Emu's ABH & CSR Trip

[macca]

We called ourselves the Emu's, as we had a trip shirt with an Emu on it

Maccas trip report.

PART I; Preparations and the Anne Beadell Highway
.
Six vehicles were going to meet up in a few days down the track, it had taken a lot of work over the last six months to get to this day. Add that to the preparations for the eighteen months previous we had been all been focused on today's date, the 13th of July.

In 2008 we were somewhere in the Simpson desert more than likely sitting around the glowing coals of a camp fire, the conversation was about what we might do next.

That's when the Canning was first mentioned.

Jimbo said if you are going to do a trip like that I want to be a starter, well that was one vehicle.

Ted & Judy are always up for a trip as is their son Scott. Of course I'm keen to see our outback so we had four.

The ensuing years saw trips to;
2009 South East Queensland and Northern NSW called "the 7 wonders trip".
2010 the trip crossed the continent via the Anne Beadell to Exmouth for my Dad's 80th birthday, followed the next year by a trip along the Darling River from Brewarrina to Wentworth.
2012 I missed the next trip to Birdsville and the Flinders Ranges in 2012 which Ted led.

On all of those trips were a core of regulars with people coming on some and not on others, all were great travelling companions and all were invited to join the original four.
Gary was keen, he and his mate Rick started setting up a Holden ute, but at our pre trip get together in late 2012 Rick pulled up in an 75 series Cruiser. It didn't take him long to change his mind about leaving the Holden at home!

We were now five.

Others said they would like to come but in the end could not, which was a disappointment to us all.

Then at Christmas during a visit to family in Victoria my nephew Scott said he would like to join us, of course everyone was keen for him, Mandy and the 3 kids Grace, Will and Sammy to join us.

They made up the final number of vehicles at six, Scott needed to tow a trailer as packing for 5 in a VW Amorok was just too hard.

During our trip to WA in 2010 we met some fellow travellers in a Camel Trophy Press Land Rover, Mike and Anne are a lovely couple from the UK and had transported their Landy to Australia for an extended holiday. Unfortunately an accident cut the trip short and they returned home.

Ted was in touch with them, extending an invitation to join him and Judy in their Cruiser. They accepted, and flights were booked. Landing in Sydney and departing Darwin with connections in between. It was so nice to see them again and spend some time in their company for this trip.

Four adults in one car meant they also needed a trailer.

Permits, fuel drops, shirts, trip books, contact details (family and emergency), itinerary and newsletters were all organised or sent out. Vehicle preparation, stowing all the bits and bobs needed for so long in the bush had us all scratching our heads trying to get it all just right. Then long life engine oil, fuel, food, water clothing and other essentials were attended to, it seemed never ending.

Finally here we are on the Saturday morning of departure for us on the coast, Jimbo and Margie were already in Broken Hill catching up with his brother Boonkie.

Rick and Gary had left from Grafton that morning and the Tymkin's had left Melbourne the day before.

Both Moncrieff cars and myself with my Dad Tom left Nabiac heading west over the Barrington's. Judy was not with us and we would not see her again until Wiluna as a family function was happening the next weekend. At the end our trip we only had 9 nights where Judy was in camp with us.

We arrived at Nyngan for the first night after meeting Gary and Rick just out of town. Scott had troubles with his 40, a steering bush was seriously damaged and the car was a handful to steer. Also the clutch slave cylinder failed so he had to keep fluid up to it as best he could.

The second night was at Boonkie's weekender in Menindee, he had a camp oven dinner prepared and the water hot on the shower. They had bought a new slave cylinder from Broken Hill that Mike and Scott fitted to the 40. Mike turned out to be a good mechanic.

It was a great night by the fire as the Tymkin's joined our trip there. So with Jim and Margie there as well we were all together. The kids handed out everyone's trip book and personalised trip shirt. It was "shirt day" the next day and didn't we look smart.

We drove into Broken Hill and had a look around while Scott tried to get his steering repaired. They needed to wait for the mechanic so the rest of us pushed on to Peterborough, we had a nice camp there in the van park utilizing the camp kitchen and improvising toasting marshmallows with the kids without coals from a fire.

The next morning after BBQ bacon and eggs we had a guided tour of the Steamtown Railway Museum. The place was a huge railway workshop that serviced trains of three different gauges.... very interesting.
We got going about midday heading to Port Augusta then north to Pimba. The Museum at Woomera was closed and would be open at 10.00am in the morning, we satisfied ourselves with a good look at all the rockets and planes in the park outside.

