GU patrol gearbox rear tailshaft seal. The seal where the back tailshaft comes out
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GU patrol gearbox rear tailshaft seal. The seal where the back tailshaft comes out
G'day Guys,
Well I had my gearbox serviced and reductions gears put in. A week later my gearbox was leaking from the rear tail shaft seal! I took it back to the so called best in the business place and they did it again.. That was Friday and guess what its leaking again!! Grrrrrrr.. So my question is, is this normal? Is it a hard seal to fit? Can I do it in my garage at home? He did say that they used a single lip seal the first time as they didn't have a double available (already sounds dodgie) but this time they claim to have used a double lip seal. Now I dont know whether to take it back to them! Its also nearly a 4 hour round trip to them.. Only went there as I was advised they are the best!!
Cheers Lewy
GU ST-L 4.2 turbo diesel Because reliability counts!!!!!
Front Elocker and a Heep more cool stuff :-)
ring them and tell them about the seal and how dissapointed you are and what distance you have to travell again they might work something out for you
just saw this in the vendors section an online store http://www.atocauto.com.au/products.asp?cat=71
Last edited by my third 256; 21st July 2013 at 10:20 AM.
Yes was just looking on his page :-) The seal I need is the one behind the handbrake. Its $30 I will end up calling them but I might just loos my temper LOL 1st time no worries but to not get it right the 2nd time is just not good enough imo! I'm pretty good with tools and dont mined doing it my self as I do do most things myself (at least I no I do things carefully and I tend to get it right)... I'm just wondering if its easy to pop the old (new) one out and tap a new one in?
Cheers Guys
Lewy
GU ST-L 4.2 turbo diesel Because reliability counts!!!!!
Front Elocker and a Heep more cool stuff :-)
If its the same as most others I've seen it should be fairly easy to tap out with a screwdriver and a hammer. Getting a new one in it is important to get it in flat, an installing tool (anything round approx the same size as the seal) would be the best way. Also need to make sure your tailshaft doesn't have a groove in it causing the leak.
Before you do it though, have you given the area a good clean up and made sure it is leaking? Not just residue???
Ill get under the Troll today and have a good look at it and I might pull the tail out and make sure its still leaking.. I sure hope its not but it does look to be :-(.. If it is Ill do it my self no way I'm letting these blokes have a 3rd crack at it!!
Last edited by Lewy; 21st July 2013 at 05:56 PM.
GU ST-L 4.2 turbo diesel Because reliability counts!!!!!
Front Elocker and a Heep more cool stuff :-)
Well it wasn't leaking when I took it in! Ill be taking it back next week and they better get it bloody right this time! I don't want to do it myself just in case they did stuff something up and I void the warranty. So will let you all no next weekend how it all goes!
Cheers every one for your help
Lewy
GU ST-L 4.2 turbo diesel Because reliability counts!!!!!
Front Elocker and a Heep more cool stuff :-)
Do you have the handbrake drum on the TC or does it work from the rear wheels?
The seal in the pictures is kind of special and I recommend you get it from Nissan. If you have the drum as in the picture, you can follow the steps to remove.
1. NB: Chock the front wheels at the back as well as the front. Undo the 4 rear propshaft bolts at the TC and pull the shaft to one side out of the way. If you dont have space undo the 4 bolts on the diff as well and remove the prop shaft completely. NOTE do not separate the two shaft sections unless you mark both sections and re assemble with the alignment marks you made. The shaft is balanced as it is and altering the alignment will put it out of balance after which you will have to replace more than a seal.
2. Now you will see the propshaft flange and the F...nut holding it to the TC main output shaft. You need a power bar and a lot of power and some penetrating oil spray. Also at this point you can remove the brake drum if you want to inspect the extend of the leak.
3. REPLACE the drum, shim up two opposite flange bolts for the thickness of what the shaft uni joint flange would take upand lock it back down with two nuts.
4. Stick the transfer in 4L 1st gear and chock the front wheels at the back as well as the front of the wheel, I'm just saying it again to prevent you ending up with your wheel pattern across you body.
5. Pull up as much as you can on the handbrake. Now start sweating it out in an anti clock direction on that F nut center of flange. Have a beer after that and recollect yourself. If it came off easily you have an excuse to swear out loud. Both ways you gonna swear anyway.
6. Once that nut is loose you can proceed with taking the drum off, remember to release the handbrake again to avoid unnecessary swearing. After that you can carefully remove the flange, you may need a puller to do that. Avoid hammering away or wedging. A puller! If you dont have a puller you can do the following. a) Turn the F.Nut back on about two full turns. The main shaft head will be visible and recessed now. Stick a 13 size socket in the recessed area to align with the shaft. Now replace the one end of the propshaft as per normal installation. You have a socket in between the flange and the shaft uni now. Tightening two opposite nuts back on. This works like a puller and the flange will come of pretty much enough that you can pull it further off by hand after removing the prop shaft again.
7. With the flange of you can clearly see the condition of the seal.
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