-
16th September 2014, 09:59 PM
#11
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
dads tractor
where are you going too put the sealant cuppa ? the idea is for the outside of the rubber to release the pressure from the inside hence only screwed down the centre line and any water dust crud will push back against the frame.
Aha! I had misunderstood - actually to be more accurate - had misread what you wrote. I was thinking that the vents would be a perfect place to allow water in during river crossings, hence my thoughts of sealant, but having re-read your post, now understand sealant to be unnecessary . So you leave the louvres off all together? Have you tested it in vent deep water yet?
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
-
-
16th September 2014 09:59 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
-
17th September 2014, 08:54 AM
#12
No all I've done cuppa is cleaned everything inside then traced around the outside of the plastic vent and used the original screws to hold the rubber strip to the outside face .All the original bits are still insitu.
No I haven't tried it in deep water yet and probably wont as that is .7m deep water to the base of the vent so water will find its way in elsewhere I'm thinking .(read chicken shit )
Last edited by dads tractor; 17th September 2014 at 09:12 AM.
U have 4 choices in life :U can like it; lump it; love it or shove it, take your pick and stick to it !
-
-
2nd December 2014, 05:06 PM
#13
Hmmm I should get onto this. Only problem is that I won't be able to remove the plastic vent without lifting my canopy off. Might be time to revert to the steel tray for a bit.
-
-
12th January 2015, 12:10 PM
#14
Found new rust haven in GU .The front chassis cross member (supports the radiator , inner guards ) Go to the front of vehicle RHS and look at the taper from the vertical radiator support to the outside of the cross member and see if there are rust holes in there. We looked at 3 gu cabs and all had varying degrees of rust but the LHS were all ok. As luck would have it we were able too cut the front out as the top and bottom were clean and sand blast, wire brush clean, rust convertor then a plate welded over and paint all should be good.
U have 4 choices in life :U can like it; lump it; love it or shove it, take your pick and stick to it !
-
-
12th January 2015, 12:35 PM
#15
Patrol God
Reece plumbing sell sheet rubber called insertion rubber only 2-3mm thick, its used for making Flange gaskets ,
but sounds perfect for this job. Not expensive as well which is always good
Its made from 4 layers with cloth to bond it together so very tough
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
-
The Following User Says Thank You to threedogs For This Useful Post:
dads tractor (12th January 2015)
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote