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16th August 2013, 11:44 PM
#21
Expert
bit late but this is the unit im thinking about not only does the lights but will turn wipers on automatically as well
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/190822894...84.m1438.l2649
Theres only one thing tougher than my truck............. YES DEAR GOING TO DO THE LAWNS NOW
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries,can and do kill people and damage property
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16th August 2013 11:44 PM
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Circuit advertisement
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16th August 2013, 11:59 PM
#22
Originally Posted by
patrol2.8
never too late mate. cheers for the link. i think the wiper thing is a bit of a gimmik, and one more complication that could eff up. i think the day i cant tell if its raining i should probably stop driving.
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17th August 2013, 01:32 AM
#23
Patrol Guru
Originally Posted by
DX grunt
Ask anybody with an ex Telstra vehicle - except me. lol.
Our head lights automatically turn on about 10 seconds after the ignition is turned on and automatically turn off about 10 seconds after the engine is turned off.
This happens only when the light switch is in the 'OFF' position. Spotlights only work when the light switch is in the 'ON' position.
Rossco
My work ute is the same as Rossco described it has a redarc key on lights on module fitted. You can turn the lights on as normal with the ignition off and once the key is in the ON position the lights come after 10 or so seconds. To use high beam you need to turn the headlight switch on first.
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17th August 2013, 06:25 AM
#24
Hardcore
Originally Posted by
Shaun 4x4
No they wont if the lights are still turned to the of position.
As you would cut the wire that would go from the light switch to the origanal relay.
Sorry mate, but im still missing the point as to why a ACC trigger, is more advantageous than a IGN trigger then ?
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17th August 2013, 11:22 PM
#25
Expert
Originally Posted by
04OFF
Sorry mate, but im still missing the point as to why a ACC trigger, is more advantageous than a IGN trigger then ?
So then you don't have to have your lights on all the time when the car is turned on.
I understand your way but people don't always want there lights on during the day.
My way you can still turn them off when the car is on.
Only down side you can't turn them on unless you have the key to acc or you run a bypass switch to be able to turn them on when the key isn't turned to acc.
So I guess it comes down to what the op wants.
But from the original post he asked for auto turning off head lights
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17th August 2013, 11:28 PM
#26
Expert
Originally Posted by
Royce
i have VDO pyro and boost gauges, Mann Hummel catch can, Tognella needle valve and then high pressure dawes valve from america, i figure they are all pretty much the same. and just a run of the mill EGR blanking plate.
im hoping to get a cross country 4x4 intercooler next week as well, coz ive just found out my intercooler atm is leaking. so im going to try and tackle doing that myself aswell, it looks pretty straight forward.
any help or advice or fotos you have to chare would be awesome.
I didn't take any photos at all sorry.
Yer I have the same catch can. Very simple to install. The rest is different tho.
Yer my Intercooler is leaking as well.
Intercooler is very simple to do.
Best advice I can give you is search the hell out of this forum for nads info, I got everything I needed with pictures and everything.
I am yet to do the egr block, Dawes and needle valve as I wanted to monster the boost and egt before to we what they've been doing
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18th August 2013, 03:51 AM
#27
im assuming all pyro and boost gauges are pretty much the same idea, positive, negative to run back lighting and then either air line for boost, or temp probe for pyro running from the engine bay to the gauges. i will deff be researching the sh#t out of nads and trying to get as many pics as possible, as i know very little about auto electricity. so even if someone had my nipple in a twist i couldn't tell them how to wire a gauge to save my poor little nip nip.
i thought about monitoring to see what the differance is but with the issues ive been having and how new the engine is i dont want to waste more time then i already have. im just going to bolt it all in at once.
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18th August 2013, 10:21 AM
#28
Hardcore
Originally Posted by
Shaun 4x4
So then you don't have to have your lights on all the time when the car is turned on.
I understand your way but people don't always want there lights on during the day.
My way you can still turn them off when the car is on.
Only down side you can't turn them on unless you have the key to acc or you run a bypass switch to be able to turn them on when the key isn't turned to acc.So I guess it comes down to what the op wants.
But from the original post he asked for auto turning off head lights
The way is see it tho, (sorry mate, just tring to understand ) regardless of any other switches relays you may be using, the ACC circuit is "powered" while the IGN is on anyway ?, so if you have a overide switch to control the lights while the trigger/control line is powered, it would "overide"just the same powered from ACC or IGN ?
So if you are happy to have a extra "manual" overide switch as well, then surely you would wire the trigger through IGN, and now use the manual overide switch to simply bypass the whole relay "alltogether", this would effectivly return the whole system back to factory while the switch is off. (then you can have no lights in the day etc)
This way you dont have any of the downside's (such as the one you mentioned above)
You could also make it, so every time you re-start the car, it defaults back to "auto headlights" ,so you would have to manually deactivate the function off every time, then at least you cant forget to turn it on.
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18th August 2013, 12:45 PM
#29
Expert
Originally Posted by
Royce
im assuming all pyro and boost gauges are pretty much the same idea, positive, negative to run back lighting and then either air line for boost, or temp probe for pyro running from the engine bay to the gauges. i will deff be researching the sh#t out of nads and trying to get as many pics as possible, as i know very little about auto electricity. so even if someone had my nipple in a twist i couldn't tell them how to wire a gauge to save my poor little nip nip.
i thought about monitoring to see what the differance is but with the issues ive been having and how new the engine is i dont want to waste more time then i already have. im just going to bolt it all in at once.
Gauges are normally mechanical or digital.
Mechanical being that the boost line and egt prob will run directly to the gauge.
Digital being the boost line and egt probe run back to control box which then sends an electrical signal up to gauges. (That's the way ive gone). I used autron gauges and equipment.
Got twin volt and twin amp read out to.
As for you negs they just get grounded to the chassis/metal work of the vehicle and yes you need to find a power supply for the lighting.
I just tapped into the back of the engine warm up switch on the dash as its directly below the the gauges.
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18th August 2013, 12:46 PM
#30
Expert
Royce, what exactly do you want from your head lights?
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