side with the right, with the same gauge wire as the original loom I was breaking into! My wire colour wasn't the same but the gauge was! You can see the different sizes in the plug photo.
You must look at wire like a hose. It is designed and rated to handle a certain amount of current. If you try to force too much water pressure through a hose it will burst open...right! SO, if you try to force too much current/amps through a piece of wire it will...BURST!!! Result, at best the wire will heat up and melt the insulation. At worst, it will do the same and maybe even catch fire OR, once the insulation is melted and the wire exposed, cause a short and catch fire!!! This is NOT an "as if" statement but a fact that has destroyed thousands of cars, houses, etc. in Australia and killed many people.
As such, I agree that changing the fuses to a higher amp rating is a BAD idea and if there is a problem due to the extra lights (I have towed my boat trail and box trailer with no mishap thus far) I will simply change to LED's which I would like to do anyway due to both the power saving and the extra light they provide. Just my 2c worth.
Shayne
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3rd February 2011, 12:15 AM
#19
Beginner
great info ..i have done this mod also,i found that falcon AU sedan rear tail light loom works a treat as it has rubber grometts around bulb holder's,they seal very good when you hole saw the blank's out in patrol tail light.s.just a little bit of info..cheep as from wrecker's..see yah..
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20th March 2011, 07:05 PM
#20
Expert
AHA! I recently got my first Patrol (2006 GU) and after reading this, I ducked out and looked at my tail lights. I didn't realise that those big expensive looking tail lights were only good for indicating I was in reverse! Whenever I have previously checked the lights, I always got someone to stand at the back while I operated them!
Now.......do I need to add this to my long list of Patrol addons/accessories/tasks....
Cheers,
Steve
Edit: After posting the above I went out to "fix" my drivers side rear reverse light. LOL! There isn't one. I did find an ants nest in there so it was worth the effort looking. LOL! Thanks for the info.
Last edited by frenzy; 20th March 2011 at 07:31 PM.
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