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Thread: DIY Rear wheel bearings & seals

  1. #21
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    D y i wheel rear bearings & seals

    Now this is the hard part. If you have acess to a press use it it mite cost you a six pack at the local mechanic to use his as i said im out on my property & dont even have a dunny let alone a press. Ive set up the axle on timbers to support it via the bearing housing then i heated the housing for about 15-20 mins then using a block of timber & a copper hammer i held the timber on the axle end & hit it a couple of times & the axle slide out of the bearings. Im doing all of this on my own so it can be a bit hard to do it would be o lt easier with 2 ppl
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  4. #22
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    D y i wheel rear bearings & seals

    When it has come apart remove the old bearings & support the housing on timber so the outer bearing shell can be knocked out. Using one of the old bearings place it in the top of the housing & heat the housing then using a piece of timber hit the bearing down which will push the outer shell out
    If the inner race has stayed on the axle very carfully grind a flat onto the race & then give it a sharp hit with a hammer & chisel on the flat to loosen it
    DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE IT USING THE CHISEL BETWEEN THE RACE BEARING SPACER AS SHOWN IN THE PIC AS IT WILL DAMAGE THE SPACER i use a copper drift to tap off the race
    No matter what the myth busters say hitting a hammer against another case hardened piece of steel does chip & becomes a bullet ive had it happen to me & also have seen it happen to a work colleage with very bad results
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    D y i wheel rear bearings & seals

    Remove the tin plate that is held on via the axle studs & clean & inspect all the seal faces if you can catch your finger nail in a groove worn by a seal you will need a SPEEDY SLEEVE to repair it (google SPEEDY SLEEVE to see what it is used for) Fit the plate back loosly & clean up all the bearing carrier
    With the new bearings i myself dont think they come with enough grease packed into them so i always repack them with high temp bearing grease
    I also take the new outer bearing race & put it back in the box by itself & put it into the freezer while im repacking the bearings & cleaning all the parts
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    Great shots and a good write up
    Joe
    2010-DX Patrol Dual Cab Chassis, Front LOKKA, 3500kg GVM, 4.8 front brakes! (now stops like it should!), 4.625 Diffs (now drives like it should) 35"Mud tires, 3"exhaust, Rear air bags

  9. #25
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    Hay Joe. Great write up. Just goes to show what can be achieved with a little hands on approach with a little thought and some basic tools..

    Top advise on the removal of a tight inner race to..
    At work we have a few no spark areas, and on a break down you need a why to remove a bearing its a big chisel and a bigger hammer.. they shatter..
    So a little tap at a time is advised.. you only want to 'stretch' the ring enough to free it..

    Keep up the write up mate. Top job so far..

    Kallen Westbrook
    Owner of
    Westy's Accessories
    Cheers
    Kallen Westbrook

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    D y i wheel rear bearings & seals

    When every thing is cleaned sit the bearing housing on a block of wood with the side that the seal goes into face down. What i do now is heat the housing for 10-15 mins & take the outer race from the freezer all going to plan with the housing hot & the outer race cold it should just drop straight into the housing all the way to the seat if it doesnt just give it a gentle tap on the outside edge with a brass drift (DONT USE A HARDENED PIN PUNCH OR CHISEL) untill it sits on the seat
    Now this part is very important with the housing still sitting on the timber go back to the fridge & grab a rum & let the bearing housing cool enuff to handle
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    D y i wheel rear bearings & seals

    Turn the bearing housing over & drop in one of the greased tapered bearing take the housing seal & gently tap it into position if you dont have a socket or tube the same diameter as the steel of the seal us a copper drift & very gently tap the seal in by tapping opersite sides of the seal until it is all the way in. Apply a heap of grease arond the seal & the face that comes in contact with the back of the axle flange that was cleaned earlier. Stand the axle on the studs & make sure the tin plate that is held on via the studs is in position but loose. Slide the bearing housing over the axle( seal down ) until it stops against the shoulder that the bearing is pressed over. Slide the other greased tapered bearing over the axle until it is sitting in the bearing cone. I like to pack some more grease into the bearings at this stage then cover the bearing with a rag for the next step
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    D y i wheel rear bearings & seals

    If you have acess to a press it makes it easier at this point to fit the bearings in the past i have put the bare axle in a cool room to help shrink it i have also used my hi lift jack with a long pipe & plate & pressed the bearings on what ive done this time is after covering the bearings. I use an old socket that has had the top cut off a slide it over the axle down till it rests on the inner bearing cone i then took a length of steel pipe & use it as a slide hammer & bang it against the old socket as the seal on the bearing housing gets closer to axle flange face i keep rotating the housing so the seal doesnot get caught on the loose tin plate & so as it seals on the flange i can see between the plate that has been left loose you can make sure that it is seated properly keep tapping the bearings down & when it is all the way down you will hear a different tone & feel that it has gone all the way
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    D y i wheel rear bearings & seals

    Remove the rag & make sure everthing is clean fitting a new lock wasker is best but if you dont have a new one clean up the old one & put it into position clean up the nut & screw it down then lay the axle down & slide the long socket spanner on & tension the nut & make sure the bearing housing turns freely it will be a bit tight as its all new bend the lock tab over & stand the axle back up & heat up the A B S gear & slide it all the way down if it doesnt go all the way just GENTLY tap it with the brass drift it should not need to much to get it home
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    D y i wheel rear bearings & seals

    Make sure that all of the axle assembly is clean including the splines. Remove the the old seal in the axle housing i use an old slide hammer that i made up but you can get away with a screw driver BUT BECAREFULL NOT TO DAMAGE THE SEAL HOUSING if you do it will need to be cleaned up with a fine stone on a drill to make sure that there are no rough edges. Find a socket the same size as the seal & put grease over the end of it so the seal with stick to it & then line it up with the housing & gently tap it in. Try to tap it in evenly then check to make sure that it is all the way in & even all round if it isnt gently tap it flush with a brass drift but try to avoid going down this road. Make sure the outer oring is in good condition ideally it should also be replaced but ive never seen a bearing/seal kit come with everything thats required
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