Back to the Roadhouse car park at Pimba for a very cold camp.

We made the best of what we had, deciding to skip the museum in the morning and push on to Coober Pedy. It was fresh food day and a chance to get some washing done before starting on the Anne Beadell Highway. It was another bleak day in Coober Pedy so we were glad to get out of there and set up camp somewhere past Mabel Creek Station to wait for the Moncrieff's.

We had driven over some rougher tracks with deflated tyres to get to this fantastic campsite. This is what we came out here for, I was so glad to be here, fan-bloody-tastic.

The next morning were heard cars going by and called them on the UHF, we were all together again. The ABH is fairly rough at this end and covering 157klm for the day was quite an achievement. Camping 40klm short of Totem II was agreed to be enough for the day and we again enjoyed our wonderful outback to the maximum. Scott's car was fixed and going well, all was good.

The Anne Beadell Highway is 1300klm long and is so far removed from a highway it is hard to describe. It is corrugated, smooth, rocky, steep, wet, boggy and undulating all in one package, keeping your eyes on the track and an ear for a "heads up" on the UHF is a must.

The forth day on the Highway we had stopped for smoko, Ted led off with Anne in the passenger's seat. The Tymkin's were next with me following. Then someone, it was Scott Tymkin said "STOP STOP- WE HAVE A ROLLOVER - STOP STOP". I thought we had come upon another parties accident. I could see the floor of a car blocking the track but that was all, couldn't see the trailer in front of the Tymkin's. Ted had caught a sand bank with a front tyre and it pulled him into it with the momentum pushing him sideways, Ted reckoned the trailer contributed to pushing him on his side. Both him and Anne were OK although it took a while to get them unclipped and out.

As others looked after them Rick and I concentrated on the recovery. The Treg hitch had snapped leaving the trailer hanging precariously on the safety chains. Once the people were extracted safely I took charge of the recovery, all those years recovering my Hilux had taught me something!

I apologise for being very forceful in how the recovery was going to take place. Rick and I had formulated a plan while others had looked after the people. We needed to know that no one was anywhere near the trailer or
car when we were doing what we had to do, if it went bad or even when it was moving we knew no-one was in a position of danger.

We got the trailer out of the way, righted the vehicle and pulled it clear of the track as there were other cars wanting to get past! Some sorted out the Cruiser, getting it ready to be started and starting it with no worries, well done team (Mike again).

I assessed the hitch, it was made from cast iron. We are in it now, this is real bad.

I had made up a bush welder out of bits and bobs in the shed plus a visit to Supercheap for a few battery terminals.

I have never welded cast as it is a specific technique with special rods. All I had were general purpose rods, well let's give it a go. I had seen it welded once years ago. We connected three batteries in series and struck an arc with a 2.5mm rod that just melted, I had some 3.25mm rods which worked better. But the arc just blew the cast away like a thermal lance, oh shit.

Tried a short tack then chip the slag away, bit by bit it built up a weld that eventually held it all together and lasted until Wiluna where a new hitch was fitted. It probably took an hour to weld.

The trailer was saved, and a whole lot of money calling someone out there to fix it!!!

The 5th and 7th day the Tymkin trailer busted the front off both springs, reversing the spring and fitting a block of wood for the broken end to "slip" on got him to Wiluna for replacements as well.
On day six Scott's shock mount on a spring plate broke, he went on to Laverton to replace that. The rest of us had a short day and stayed at Ilkurlka for washing and time out while the Moncrieff's went on to effect repairs.

The ABH was a great shake down for what was to come on the Canning Stock Route, we didn't know it but we had found most of our weaknesses. We still had issues but that is later......

We got onto the tar to head north to Wiluna, restocked everything for the next few weeks on the CSR, stopped at Leinster for a cheap camp with free washing machine and dryers. We had dinner in the miners mess, Indonesian Night and 12 flavours of ice cream. What a treat $25 per head and a beer thrown in, fantastic night.

Caught up with the Moncrieff's at Gunbarrel Laager east of Wiluna, they had repaired their vehicles and had the Tymkin's replacement springs. We had them fitted within an hour. The trailers cannot enter the stock route lower than well 5 so Gary and Rick, Jim and Margie plus Dad and I headed to the start of The Canning, the others would be heading out on the bypass in the morning.

to be continued................

[macca]

Part II; The Canning Stock Route

It was an interesting start to the Canning, the road out of Wiluna is graded but the moment you turn off it it's so bad with nasty rocks waiting to smash a sidewall. We were travelling at 10 - 15klm per hour for a lot of this section.

