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Thread: GU Second glove box mod DIY!!!

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    GU Second glove box mod DIY!!!

    Ok after many contemplations on whether to do it or not as for many its a biggish task and if you stuff it up it will turn to poo!
    So here it is ladies and gents! Your step by step guide with sizing, (in the pictures albeit) but you will get the drift and can change things to suit.
    Also please excuse the quality of some pictures. I took everything with my phone so sometimes the camera didn't focus right, or where I wanted it to...
    Also if you DO have a passenger side front air bag, you can't do this mod.
    Parts you will require...

    • 6mm MDF, a 600mm square sheet will do.
    • Nails. I used Florentine Bronze wall panels as they have the rough edge on them so they don't slip out. (See pic)



    • Wire trace for the extension straps


    • The latch and hinges. I used a magnetic catch used for a t.v cabinet( push to release style) This also came with hinges which I modified and used. Cost under $10 from Bunnings (See pic)
    • I then bought another magnetic catch and used the part that would on on the door as it had another magnet in it. It was stronger than just having a metal plate there to catch onto. (See above pic)
    • Marine Carpet. Use colour of your choice. I just went to Bunnings and it came in 2m lenghts, so I got 500mm x 2000mm piece for under $20.
    • Glue for the carpet. I used Gorilla Grip.
    • Small screws for attaching the wire straps.

    Tools you will require

    • Jigsaw
    • Cordless drill
    • Glue gun and plenty of glue sticks
    • Hammer
    • Measuring implement
    • Dremel ( Not a necessity but bloody handy)
    • Super Glue, Loctite 406 I used.

    Consumables you will require

    • Beer or bevo of your choice
    • Patience

    Other advise you will require

    • Take you time at it and it will work out great
    • REMEMBER! Measure Twice and cut once!
    • Imagine how you want it to look and envisage what you will do to make it look professional. And don't forget what you envisaged through the whole process. As for me anyway, if I do forget, the job won't turn out and look the way I want it too.

    So off we go...

    1.
    First was to remove the dummy air bag lid. to do this you need to remove the lower glove box and access the eight ( I think it is ) screws that secure the dummy lid. Once removed you will see the part of the dash you need to cut.
    The size I went for is 380mm wide by 120mm high. This left around 50mm or so spacing around the opening. This is totally up to you. But I though of keeping a lip there so when I carpet it I can fold the carpet outwards and glue it to the lip. I envisaged this
    Draw out the area you want to cut, then drill a few starter holes and I used a hacksaw blade and cut it out. Then cleaned up the cut with a blade.
    Once the cut piece is removed you will see the steel bar or brace there. This is what you will attach the box to. On the right side you will see a small metal bracket. Mine had nothing attached to it so I simply bent it up and back out of the way.


    2.
    Next I just made a cardboard template just to see how it was to fit and what I wanted. Most of these I have seen on the net didn't have a top to the box, some had deep sections in the base of the box, some had shelves, some even had power sockets in there. It all up to you.
    Me. I went plain Jane. I might make another box down the track and add extra bits here and there.


    3.
    Making the box. This is where the nerves kicked in as I'm no chippie and my cuts are rough at best.
    See the below pics of the box I made, it has sizes written on there, but remember! I'm no chippie. Use these sizes as a guide only.
    TOP, see the angled edge? This goes with the bend of the steel pipe...

    [B]BOTTOM



    I first cut the base to the total width of the whole. Then made the sides and back to the height of the hole. Then the lid.
    I WAS going to put the sides on top of the base but decided to put the sides, on the side of the base, for strength reasons. Top didn't matter. BUT, I then realised my base would be too wide for the whole now, with the two sides attached, by 12mm. So I trimmed the base, back and top to suit.
    I used packing tape to hold it together temporarily, then got the glue gun out, nails out and went for it.
    NOTE : Pre drill the MDF as it's 6mm and the nails will split the wood when you hammer the first nail in.
    Use plenty of glue. The more the merrier. Don't be scared with this part.

    4.
    Once it was done it was time to see how it fit in the hole. A few minor adjustments to the whole and it was really snug. Its best to have the whole a little smaller so you can then make minor adjustments as if its too lose it won't fit right and piss you off.
    Mine was a bit of a struggle to get it in but it didn't want to come out which is good.
    I then used a drill and drill two holes through the back plate of the box and into the steel bar. Then used some flat head self tapping screws to attach the box to the bar.
    5.
    Once it was secure I got the Dremel out and cut the edges of the box to the contour of the dash. I didn't get too close to the contour as I want to sand it back for the final shaping




    6.
    Once cut I removed the box and sanded it up a bit


    7.
    I put it back in, and made sure I was satisfied with it, then removed it again ready for the carpet.
    I cut the carpet in Six sections.

