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31st December 2013, 02:04 PM
#91
Patrol God
Ok I've started to remove that dash pad , you'll need to pull the felt backing away to expose 6 screws, after you remove the glovebox itself
there is also an electrical box that you need to remove to access one of the screws RHS
. A minimax 1/4 drive set is ideal as is a stubbie rachett screwdriver. All out ready to cut.
Ok Mudski where you have a bracket my model had junction boxes on it.
Going to cut now, were they your final measurements.
@ cuppa I've taken a pic of your hole {lol} will use as a guide,
here goes
Last edited by threedogs; 31st December 2013 at 03:17 PM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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31st December 2013 02:04 PM
# ADS
Circuit advertisement
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31st December 2013, 03:23 PM
#92
Patrol God
Hole all cut no dramas just used a dremel syle tool with vibrating straight cutter.
Think I'll notch that piece of steel so hinges have some thing with meat to work off.
Will make up the box insert tomorrow. as big as possible, with USB power[Constant}
and possible a merit, and an LED red/white courtesy light, only as have one lying around
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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31st December 2013, 09:05 PM
#93
Travelling Podologist
Good to know you have your own hole now TD. Which piece of steel are you planning to notch? the piece along the bottom of your hole? Are you planning to hinge the door along the bottom? If so I’m not sure how you would manage to keep your box hidden.
Now that you’ve broken your no cut/no drill rule just imagine what the new year might bring!
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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1st January 2014, 12:19 PM
#94
Patrol God
Yeah no stopping be now. I noticed you need that steel plate thingy as it houses the lock bracket for the OE glovebox.
can't see how the hinges will work yet,, will see if any pics.
Your first pic on post #33 is where I'm at, You don't need all that material at the top but makes no difference as its only to stop lid.
The box itself will be easy as I can handball that to my mate, There are no pictures of what and where the hinges go.
EG are they piano or just small cabinet hinges.
Yeah need pics of the hinges and where you have them, can you see them with the door open??
Last edited by threedogs; 1st January 2014 at 01:36 PM.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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1st January 2014, 09:00 PM
#95
Not sure how cuppa hinged his but I didnt use piano hinges at all. Mines like a pin that goes through the lip of the lid and into a drilled hole in the dash.
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1st January 2014, 09:08 PM
#96
Travelling Podologist
Similar to Mudski but simplified, I just used self tappers. Hole in door is large enough for door to pivot without turning the self tappers, but hole in dash holds self tappers tight. Post #60 shows hole location in dash, & self tappers in finished ‘door’. I’ve seen some done with hinges along the bottom & they don’t look good, cant make the glovebox hidden.
I found determining the position for the hinge holes the single biggest challenge of the whole job, but the outcome works well.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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2nd January 2014, 08:18 AM
#97
Patrol God
Got it, might show my sheetie mate he may have an idea after all this way his job for 40 yrs,
But I like the self taper theory KIS, noticed you ground a bit off the bottom of the lid, I take it this helps it hinge up.
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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2nd January 2014, 08:49 AM
#98
Travelling Podologist
Originally Posted by
threedogs
noticed you ground a bit off the bottom of the lid, I take it this helps it hinge up.
Yes, so did Mudski I think. I left the lid until last. The trimming off the bottom of the lid was to accommodate the thickness of the carpet so that the lid still sits in place & looks 'stock'. Without the trimming it would sit out a bit & be less 'hidden'. Fwiw my advice would be to leave the lid until last, that way you can work out precisely where it is to sit & thus where your pivot holes need to be. There is not a lot of material to play with & every millimetre makes a difference. This based on what I did of course, you might find better alternatives.
2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, heaps of easy access storage, 240v, 3” Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2” lift, 3900kg GVM upgrade, second glovebox, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697's (now Toyo RT's), Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, Icom 450 CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 180 litre fuel in two tanks (approx 1200km range) 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
A Nomadic Life (Blog)
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The Following User Says Thank You to Cuppa For This Useful Post:
threedogs (2nd January 2014)
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2nd January 2014, 08:55 AM
#99
Patrol God
Glad I caught you Been sitting here thinking about the self taper, I actually think you could fit a small nut and m3 screw, or similar.
Not sure how big a box I'll make as its mainly to house my mates wallet ,phone and smokes when we go away. I've spoken
to him and looks like we MIGHT fibreglass it. Trouble is all shops are shut till 6th of Jan
04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there
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2nd January 2014, 09:51 AM
#100
Enjoying the trips
This could be a new year mod, will look for a latch that magnetic like you guys are talking about then start on it.
A bloke in our 4WD clubs Dad is a sheety and is making him a box, so far he has 3 orders from our clubbies!
Thanks for the DIY all of you, should make the task a whole lot easier.
Cheers
Macca
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