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28th December 2010, 01:15 PM
#11
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28th December 2010 01:15 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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28th December 2010, 06:51 PM
#12
Beginner
Great work Tony .. Should be put up as a sticky for future reference
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28th December 2010, 08:33 PM
#13
Moderator
Hey Tony great job on the pictorial and write up mate, nice work..
To add to this though it should be pointed out that "replacing" the CV in this pictorial is assuming that whoever is doing this has a second hand one still connected to the axle and are just doing a swap over.
If they are buying another CV then they will need to Press off and press on the new one onto the axle. which would be the next step. I wouldn't mind knowing how to do that to to be honest if you can add those pics, otherwise i would take the CV / Axle assembly somewhere for the CV swap..
Lastly.
Word of warning to those undertaking this, when refitting the new CV & Axle be very careful to limit the weight placed on the axle seal when installing the axle otherwise it will leak like a sieve. even a new axle seal will leak if treated badly. If doing the long side (the left) take extra care as the longer axle will get heavy installing it. Dont just "slide em in".
Good luck.
Well done Tony.
Last edited by MudRunnerTD; 28th December 2010 at 08:35 PM.
Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!!
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Originally Posted by
Rogue Dung Beetle
Wish it was Nissan though, Toyotas just can't keep up with the Pootrol pace.
The only good thing about an 80 series is..... the front end?? Wrong!!, the Engine?? Wrong!! the Full Time 4WD system?? Wrong!! Its the NissanPatrol.com.au stubby holder fitted over the transfer lever.
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people and damage property.
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28th December 2010, 08:49 PM
#14
Thanks MR.
I don't know about pressing the CV off the axle, if its anything like a front wheel drive CV (I have not tried it with a 4WD front CV) then it will be a case of securely holding the axle shaft in a vice, and using a brass drift and a hammer to knock the CV off the axle. On front wheel drives there is a spring clip on the end of the axle spline that locates in a recess in the CV joint spline, I think 4WD CV's would be the same.
You are correct about being very careful with the axle seals. It's good practice to replace the inner axle seals when ever you remove a CV, unless you like to play hard and break CV's on a regular basis! The inner axle seal can be seen still in the housing in the photo below. I will go into more detail regarding replacing these seals when I get new seals to install.
Tony
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mudnut (31st October 2012)
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8th March 2011, 10:58 AM
#15
Very informative, thanks guys
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3rd April 2011, 02:35 AM
#16
Tony,
I'm looking at replacing my rear rotors on a 98 4.5ltr GU. Do I basically do the steps up to step 7 and the just take the rotor apart. Any help would be appreciated. Have just downloaded the Factory Manual and will have a read tomorrow.
Thanks
TOOR
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3rd April 2011, 06:16 AM
#17
Originally Posted by
Ruby
Tony,
I'm looking at replacing my rear rotors on a 98 4.5ltr GU. Do I basically do the steps up to step 7 and the just take the rotor apart. Any help would be appreciated. Have just downloaded the Factory Manual and will have a read tomorrow.
Thanks
TOOR
No, rear rotors are much easier.
Remove the wheels (obviously!) remove the brake calliper bracket with calliper still attached then remove the rotor. Easy.
Tony
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3rd April 2011, 04:09 PM
#18
Thanks Tony,
I'll ring around and get some prices for Rotors tomorrow
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5th April 2011, 10:49 PM
#19
Thanks Tony, been getting a lot of good stuff from your write ups.
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5th April 2011, 11:13 PM
#20
Glad I could help you mate.
Tony
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