    1. Base
    2. Back
    3. Top
    4. Left side
    5. Right side
    6. Right, angled side

    The base, back and sides is best to make them too long as after you have glued in it you can trim it off then. Just incase...
    I used the Gorilla Grip glue and the glue gun for the edges so it would peel. Well It shouldn't...
    Glued it up, stuffed it with newspaper and left it over night to dry.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by mudski; 27th July 2016 at 04:52 PM.

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  4. #2
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    8.
    Once dry refit the box and screw it back in. I used those screw caps to cover the screw heads to make it look more professional.
    I then used my glue gun to fold and glue the top and bottom carpeted edges down. The sides I just trimmed right off flush as I was going to simply cut the edge pieces to suit and glue them on.

    Good tip
    . When you have angle cuts on the marine carpet you see a faint lighter edge on the carpet. Just run a black marker pen over that edge and it disappears. If your using dark carpet that is...
    fitting 2.1 (Medium).jpg
    9.
    Now the box is done its time for the real headache. The lid! This is hard to explain so bear with me on this...
    I first decide to work out how to hinge it. I had seen some people use piano hinge but I wanted it to look like it was factory fitted ( well hope for it).
    So out of the latch kit I bought, (the t.v cabinet one) it also came with two metal hinges. I didn't get a good pic of these but it was a U shaped plate with a 8mm or so pin off one end. Measure it all up and the pin was just long enough to go through the side of the lid and into the dash board. The dummy lid is a tight fit so I was confident.
    But, I did shave off about 1mm of the inside lip of the lid where the hinge was to sit just to make the pin a that little longer.
    hinge left (Medium).jpg

    hinge right (Medium).jpg

    Once I was happy and before I secured the hinge, I proceeded to trim down the hinges to make them sit flush with the edge of the lid.
    I trimmed the bottom side of the hinge too so it would sit lower in the curve of the lid as I wanted the pin to be centre of the lip, so when I do drill the hole for the pin I don't damage the plastic because the edge of it is too thin.
    Place the hinge in the lid and mark where you will drill the whole. Take a deep breath and drill. Then mark on the outside of the lid where the whole is. This will be your marker for when you drill the dash.
    Once drilled only secure one hinge in. So you can remove the lid when you want whilst doing all this. When your happy! Before you finish it all, then secure it in.
    I used Hot glue for the under side of the hinge, to the lid and then the 406 on the side of the hinge, in between the lid of the lid and the hinge. It ain't going anywhere with 406 holding it in.
    I know this sounds like mumbo jumbo, I'm trying here. But its easier to think it than to say it...
    These pics might make you understand a little better.
    hinge cut (Medium).jpg


    Plus you need to peel off the fine fabric trimming that goes around the edge of the lid so it make opening and closing the lid a smoother process.
    10.
    The next step is drilling the hole in the dash for the pin to sit in. I stuffed mine up big time. The holes were way out and the lid did not sit right.
    So. This is the tricky bit. Making sure the hole you will drill in the dash is at the right spot. You should have the mark on the dash you made when lining up the lid. Note how deep back you need to drill. Too far out and the lid will sit out, too far in and the lid won't shut, too far up or down and its time to take a break and drink more beer
    Anyhow my holes went from pin size to finger size, on BOTH sides. I still don't know how I managed to get it wrong but I had the magic putty and that fixes anything. This stuff once kneeded turns rock hard and can be drilled, tapped etc etc. So I stuffed the holes with it, made it nice, put my lid in, sat it right and pushed the pins into the putty to make the correct holes.
    WICKED!!!!
    hinge (Medium).jpg
    11.

    Cut all the plastic mounting posts off except for the one in the top middle as you need something to mount the plate for the magnetic latch too. I also got rid of the ribs in the lid aswell.
    The bottom edge nearest the hinge I trimmed it down as I though when I carpet it, it might interfere with the glove box. So I took around 5mm off it, then I eventually decided to make it flush with the rim of the entire lid.
    lid sanded 1 (Medium).jpg

    12.

    Fit up the lid after everytime you do the next bit. Just to make sure... When your confident, glue the second hinge in...
    fitting 1 (Medium).jpg

    13.

    Now it was time to make the extension straps. This plastic covered wire trace I got from the local fishing store was a treat. I could cut it to any length and all I had to do to make a loop on the end was, loop it over, give a it few twists then heat it with a lighter and your done!!! So simple, and strong too.
    I simply attached the wire to the inside of the box using a small screw and washer. I then got the lid at the level I wanted, pre-drilled tiny pilot holes on the inside lip of the lid and used tiny tiny screws with tiny washers on them with a little glue. Just to make sure they wont come out.