It was a good idea not to stay with the trailers and try to make well 1 - 5 in a single day, it would have been foolish to push in those conditions. The rest left Wiluna about 10.00amnext morning and easily arrived at well 5 in the day via Granite Peak Station.

We were stopped by a fellow traveller just past well 2, he said there were no campsites this side of well 3. He has a funny idea of what a camp site consists of. I think he just wanted someone else to talk to, he was good at that then he started a generator uuuurrrrgggghhhh.

We managed 163klm the next day and arrived at the fully restored well 5 to find our fellows already set up and a fire waiting for a match. It was good to be together again. The well here is restored with steel fence gates etc, not how Canning built them but the water is good and was fun to get the kids lift a few buckets of water up to the trough.

Had a small issue with packing the Jimmy's Thunderbox before all had a chance to use it, the general call out to each camp / car didn't work so individual confirmations were made from then on, sorry about that. The thunderbox worked well and latrine duties were shared by all which was a great thing as it didn't become one person's job for the trip. Privacy and hygiene were all handled well. Well done everyone.

Camping like we were we had no tummy upsets which was quite a testament to our preparations.

On the 27th we were travelling between wells 6 and 7, I had a feeling we would meet a special lady soon announcing my thoughts on the UHF, within a kilometre there she was. A lovely South African lady, Gaynor Schoeman was walking the CSR solo and unassisted. With a friend they had driven north over 11 days!!!! stopping every 21klm to bury a supply of water and food etc. As soon as they reached Billiluna in the north she set off back south again completing her expedition about a week after we saw her. She was in good spirits and very healthy, she was loaded with fruit and sweets and enjoyed sucking on some ice cubes from the freezer!! A wonderful spirited women who not too long ago broke her back paragliding, what great therapy....

We left her after a half hour or more of talk and photos heading to well 9 (Weld Spring) for a camp. This well site is in ruin but has yards and a windmill which travellers are asked not to camp within a kilometre of. There is a 10' x 9' x 7' high "fort" built here by John Forrest to defend his team of explorers from "hostile natives" who attempted a "murderous attack". After a good look around we moved on a further 10klm for our camp.

Both my under bonnet batteries failed today, they both went open circuit under start load. I have since been told the welding stressed them and the corrugations finished them off. One was 12 months old and was
reimbursed under warrantee. In future a couple of extra batteries for welding might be better than using the cars. Is it worth the weight though?

From now on I need a tow to start my car, I still had a battery for the fridge and manually linked the isolators to keep it charging. Then the under bonnet batteries completely failed, no dash lights at all, I disconnected the useless batteries and bypassed the isolators so the ignition would work off the auxiliary and open the fuel valve also power the UHF for towing comms.

Kunawarritji had some in stock and were trying to get someone to bring them south to me, unfortunately that didn't happen so tow starts were the norm. When we got there they had sold them to another with similar problems that morning, but found some from their vehicles, but it turned out both of them were duds as well... $350 blown.

We managed to keep going.

A couple of days later we were at Durba Springs, what a gem in the desert. I drove to a slightly elevated spot that looked level, I had parked beside a small body of water that was unseen until I actually drove there. It was beautiful with the white trunks of the river gums against the red rock wall of the Gorge and all reflected in the still water. I have a level in the cab for the roof top tent, it was perfectly flat. I shut the engine down, I was going nowhere.

Gary later told me he had said to Rick "follow Iain and Tom, they will find a good spot!" they parked right behind us. It was simply stunning.
Funnily enough after all the years camping it becomes a natural thing to do, one look at an area and I park where there is enough room, its level and the morning sun is on the kitchen side or the view is fantastic. It's not very often I need to relocate the vehicle.

2 nights here was not enough... next time a longer stay is a must. The walks are amazing and the Killagurra Springs just back towards the CSR is absolutely incredible, this is a very sacred site for the Martu People and has some pristine (read not vandalised) rock art that I was so glad to be able to see. Dad is in his 80's and stopped just short of the art site, we went back and helped him past the difficult part of the track so he could see this, a very special place.

With our 6 there were 24 cars there, looked like Christmas on the coast. Washing was hand done and hung out to dry, vehicles checked, lubed, bolts tightened, fluids topped up etc. Once that was all done the welcome rest was well received by all.

Travelling the CSR is essentially well to well, but, there are some amazing natural and historic sites along the way. Great camp sites, graves, gorges, rock holes, soaks, significant Aboriginal sites, landscapes, flora in all its beauty due to recent rains, fauna be it feral or indigenous it is just endless and so spectacular that the hardship getting there is soon forgotten.

