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they are a handy item as at camp you can move your light around or down by the river etc.
then just plug in and charge ready for next camp, I top my one up via a 80 watt solar panel.
My battery is only small and only for led floodlights. If its brittle plastic wrap some grey duct tape around it
a few times.
Last edited by threedogs; 28th July 2013 at 08:14 AM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
I know all the reasons to use a deep cycle on one of these. But the thing is I have a good N120zz 790cca ( I think those numbers are right) so am thinking of using until buggered.
So I'm asking is anyone running a fridge not via solar or anything from a crank battery. And how long did it work. Mine is a 40 Engel.
Just went to BCF and bought the battery box with investor model.
How long is a piece of string. It won't last as long as a deep cycle used the same way, but will last longer if not allowed to be used until 'flat'. If using it in that way it is the best choice, because such use will prematurely kill any battery regardless of whether it is a crank or deep cycle type, & thus better to use one that is cheaper, or in this case that you already have.
If you charge it with a smart charger before use to get it 100 % charged (it will gas & bubble) it will run your fridge for longer than if charged on a 'non smart' charger. If running it low whilst away put it on charge as soon as possible when you get back home ( & top up the fluid with distilled water if it needs it, ensuring the plates are covered). Doing this could make the difference between lasting for a few trips & perhaps lasting another year or more. Sitting uncharged for any length of time is another killer.
At the other end of the scale, a good deep cycle battery looked after well can last 8 to 10 years. The main thing to remember is that each time the battery is taken below about 50% capacity (approx 12.3v or 12.4v after having stood with no load for 20 or 30 minutes) it is significantly shortening it's working life.
Cuppa
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare) A Nomadic Life (Blog)
@ rafa if you can find this style battery box all the better, all I've done is fit extra merit and Anderson plugs to it [fused].
has served me well for many years, excepts a 100ah battery, but ATM it only has a deep cycle motorbike size 18 ah job.
as its only used for camp led lights
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Ok so I go to BCF and looked for the cheap ARC battery box. There is the new ARC one identical to Engel for $399. Had to do it. My NN120 fits perfectly I know it deep cycle but gunna see how it goes.
I'm also thinking of mounting a solar panel on roof rack flat. As the ARC battery box has terminals to feed power in.
Lots to think about there. Like will the panel hold up on tough gravel roads week on week out.
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