GQ Head Cracks?

[dom14]

Sorry for my English.

Where?! What English?! I thought this is a German forum

[BigRAWesty]

Sorry for my English.

Lol. I figured it was something like that..

Kallen Westbrook
Owner of
Westy's Accessories

[PowerSlide Racing]

Got it all back together over the weekend, torquing those headbolts is quite a workout! After adjusting the tappets it idled properly and a few laps around the block it seems to be running fine. The residual milky oil is a small concern I hope that's all it is and not that the problem isnt solved. I wont really know till its been driven for a week or so. At the moment the oil on the dipstick is milky still.

[Parksy]

I'd drain the oil, chuck some cheap stuff in with oil flush additive and idle it for 30 mins, giving the odd burst of 1500rpm every so often, then drain and chuck some good oil in and a new filter.

[Alitis007]

I'd drain the oil, chuck some cheap stuff in with oil flush additive and idle it for 30 mins, giving the odd burst of 1500rpm every so often, then drain and chuck some good oil in and a new filter.

I wouldn't rev the motor with a flush treatment in it coz you can spin bearings !!

[Parksy]

Chances are when you start a cold engine it will fast idle at around 1500 rpm. So long as no load is placed on the engine there won't be any dramas.

[PowerSlide Racing]

I put in half good oil then half cheap oil after i realised one 5 litre bottle aint enough! I also changed the filter so will wait and see what the oil looks like after a week.

[PowerSlide Racing]

300k's and its clear theres no more water issues. It does have an occasional misfire which I'm certain is ignition related as it happens on gas and petrol. Coil and ballast resistor appear to be recently new (kinda surprised a '93 model car with electronic ignition still has a ballast resistor?) so will try a fresh set of plugs.

[Dales300exc]

And not to mention piston rings giving away after few thousand kilometers of the job.
RB30 s usually have a good bottom end, if it's been looked after. I'm not sure about TB and TDs.
Correct thing to do with any car over 300k is to built the bottom end as well. But, that'd cost whole lot of dough obviously.

I have a question if you guys don't mind(with the OPs permission)
Is it possible to rebuid the bottom end while the head is still attached to the car? For example in a GQ RB30, you can easily remove the oil pan to access the crank. Can the honing and replacing rings, bearings, pistons can be done that way by accessing it from the bottom, without pulling the head or the engine out?!

Simple answer is with the head on. No.

With the head off. Yes.

But any crank machining or bore work would require engine removal.

[Robo]

300k's and its clear theres no more water issues. It does have an occasional misfire which I'm certain is ignition related as it happens on gas and petrol. Coil and ballast resistor appear to be recently new (kinda surprised a '93 model car with electronic ignition still has a ballast resistor?) so will try a fresh set of plugs.

Last year when I replaced the timing gear on sons maverick I replaced the top bearing and seal in the distributor also.
This took alot of the sideways play from dizzy shaft, basically does not miss any more.
He told me a while back his 4x4 mates have commented how well it starts and runs, for a tb42 with points ign with NO electronic ign.
I to am surprised at the results how well it runs for a lpg petrol set up.

I to are about to replace the same parts so I'll give some details when I know more
getting the pin from drive gear is the hard bit as the ends are riveted over, it takes alot of effort to get it out without damage to pin.
doing the work removed 80% off the play so not a bad result.
I'd really like to also replace the bush bearing at bottom, but local bearing shop dose not carry many bush type only needle.
more investigation on that I think, also its a steel type bush not bronze.
cheers