Travelling like this is as good as it gets.

It is stressful when something goes wrong. After leaving Durba a few dunes were too much for the 80 to pull the trailer up and it was decided to use Jim's 200 to get it through. Not as easy as we all thought, the 200 didn't struggle but didn't do it easy either. Some alternative gearing, settings, pressures and run ups were tried with improved results. A while later Jim thought the trailer had a flat, but all was fine with the tyres. I got under the front to have a look at the suspension while the lads gave it a good shake again all seemed OK. Jim hadn't gone 100mtrs when the draw bar snapped at the body and the trailer tilted rearward like a tipper, lucky it didn't go the other way when I was under it!

The box section was still intact at the bottom so if we could get the trailer level again.......

Four of us stood on the front and couldn't rock it back level so HiLift jacks were needed, once level the welder was bought out again, Rick and Gary cut some flat bar I had bought from home into 4 pieces and they were welded each side of the box section, the welds were pretty rough but with some timber for extra bracing strapped around the "A" frame it surprisingly held to camp at well 22 for the night.

Again the trailer appeared to have been saved and another expensive callout avoided.

Anne did ask me if I thought I could repair the damage, all I could say was "let's give it a go".

Spirits were low that night and a fire was not lit even though we had firewood.

Next morning we made our way to Georgia Bore to top up water tanks, I had a chat to Ted about the wisdom in carrying on the 300klm to Kunawarritji with such a shoddy repair. The facts were discussed and the alternatives given. I didn't expect him to answer immediately saying our fuel was at 23 so we should talk again then. At 23 he decide to leave the CSR and head west to Newman backtracking to Georgia Bore and the Talawanna Track.

It was with sadness they left us there but also a load off our shoulders knowing what was to come. There is no doubt at all the correct decision was made, that trailer would have been frustration for all of us.

Mike and Anne removed from the Cruiser what they needed as they were coming with the rest of us in the two spare seats that were available.

We continued north stopping at each well site, taking plenty of breaks for a smoko or lunch, photo opportunities were presented at nearly every turn, admiring the variety of flowers and types of plants and adsorbing the scenery as well as the history.

Sunday we were just short of well 33 and Kunawarritji where we had seen some odd wheel tracks, these were from bicycles with fat snow tyres. Tom and Scott are a couple of mates riding specially built bicycles along the CSR unsupported. Real nice guys that ended up camping with us the next night. Never heard how they got on, can only guess the finished the trip. They were ahead of schedule and completing 70 plus klm a day!

We stopped at 33 for 2 nights, the local community has washing machines, showers, shop, mechanic (away until Thursday) and fuel etc. Ice creams were well received and Magnums were only $4.50 what a treat. Fresh fruit and vegies were a surprise, they are well stocked. Red, yellow and green capsicum in pristine condition catching my eye. We restocked while there with all the necessities, treats and souvenirs.

We ambled along for the next few days enjoying the easier going once north of the terrible corrugations either side of well 33.

At well 45 I managed to secretly bake a chocolate cake in the camp oven on my Coleman stove, after dinner Jim & Margie put on a desert dessert of steamed puddings, ice-cream and custard for Anne as it was her birthday. Then we bought out the frosted cake, we all knew she had a wonderful birthday. Poor Mike said we made him look bad as he hadn't organised any flowers in a gardeners paradise... Sorry about that old mate.

Just before well 48 is Breaden Pool a natural water hole, we stopped there for lunch and had a visitor from home. Michael and his brother Paul had been up to the Kimberly's and thought they would head home via the north end of the Canning. It was very nice to see them.

It didn't really take us that long to complete the CSR arriving at Wiluna on Saturday afternoon, these places are closed for the weekends so planning is needed if you require fuel etc.

We had the good fortune of travelling the stock route at the same time as a tag-a-long group, Their leader / guide Jeremy Perk is a top bloke and his customers in 10 cars were a pleasure to travel with. The camaraderie and the willingness to assist if needed to repair the trailer were what this sort of travelling is all about, we all felt fortunate to be out there with such a fine group of people.

One thing that we experienced that caused concern was travellers not having sand flags or UHF radios, they were solo travellers. Those with radios knew to look out for them or where they might be so these people probably thought it was fine to travel like that as they didn't run into anyone! It's one thing for them to take such a risk but to put others unknowingly at the same risk borders on criminal.

