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Thread: Power supply for UHF.

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Power supply for UHF.

    I'm fitting a cb radio to my GU, in the dash underneath the radio. Is there a best place to connect it's power leads to?

    Cuppa
    Last edited by Cuppa; 15th May 2013 at 05:48 PM. Reason: Got rid of the Motorculture sig line, they can do their own advertising without my assistance.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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    Patrol God
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    The battery mate...!!!!!

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    Moderator MudRunnerTD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie View Post
    The battery mate...!!!!!
    what he said.

    nothing worse than having to put the keys in the ignition to use your UHF, or leaving the ignition on when in camp just so you can monitor the radio.
    Its a Nissan! =====> Its a Keeper!! ....... Got a TD42 in it BONUS!! ....... I'm a lucky bugger! I've got 2 of em!
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    The master farter
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bloodyaussie View Post
    The battery mate...!!!!!
    No to a couple of bits of carpet and rub them together to create your own power! Just to the Aux battery if you wish cups. Even the main battery, it ain't gonna drain either in a hurry.

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    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    Wire it hot{direct} to one of your Spare AUX batteries, Fuse at battery end on pos,
    Can then be left on and used as a home base if for some reason you go for a wander away from car taking a handheld
    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Having spent a fair bit of stuffing around to get the antenna co-ax lead fom the bullbar to the radio I was kinda hoping not to have to find a spot on the drivers side to go through the fire wall. It's pretty crowded under the bonnet on the battery side & the positive terminal on the battery is also pretty loaded up. My thinking was that being a 5w unit it should only draw less than half an amp (although I'm not certain if the 5w refers to output and that it may actually draw more than that - fuse is 3a). I would have thought there would be a suitable spot to connect the positive to inside the cab? Maybe the fuse block - is that live without ignition on?

    The aux batteries are all in the pod, so that ain't gonna happen.

    Cuppa
    Last edited by Cuppa; 15th May 2013 at 06:10 PM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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    I use to have a ciggy plug in my Rodeo as I wanted to be able to just pull it ou when I wanted to and that was in there for years!!!!

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    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    Is there a large rubber flange thingy on the rear of cabin???
    Other than that in front of passenger in footwell
    Get the multi meter out and find a live wire with ignit off and on depending how
    you want to have it.
    I prefer not wired to ignition As all I want that battery to do is start motor.
    You know what I mean, plus no biggy to turn on /off manually,
    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cuppa View Post
    Having spent a fair bit of stuffing around to get the antenna co-ax lead fom the bullbar to the radio I was kinda hoping not to have to find a spot on the drivers side to go through the fire wall. It's pretty crowded under the bonnet on the battery side & the positive terminal on the battery is also pretty loaded up. My thinking was that being a 5w unit it should only draw less than half an amp (although I'm not certain if the 5w refers to output and that it may actually draw more than that - fuse is 3a). I would have thought there would be a suitable spot to connect the positive to inside the cab? Maybe the fuse block - is that live without ignition on?

    The aux batteries are all in the pod, so that ain't gonna happen.

    Cuppa
    The 5W refers to the RF power output not the power consumption, the current draw is probably around 2A.
    I always think it is best to go to the battery to reduce voltage drop as that will reduce power output.
    Going to the battery also reduces the chances of getting interference from something else in the car.

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    Patrol Freak trekster's Avatar
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    I have mine hard wired, makes it easier to forget to turn it off

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