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1st August 2013, 03:43 PM
#1
Advanced
Sub Tank Switch by pass
Yes I know, ther is plenty of threads on this issue, however I can't seem to find anything that shows you how to put a manual switch in to by-pass the subtank controller. If anbyone has done this could you please put up a wiring diagram to show what you did.
I don't know if this can be done, but what I would like to do is keep original pump & sub tank switch in place, somehow wire the switch direct to 12v power from somewhere else other than the sub tank controller, this way the controller is elliminated & stick some black tape over the light on the dash as it's too much work to pull the dash out to remove the globe.
The only issue with this mod is you must remember not to overfill the main tank & don't forget to turn off the pump so it doesn't run dry.
"If you want it done right, you had better do it yourself"
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1st August 2013 03:43 PM
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1st August 2013, 03:57 PM
#2
Moderator
I am not sure I understand why? What are you trying to achieve. ??
A little confused?
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!!
....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy -->
MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by
Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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1st August 2013, 04:21 PM
#3
Patrol Guru
I had to do that in the Simpson when the FULL after market 80l subtank broke its rear mounting brackets, dropped to the track and was held on by the front mounts, it pulled out the wireing loom. Just ran a wire straight from the + of the battery to an alligator clip on a small screw driver which was touched to the pump to pump fuel into the main tank prior to removing the sub tank.
Could have run the wire through a switch with the appropriate connector directly onto the pump, but as asked above, short of my catastrophic issue, why would you want to do it?
Time Marches On .....and on ..... and on
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1st August 2013, 11:27 PM
#4
Patrol Guru
Originally Posted by
Rick111
Yes I know, ther is plenty of threads on this issue, however I can't seem to find anything that shows you how to put a manual switch in to by-pass the subtank controller. If anbyone has done this could you please put up a wiring diagram to show what you did.
I don't know if this can be done, but what I would like to do is keep original pump & sub tank switch in place, somehow wire the switch direct to 12v power from somewhere else other than the sub tank controller, this way the controller is elliminated & stick some black tape over the light on the dash as it's too much work to pull the dash out to remove the globe.
The only issue with this mod is you must remember not to overfill the main tank & don't forget to turn off the pump so it doesn't run dry.
It's only a 5 min or less job to take the globe out.
Evo
Cheers,
Evo
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6th August 2013, 02:16 PM
#5
Advanced
Due to the sub tank light comming on, the fuel will not transfer to the main tank, so what I want to do is use the existing pump & sub tank switch py-pass the sub tank controller & get power from somewhere else to power the pump thus totally eliminating the sub tank controller system. Basically all I need to know is where to get power from & can I use the existing sub tank switch.
"If you want it done right, you had better do it yourself"
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6th August 2013, 02:27 PM
#6
Moderator
Originally Posted by
Rick111
Due to the sub tank light comming on, the fuel will not transfer to the main tank, so what I want to do is use the existing pump & sub tank switch py-pass the sub tank controller & get power from somewhere else to power the pump thus totally eliminating the sub tank controller system. Basically all I need to know is where to get power from & can I use the existing sub tank switch.
have you tested the Switch? assuming that you are eliminating the loom because you think the fault if there? You can take the power from the Cig Lighter. I am a little concerned though that your plan results in all the mechanical parts in the loop (Switch, Pump, Sender, Relay) being retained because they are all ok and the fault is in the wiring?? I'd be way more inclined to be checking for a fault in the mechanical side of the circuit rather than the actual wire.
Sorry not having a go mate, just trying to help with limited info from you.
Are you absolutely certain that there is a fault? Silly question i know. There has been quite a bit written of late on this subject. The light on the dash does not light up in my GUIV when transferring but does on other members? Odd. The transfer is very very very slow. 20 to 30mins to empty the tank. I always start my transfer when the fuel light comes on in the GUIV and it can take 10minutes to pump enough to drop the fuel light off again!
Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 6th August 2013 at 02:30 PM.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!!
....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
Check out my Toy -->
MudRunnerTD's GQ From the Ground Up
Originally Posted by
Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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6th August 2013, 04:18 PM
#7
Patrol God
you can hardly notice my sub light switch day or night, as you
suggested why not tape over half of the light so its not so annoying
if that's your aim, I'm confused a bit too , but that's not hard theses days LOl
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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9th January 2014, 02:12 PM
#8
Expert
I too wish to rewire this circuit, I am now having the same issue as numerous people have brought up about the Sub tank light remaining on all of the time. I have done the "remove power from battery" numerous times in my trip from Wodonga to Darwin to try and utilise both tanks but it's getting a bit ridicules doing this on almost a daily basis. Has anyone actually solved this problem yet, reading all of the other threads on this topic has not given any info other then cleaning terminals, disconnecting the battery or fitting an additional earth strap. What is the purpose of the sub tank controller behind the radio, if the tank has to be manually transferred anyway, why would it need a controller apart from pumping some fuel between tanks on start up, can this be removed from the circuit to provide a direct link to the transfer pump whilst using the existing switch.
Has anyone actually done this modification or even come close to solving this issue.
6.5 Chevy, roof rack, uhf, Spotties, dual batteries, ARB Bullbar, 12, 000lb winch, (unfortunately not Warn) Safari snorkel, Dieselgas conversion, 2in lift, engine watchdog fitted, boost/EGT guages, front elokka fitted, rear power supply mods, turbo timer, dual wheel carrier rear bar.
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9th January 2014, 10:04 PM
#9
I am he, fear me
The controller serves a few purposes, the main two being...
It won't let you overfill the main tank if there is more fuel in the sub than space in the main.
and
It tests that the pump will actually work when you select it.
No major drama in bypassing it all with a switch to 12 volts.
However the only way to check if the pump actually transfers is to monitor the sub gauge is dropping or pop the cap off the main filler and see if the fuel is flowing and you also need to make sure you have enough tankage to accept the sub tank fuel.
Dolphins are so smart that within a few weeks of captivity, they can train people to stand on the very edge of the pool and throw them fish.
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9th January 2014, 10:24 PM
#10
Expert
There is no problem with the pump, when it is reset after the battery is disconnected, it works as it is supposed to. I generally only transferred sub tank fuel to main at half empty on the main so there would be enough room based on my existing habits. Ideally I would like to leave it all as is if, someone could give a definitive answer on what causes the light to stay on in the first place. Maybe I might dedicate some real time to the issue and attempt to sort it out.
6.5 Chevy, roof rack, uhf, Spotties, dual batteries, ARB Bullbar, 12, 000lb winch, (unfortunately not Warn) Safari snorkel, Dieselgas conversion, 2in lift, engine watchdog fitted, boost/EGT guages, front elokka fitted, rear power supply mods, turbo timer, dual wheel carrier rear bar.
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