To be continued

[macca]

Part III Back to civilisation

After the disappointment of no ice-creams at Billiluna we headed to Wolfe Creek for a look at the crater and find a camp. The Tanami was freshly graded and had lots of nasty stones pointing up toward our tyres as was the road out to the crater. I decided to air up as did Rick and Gary. It was surprisingly hot so a quick look was all we had, some did walk to the centre with the kids.

The grader driver told us of a camp which was not so good compared to where we had been but would do. My rear springs had worn a bush out and I tried to swap them out but was too dangerous in those conditions. I deciding to stay on the tar from now on until I got home.

Next morning we all pushed on to Halls Creek, Jim had underestimated his fuel usage and ran out. There was 25 litres on the Tymkin trailer 15 of that sorted him out, with 5 litres going in the Amorok and the 40 as well. Rick had shredded a tyre, only realising when he turned to head back to Jim. That took a bit of fiddling to replace. One of those nasty stones had pierced the tread, letting the air out and it cooked the carcase.

We arrived in Halls Creek where I bought a battery straight away, I was free of the tow rope at last. Then met all in the bakery for a pie, cake and a coffee, ah it was so nice. Did a little shopping then found Ted and Judy at the motel. Great to see them there after all the hassles they had had in the last few days. Accommodation in Newman was $275.00 a night, I would have gone bush and set up my camp if at all possible!!!.

They had to wait 5 days to get the draw bar strengthened, a couple of bits of angle iron welded along the bottom would get them home.

We had a beer in the bar when it opened at midday, bought some light beer (all you can buy takeaway) as we had finished the last can the night before. Then made our way to Purnululu National Park, we paid for 2 nights at the caravan park there but it is not what it's cracked up to be. No shade, no washing machines, no water in the showers or to flush the toilets, camped next to the Helipad and no chance of a refund as we decided to move on in the morning. Not a place to recommend, maybe for self contained caravans but not for campers.

We headed up to Kununurra, this was the same price and so much better. Washing got done, tourist things got seen, real beer got bought, had some nice meals in the local establishments and made great use of the camp kitchen. Very nice.

Wednesday morning we started our 7 day 4200klm journey home.

Had a few cold beers and a nice meal of barra at the Barkly Homestead Roadhouse.
Enjoyed a beer or two at Walkabout Creek Hotel of Crocodile Dundee fame (at McKinlay, named after the man who found Gray's body from the ill fated Bourke and Wills Expedition), a half day in Longreach and another in Moree for a soak in the ponds.

3 Cars stayed in Kununurra, 2 to wait for mechanical repairs and for Mike and Anne to catch a flight to Darwin on Friday arvo.

Dad and I covered 10765 klm in 39 days. Spent $3462.41 on fuel averaging 17.11litre / 100klm.

Over the next few days we all got home safely to our families and friends, Ted had another mishap with the trailer on the Buchanan Road but got that sorted in Dunmarra so they could continue home.

The 200 and the Amorok were outstanding vehicles with no major issues.
The 40 was always in need of some attention, but it has been around a while. It did complete the tracks.
The 75 did well, the flash exhaust has no place in the bush really but all its other issues were easy fixes on the road or when back home.
Aside from the batteries all my issues were my own doing, wires breaking in pumps for example.

All up we had issues with 5 tyres / rims, 4 shocks, 1 shock mount, 1 pre heater failed just before we left and another on the ABH, 1 dirty fuel filter, 2 batteries, 5 mirrors, 4 spot or rear lights falling off, various electrical gremlins, various bushes, 1 clutch and 1 brake slave cylinder, water tanks leaking, 2 air conditioners played up, 2 springs in one trailer and 2 weld repairs in the other. Aside from one car only getting to well 23 we achieved our goals.

Finally thanks to Ted and Judy, Mike and Anne, Scot M, Scott and Mandy, Grace, Will and Sammy, Jim and Margie , Rick and Gary and lastly my Dad Tom for a great trip with good people travelling through a challenging route to see our beautiful country.

Turtle Emu

[macca]

This is the logo we had on our trip shirts

[macca]

Reserved for Photos III

[Stropp]

Sounds like a good and bad start to the trip mate, looking forward to part II

[Sir Roofy]

Thanks macca,looking forward to part 2 and pics as you go

[macca]

Sounds like a good and bad start to the trip mate, looking forward to part II

Thanks Stropp, I certainly tried to talk him out of taking the trailer but he wouldn't listen.

Thanks macca,looking forward to part 2 and pics as you go

Roofy, Part II is coming and pics during the week I hope

[macca]

Part II

Just put it where I had saved a spot for it

[Sir Roofy]

Think we,l be doing this after jane reads this