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, will look for a latch that magnetic like you guys are talking about then start on it.
Bunnings is your friend, see Mudski's early posts.
I used the same 'push to open' one as him, but added a couple of small thin neodymium magnets (eBay) to the latch plate on the door, as I found the magnet not quite strong enough & the door sometimes opened on our corrugated road. It helped that I had mounted the latch so it was adjustable, allowed me to accommodate the extra thickness of the neodymiums without pushing the door out. Mudski may not have that problem as he mounted his latch plate on the door differently to me.
Last edited by Cuppa; 2nd January 2014 at 10:36 AM.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare) A Nomadic Life (Blog)
Glad I caught you Been sitting here thinking about the self taper, I actually think you could fit a small nut and m3 screw, or similar.
Yep, that'd work too, although I'm not sure that there would be any extra benefit, & getting in behind the dash to hold the nut might be a pain when fitting or removing the door. When I fitted the self tappers I was aware of the possibility of the hole enlarging over time (although I think this is unlikely given the amount of opening & shutting it will get), & considered that if this ever happened I would then change to a nut & bolt arrangement.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare) A Nomadic Life (Blog)
Yeah thinking the same wear will be minimum, but knowing my mate he'll want to put a metal sleeve in it.lol Shouldn't laugh but he will
He's very fussy my mate Phil is, Better for me he is. Been looking at the hole and think a slightly spring loaded box is possible,
2 stage and secured to that bar,
Not a great deal of room but will be handy for sure no matter how big the pocket is.
Yeah more the merrier, I'm getting the air cut off grinder out to shape the cavity a bit better,
OK need suggestions on what to fit in the lid, 7" screen isn't going to work so its either an in dash compass and a clock.
open to any ideas
Last edited by threedogs; 2nd January 2014 at 01:41 PM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
To those doing this to this stage is no problem, to those who have done this to keep the steel running along the bottom that supports OE glove box catch
I've drilled and riveted it from the bottom on each of the bottom corners. Now I have a square entrance I can make my box and spring load it slightly
so it will fit snug. Happy so far pretty confident about the hinge. Can't see any point making it any bigger as there is not that much room, As Mudski suggested I will be fitting a lip to the front.
pretty sure I'll fibreglass the insert.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
Ok mocked up a cardboard box, and my theory was right I should be able to fit it from the front and secure it via two screws markd in picture.
Not sure if it needs a lid , will see later on, .Getting there, small lip on the front it will slope down a bit as there is about 25mm to play with
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
How were the nerves just when you were to do your first cut? I had to take some meds and wash it down with a beer! Making the box out of cardboard first is what did also. Then atleast you get a good idea on how its going to turn out. Then when your happy, simply cut the timber sides using the cardboard sections as templates.
Just remember NOT to rush it. Build it like you play chess. Think about every move and what effect it will have on the outcome, and it will turn out good.
I used a 5" grinder as yes was shetting myself , mainly if I over cut, but I under cut then cleaned up with
my B/D power file. Off to bunnings tomorrow for bits and pieces.. hopefully finished by the end of next week
I'm in no hurry
@ Mudski where do you get thay magic lock you talked of?? lol
Last edited by threedogs; 4th January 2014 at 01:49 PM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there