    Note : If your a computer nerd like me and have oodles of computer parts everywhere, now is you time to shine and rummage through all you parts for tiny washers and screws

    14.
    Carpet time. Simply make a trace of the base of the lid, copy it onto the carpet and cut away. Make note of where the screw mount is on the lid and make a small slice there and cut a small section out of the carpet so when you fit it, it sits neatly around that mount.
    Now glue that mother in!!! Do the same for all the side of the lid. Make it look spesh!!! Can you tell I'm tire of typing yet?

    15. Pay attention to this part.
    Mount the spring loaded magnetic catch to the top under side of the box.
    The next tricky bit is making sure the mounting plate on the lid will side true with the catch. Too high and it will hit the edge of the box when you try to close it, too low AND at the wrong angle and the magnet wont hold onto the lid. This part really did my head in. As the first way looked real neat. All you could see was a nice chrome plate on the lid. But I eventually found out it was hitting the lip of the box and wasn't closing.
    So I went out and bought another magnetic catch. Picture on first page. I only used the magnetic plate of this as it also had a magnet to make the catch stronger plus it kind of rocked on a pic type thing so if the angle of the two pieces meeting was not quite right it would just move to the right angle. Ya get it? Huh..... A lot of trial and error was had here and nearly 8 stubbies in one sitting just to nut it out.
    Also what I did was trim more off the top lip (closest to the lid catch plate) down a few mm. Because being a push to release type catch I wanted the lid to sit as flush as I could to thew dash when closed, so a bit had to be trimmed to give the extra movement when you pushed on the lid to open it.
    Now with all this trimming on the lid, you can see the white edges. What I have done for now it used a black marker pen and coloured it all in. I will trim it with some very small and then fabric to make it neat.

    16. Finito!!!

    First pic is it basically finished but with the different, better looking catch. Second pic it the final design of the catch that works good.
    finished (Medium).jpg
    catch (Medium).jpg

    and closed...Still about 1mm out but I am happy with the outcome.
    finished 2 (Medium).jpg
    I do recommend if you want to is to put a small barrier along the front of the box, doesn't need to be high, just so anything you put in there doesn't push on the lid and pop it open. Thats the next bit for me.
    Also if I was to do it again I would design the box so that the magnetic catch was flush with the box, not hanging down. But MEH! NEXT TIME!

    Thank you for reading and trying to understand my dribble.
    Last edited by mudski; 27th July 2016 at 04:45 PM.

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    Thanks mark! Ill be starting this on Saturday! Great write up! Much appreciated!

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    Reserved............for nothing.
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    No! My Awesomeness!!!!
    Last edited by mudski; 14th May 2013 at 10:00 PM.

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    Travelling Podologist Cuppa's Avatar
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    Great stuff Mudski, just what I needed.



    Cuppa
    Last edited by Cuppa; 15th May 2013 at 09:20 AM.

    2006 4.2TDi ex-Telstra Remote area Camper. 425w roof mounted solar, 360Ah Aux batts, BCDC1240, Onboard hot & cold pressurised & filtered water, (25 litre hot water calorifier), ARB fridge, ARB freezer, Built in kitchen, 240v, 3 Genie exhaust + dynotune, 2 lift, Lovells GVM upgrade, ROH Blaktrak steel wheels, Bridgestone D697s, Redarc gauges/pillarpod, Hema HX-1, CB, dual rear view cameras, Onboard 30amp Victron mains charger, second glovebox, dual seat conversion, Tyredog TPMS, Boss PX7 onboard air with 9 litre tank, 350w inverter, Steel bullbar, Harrop Eaton diff lock (front), Warn winch, Snorkel, Dual spares , 160 litre water tank, 2010 Tvan Tanami. (incl another 70 litre water tank) with matching wheels/tyres (& 3rd spare)
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    Hardcore 04OFF's Avatar
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    Great, all finished, but what do i do with this airbag thingy that was in the way ?








    Ha-ha, just remember you need to have a GU "without" a passenger side airbag to do this mod.

    Seriously tho, one of the best write ups with instructions/pics ive seen for this mate, i already used the space to put my sub amp up behind there, so i can't actually do this great mod, but at least the space has not been wasted i guess.
    <a href=http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j320/02ard/PatrolcomAvatar-1-1.jpg target=_blank>http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j3...Avatar-1-1.jpg</a>

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    looks great
    01 gu td4.2t wagon factory turbo 2" lift, 3" exhaust,snorkel,awning,uhf,egt & boost gauges,16"black round hole dynamic rims with 285 bighorns with more to come, ,air compressor,rear led work lights,winch, ready to fit up

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    Top post Mark! Looks bloody great. Thanks now you've sparked my interest in doing this again.
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    Yeah! I'm already thinking of making it again but different. The hard bits are done. Five minutes and I can remove the box. But I have other things that need to be attended too first.

  16. #10
    Patrol God threedogs's Avatar
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    I missed it could you start again please, after OK lol
    Nah great Mod Mudski
    04 ST 3lt auto, not enough Mods to keep me happy, but getting there

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