Turbo insulation

[Ben-e-boy]

Hmmmm still Garrett based on a 2871.
Billet 71mm compressor wheel with extended tip, normal 6x6 blade configuration not full blade style.
Modified 53.9mm (standard GT28) turbine wheel.
Hopefully gain about 2-400rpm in spool and about 10-15% in airflow.
Hopefully have 30-35psi by 2000rpm, and pull like a 14yr old from 1400rpm instead of the 1700rpm now that it really gets into it, that's the goal anyway.
Not chasing HP really just torque, but if it makes a extra 20hp to give me 300rwhp, happy days.
750nm+ is the goal really.
Fingers crossed.

Marty

Nice. I have just ordered a 18g from UFI.
I would also like those torque fiqures. I have been hearing more about blokes snapping cranks when they are making those kind of torque fiqures. Do you know of any other stories of this happening?

Benny

[Bambill]

I know of 3 cranks breaking.
At this stage I'm not to concerned about it really, I have a feeling driving style may have contributed to 2 of them and the other was a earlier non factory turbo engine.
2 were with less power than mine has been making for the last 100k km.
I am sure there are others out there that have broken though.
Going to try aluminium flywheel to drop a bit of weight from the end of the crank (7-8kg), need to look into a few other ideas also, but touch wood, it will survive.
Never know untill you try these things.

Marty

[Ben-e-boy]

I know of 3 cranks breaking.
At this stage I'm not to concerned about it really, I have a feeling driving style may have contributed to 2 of them and the other was a earlier non factory turbo engine.
2 were with less power than mine has been making for the last 100k km.
I am sure there are others out there that have broken though.
Going to try aluminium flywheel to drop a bit of weight from the end of the crank (7-8kg), need to look into a few other ideas also, but touch wood, it will survive.
Never know untill you try these things.

Marty

I do agree with the driving style factor, I was chatting to UFI yesterday and he did say dont just drop the clutch at 4000rpm which I dont or have any plans of doing, lol.
where I get my work done there have been plenty of 280hp rigs come out of that workshop havnt heard of them breaking cranks. I'm just keen to find out more about the factors behind these failures. and try to avoid it with still utilizing the power and torque it will have

with the aluminium crank, besides the obvious weight difference, would it make any other inprovments? engine responce?

Benny

[Alitis007]

From my experience lightened flywheels help the motor accelerate faster but de accelerate slower, engine response is a touch better but drivability changes a bit as well coz you loose some low end performance. Thats what i have found on my rotor not sure how it affects diesels but my original flywheel weighed around 10 kg and my new chrome molly one with a counter balance weight is around 3kg.

[Bambill]

I did run a 11.5kg twin plate for a while which is 16.5kg lighter than the standard flywheel and clutch and it was great,
Except for the noise being solid clutch plate.
Drivability not a issue.

Marty

[Alitis007]

Cushion button with a 1 ton pressure plate, FUN!! But not in bumper to bumper traffic lol. Twin plate clutch is just more surface area for the friction material and doesn't really affect the flywheels performance as such. Heres a little test to do and let me know, idle the car in neutral and look at the revs then press the clutch and look at the change in revs, shouldn't be much just around 50 - 100 rpm you should hear it before you see it. That will show you how much play is on your thrust bearings on the crankshaft and how much the lightened flywheel will affect the motors balance.